Steps in Getting Dressed--Underwear, 1910s


Figure 1.-- John who was 12 years old wears a sleeveless waist union suit with short legs. Union suits were the most common type of underwear for children. There were undershirts and ankle-length drawers, but union suits were still more common. The illustrations for both Tom and John have waist union suits that are above-the-knee length. Later (by the late 1930s) waist union suits were made in very brief styles with legs like modern Jockey briefs.

Union suits were still the main underwear style for both girls and boys during the 1910s although separate undershirts and ankle-length drawers were an alternative. The union suit is a close-fitting underwear garment. The term union refers to the fact that it involves the combination of both a shirt and pants (drawers) in a combined one-piece suit. The garment commonly included a drop seat with buttons for closing. Many union suits were ankle length, but some models had legs that just covered the knees or came to various lengths above the knees. I think the ankle-length type was more popular. But union suits were much more common than two-piece long underwear for several reasons: (1) they were cheaper (only one garment to buy); (2) there was no bunching up at the waist with more than one layer unless the boy wore a separate underwaist on top of the union suit; (3) union suits could eliminate the waist by having waist buttons and garter tabs already built in (these were called waist union suits). Waist union suits were made in ages up to 13 and sometimes even 14. Regular untaped union suits were for any age boy and were essentially the same as what father wore. Garter waists and underwaists were available in sizes up to 12, but some garter waists were for boys as old as 14. Here are the details on the individual boys. All of the Marshall children would have worn essentially the same style--most likely union suits. There were slight differences for younger children. There were also seasonal differences. Boys and girls wore very similar styles.

Union Suits

Union suits were still the main underwear style for both girls and boys during the 1910s although separate undershirts and ankle-length drawers were an alternative. The union suit is a close-fitting underwear garment. The term union refers to the fact that it involves the combination of both a shirt and pants (drawers) in a combined one-piece suit. The garment commonly included a drop seat with buttons for closing. Boys' union suits and waist union suits were sometimes made with long sleeves for winter, with short sleeves for any season, and without sleeves (for summer). So there was variety of both sleeve length and leg length. Many union suits were ankle length, but some models had legs that just covered the knees or came to various lengths above the knees. I think the ankle-length type was more popular. But union suits were much more common than two-piece long underwear for several reasons: (1) they were cheaper (only one garment to buy); (2) there was no bunching up at the waist with more than one layer unless the boy wore a separate underwaist on top of the union suit; (3) union suits could eliminate the waist by having waist buttons and garter tabs already built in (these were called waist union suits). Waist union suits were made in ages up to 13 and sometimes even 14. Regular untaped union suits were for any age boy and were essentially the same as what father wore. Garter waists and underwaists were available in sizes up to 12, but some garter waists were for boys as old as 14. There was a choice of short or long sleeves and a choice of length for the pants. This was necessary because some of the popular summer fashions for the younger boys were garments like rompers, tunics or knee pants which were often worn with socks during the summer. Long-leg union suits would have been unsighly with bare legs. Another choice was whether the legs of the knee-length pants were close-fitting or loose. The wrists of all long-sleeve union suits were knitted elastically (like modern sweatshirts or sweaters).

Individuals

Here are the details on the individual boys. All of the Marshall children would have worn essentially the same style--most likely union suits. There were slight differences for younger children. There were also seasonal differences. Boys and girls wore very similar styles.

Tom

Tom who is 4 years old wears a light grey summer-weight waist union suit made of nainsook material. The waist union suit was both underwear and a support garment for outer clothes. The garment has loosely fitting open legs. The extra buttons on the shoulder straps allow for Tom's growth and also make it easier to put the underwear on. The union suit buttoning was a little different for the younger children. Notice also the buttons under each arm that allow him to step into the suit more easily. Like all waist union suits, this underwear serves also as an underwaist. With a regular union suit, children might have to wear extra support garments like an underwaist. It has reinforcement taping over the shoulders to support the weight of Tom's button-on outer clothing plus garter tabs with two metal eyelets for attaching hose supporters. Long stockings were very common for children in the 1910s. A boy Tom's age might wear three-qurter socks, usually white. We picture tom wearing three-quarter socks most of the time during the summer months. This was most common during the summer. Boys also commonly wore long stockings. Black were especially common, but little boys like Tom might wear white long stockings. Waist union suits could help hold up his stockings.

Carl

Carl who is 7 years and has begun school old wears a standard union suit, the one piece underwear that was so common in the late 19th and early 20th century. Carl's union suit has a roounded collar. It buttons up the front, ending with a collar button. The version here is a summer suit. It would have been made in cotton with short sleeves and short legs. Notice the ribbing at the sleeve and leg cuffs. He would have had long sleeves and long legs for winter wear. The short legs were convenient for wearing with long stockings and knickers which were standard for American boys in the 1910s. The cream color was standard for union suits. Notice that this suit does not have tabs are buttons for holding up pants or stockings. Boys Carl's age might wear socks during the summer. Somewhat older boys were likely to wear long stockings even in warm summer eather. He may have worn a button-on suit with socks and thus did not need anything to hold up other gaments. If he needed buttons for other garments he would have had to put on an underwaist or some kind of hose supporter.

John

John who was 12 years old wears a sleeveless waist union suit with short legs. Union suits were the most common type of underwear for children. There were undershirts and ankle-length drawers, but union suits were still more common. I'm not sure how the use of these separate garments varied by age. The ankle length legs were common because boys John's age wore knickers and knickers wih long-leg union suits could look unsightly, although they were worn in really cold weather. Also some boys went barefoot and it would look unsightly to wear long-leg union suits with knickers or knee pants. The sleveless top is a summer style. John's suit buttoned up the front. Note the tapes or reinforcement straps running down from the shoulders and arm hole. These were to support hose supporters and trousers. Mothers could sew buttons on these tape and they would wear better than if sewn on the fabric which was much weaker. There are also loops over each hip so that hose supporters for long stockings can be fastened on by means of safety-pins. Younger boys might wear socks during the summer, but boys 12 or 13 years old would be expected to wear stockings even during the summer. Long black stockings were very common in the 1910s for both boys and girls. Boys a little older than John. would wear unionsuits without these tapes. This is because they would wear long trousers or separate skeleton waists. John's unionsuit has were rather close-fitting. Others had a loose fit. As it is a summer suit, it is done in a light-weight cotton knit. There is a three-button drop seat in the rear.







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Created: 11:12 PM 5/5/2007
Last updated: 8:46 PM 9/6/2007