Figure 1.--This Buck's Feels Well waist was patented in 1895 and immediately advertised in the 'Ladies Home Journal'. The ad here pointed to three reasons the waist was more healthful and compfortable than other waists on ther market at the time. |
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We see quite a few adverisements for Buck's Feels Well waist in the late-1890s. The company patented it in 1895 and immediately advertised in the Ladies Home Journal, the major mass publication magazine reaching American homes.
The ad here pointed to three reasons the waist was more healthful and compfortable than other waists on ther market at the time. Feelswell Waists were made by George N. Buck Manufacturing, Matoon, Illinois. We note the ad in the Journal (July 1895, page 21). We do not know much about the company yet, but it may have been the forerunner of the Kern Manufacturing Co since it is also in Mattoon (a very small town). After the turn of the 20th century we do not see many references to the company or the Feelswell Waists.
This Buck's Feels Well waist was patented in 1895 and immediately advertised in the Ladies Home Journal.
(July, 1895, page 21). One of the interesting features of this ad is the cultural and educational level to which it is pitched. It uses words that only educated readers would understand (e.g. "obviated" and "oscillates"). If this ad had appeared, let us say, in the Sears or Ward's catalogues, such vocabulary would probably have been avoided. The Ladies Home Journal was aimed at middle-class mothers, perhaps even
upper-middle-class women. It is not thast long stockings were just worn by children from well-to-do families, they were worn across class lines in the 1890s, although boys from working-class families bergan working and wearing long psnts st an earlier age. (Long stockings were more likely worn with knee pants.) It is just that the company was making a pitch for the affluent trade. July of course was a summer month, but by rnd of the month mothers were beginning to think about outfitting their children for the upcoming school year. The company also adverised widely in newpapers. An example at about the same time is an adverisement for the Fells Well waist placed in the Waterloo Daily Courier of Waterloo, Iowa (October 8, 1896, page 5), although in somewhat less
pretentious terms. Note the date. Unlike a magazine like the Journal which may lsy around the house for a month or two, newspapers were pershiable. Thus the Courier ad was placed as the weather was getting cold and the long stockings were needed.
As the oldest still publishing, most respected women's service magazine in the country, The Ladies' Home Journal has always focused on issues of crucial importance to millions of women. Since its first issue in December 1883. This long history make The Ladies Home Journal and invaluable source of information on American fashion trends. Its covered an incredibly wide range of topics beyond just fashion, from the latest medical research and consumer news to parenting know-how, workplace survival, good skincare, nutrition facts and much, much more. It was The Ladies Home Journal who sucessfully merged the elements and produced the right formula, becoming the top ladies magazine in America. The Ladies' Home Journal both empowered women and applauded their growing power. We also notice patterns offered in the magazine.
Feelswell Waists were made by George N. Buck Manufacturing, Matoon, Illinois. We do not know much about the company yet, but it may have been the forerunner of the Kern Manufacturing Co since it is also in Mattoon (a very small town). After the turn of the 20th century we do not see many references to the Feelswell Waists. The company claimed it was superior to other waists on the market at the time. The George N. Buck Company, in Mattoon, Illinois, for which the waist is named, may well have been a predecessor (or possibly competitor) of the Kerns Manufacturing Company which also manufactured hose supporters and children's garter waists in the same town. The Buck firm apparently went out of business before 1910, but the Kerns firm was still manufacturing Kern's supporters and garter waists at least as late as World War II. The Kerns Company made such products for Sears Roebuck in the 1940s. Sears advertised models such as "Kern's Daisy", "Kern's Sateen Button-on Garter Waist," and "Kern's Dandy" in 1939-40.
The 1895 Ladies Home Journl ad here pointed to three reasons the waist was more healthful and compfortable than other waists on ther market at the time (figure 1). The ad copy read,"Three Points In Favor of the Health and Comfort-Giving "Feels Well" Waist Over Any similar Garment. 1st. While it is suspended from the shoulders, the dead weight and constant pull is obviated by reason of the straps at the back, through which the body oscillates. 2nd. A little Abdominal Supporter in the centre of the waist-band in front, with adjusting straps on each side, enables the waist to be made larger
or smaller without changing position of the buttons on the waist-band. The waist-band is a gored belt, form-fitting, impossible to cut the flesh or bind the wearer in any way. 3rd. The waist-band can be raised or lowered to suit the waist line by adjusting buckles on the shoulder straps. All adjustments are in front. Any child can take the "Feels Well" off and on in a moment. The "Keystone" Clasp [on the hose supporters] is the easiest to fasten and unfasten. The strain is
distributed over the bottom and sides of Clasp, so it is impossible to tear or wear holes in the hose. Made of best material in White, Black, Slate. If not found with your dealer, will be mailed upon receipt of price. Address: Geo N. Buck Manufacturing Co., Mattoon, Ill. Buck's "Feels Well" Waist and Hose Supporter, Pat. April 2, 1895. Child's 75 cents, 2 to 12 years. Ladies' 32 to 40 inch bust measure.$1.00. Send for Illustrated Catalogue."
This Bucks ad is reliably dated to 1895 although we don't know the source of the ad. It was probably a magazine, perhaps the Ladies Home Journal. The description of the waist's features is quite elaborate, almost scientific, and appeals to the buyer's concern for the child's health as well as for the practical features of a supporter for long stockings which all American children wore in 1895. The waist was sold in sizes to fit boys and girls from
two to twelve and also for ladies with bust measurements from 32 to 40 inches. The illustrations show the waist from both back and front, identical for boys (right figure) and girls (left figure). Notice that long underwear is assumed in both cases and that long stockings are shown in black (the most common color for both boys and girls in 1895). The construction of the waist with shoulder straps that cross in back like suspenders, with a cross strap across the chest to keep the straps from slipping, and double-pendant supporters at the sides over the hips seems to anticipate the famous "Dr. Parker" garter waist which continued to be a household name and style up through the 1940s. The idea of making a garter waist with "health" features as in the case of the Dr. Parker waist seems to be quite old, going back at least into the late 19th century.
There were some innovative features such as extra abdominal support, a new way of adjusting the size of the waist belt, and a new kind of clasp on the hose supporters. But for some reason the waist did not become very popular or much used. We are not sure why. They had a lot of competition of course. Perhaps the promotion of this product was
ineffective (very few ads appeared for it), and the llustration looks quite complicated in spite of claims to the contrary. Most boys would have preffered something a lot simpler, I imagine. The Dr. Parker waist, which came along about a decade later, had the same basic function, a similar design, and was extremely popular--much simpler to
wear, lighter in weight, and very widely advertised. Versions of this were sold everywhere up until the middle 1940s in both Canada and America. A reader writes, "I wore a Dr. Parker waist myself in the 1930s and it was not hot
or irritating to wear."
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