American Support Garments: Ideal Waists (1904)


Figure 1.--An advertisement for Ideal Waists in the 'Ladies Home Journal' (October, 1904) (page 62) explains a feature we have not adequately addressed before--'removable elastic suspenders'. Ideal was a major brand of children's waists iduring the first 20 years of the century. We see many advertisements in local newspapers. But this is the first illustration we've come across.

We note advertisement for Ideal Waists in the magazines. We note features that we have not adequately addressed before such as removable elastic suspenders". Ideal was an important brand. The manufacturer was the Lay & Way Co. on Bleecker St. in New York City. We note advertisements in the Ladies Home Journal that illustrated two different modeld of Ideal waists.

Lay & Way Co.

The Lay & Way Co. had offices on Bleecker St. in New York City. We do not have a detailed history of the company, but know it was active in the 1900s and placing advertisements in major magazines, suggesting that it was an important manufacturer. It manufactured a range of corsets and related items like childreb's waists and stocking supporters. It was a member od the Corset Manufacturers' Association of the United States. The Association presented data to Congress on tariffs in 1908. According to the Association, Corset manufacturers in Rurope were paying wages one-third of what American manufactuers paid. [Corset Manufacturers, pp. 4730-32.] We were surprised that there was such a disparity in American and European salaries. We are unsure just how accurate tge Assiciaion's dataas. The company files anumber of patents. There most important brand was the "Double Ve" corset. Another important brand was Ideal which offered children's waists.

Ladies Home Journal

As the oldest still publishing, most respected women's service magazine in the country, The Ladies' Home Journal has always focused on issues of crucial importance to millions of women. Since its first issue in December 1883. This long history make The Ladies Home Journal and invaluable source of information on American fashion trends. Its covered an incredibly wide range of topics beyond just fashion, from the latest medical research and consumer news to parenting know-how, workplace survival, good skincare, nutrition facts and much, much more. It was The Ladies Home Journal who sucessfully merged the elements and produced the right formula, becoming the top ladies magazine in America. The Ladies' Home Journal both empowered women and applauded their growing power. We also notice patterns offered in the magazine.

Stocking Supporters

The boys and girls wearing long stockings in the second half of the 19th Century held them up with various styles of stocking supporters. I believe that boys did not wear these supporters commonly in the first half of the 19th Century because kneepants were not nearly as common. Boys wearing long trousers did not commonly wear stocking supporters. It was not until the 1870s when kneepants became more commonly worn that stocking supporters became widely worn. Both boys and girls wore them. They were several different styles, including over the shoulder and waist styles. They were not very comfortable especially for boys involved in strenous outdoor activities. Notably Lord Baden Powell when he designed the first Boy Scout uniform chose kneesocks so cumbersome stocking supporters would not be necessary.

Figure 2.--This is another model of the Ideal waist. This one is a different model, designed, I think, for warmer weather since it is skeleton model with only straps and has no body (like the conventional underwaist). It's also designed specifically for boys.

Two Waist Styles

Lay & Way manufactured a range of support garments under its Ideal brand. This included underwaista and corset waists. for babies, girls, boys, misses, and ladies. The term corset waist was not used with same meaning by all manufacturers, but usuakly mean a waist that had some degree of posture control.

Underwaist

An advertisement for Ideal Waists in the Ladies Home Journal (October, 1904) (page 62) explains a feature we have not adequately addressed before--"removable elastic suspenders". Ideal was a major brand of children's waists iduring the first 20 years of the century. We see many advertisements in local newspapers. But this is the first illustration we've come across. "Ideal Underwaists and Corset Waists for Babies, Girls, Boys, Misses and Ladies. 25 cents to $1.00. Of all Leading Dealers. The Buttons Won't Come Off. They're attached by double tape and stand the hardest tug. The Eyelet-Tabs for Hose Supporters Won't Rip Out. Style 555 (illustrated) is a boy's perfect waist. Made in sizes from 2 1/2 to 12 years, of fine coutil, with removable elastic suspenders for trousers, and detachable hose supporters. By use of adjustable shoulder straps the waist can be made desired length. Price 50 cents. Ask your dealer to show you this garment. If he can't supply you, send age of your boy and 50 cents, and we will supply you direct, charges prepaid. Look for this trade-mark, woven in red on all our waists. You will find them satisfactory and as represented. Try them and be convinced. Send for our handsomely illustrated catalogue. It's free. The Lay & Way Co., 54 Bleeker St., N. Y."

Skeleton waist

This is another model of the Ideal waist. This one is a different model, designed, I think, for warmer weather since it is skeleton model with only straps and has no body (like the conventional underwaist). It's also designed specifically for boys. "Ideal Underwaists and Corset Waists For Babies, Girls, Boys, Misses and Ladies, 25 cents to $1.00. Of all Leading Dealers. The Buttons won't Come off. They're attached by double tape and stand the hardest tug. The Eyelet-Tabs for Hose Supporters won't Rip Out. Style 205 (Illustrated). Combination Suspender and Underwaist for boys, 2 1/2 to 12 years. Detachable hose supporters. Elastic in back to relieve strain. This garment has double taped buttons, for drawers and trousers. Price 50 Cents. Ask your dearler to show you this garment. If he can't supply you, send age of your boy and 50 cents, and we will supply you direct, charges prepaid. Look for this trade-mark, woven in red on all our waists. It means that you are getting the best waists, because they are well made, of the finest material, and all sizes are scaled right. Try them and be convinced. Send for our handsomely illustrated catalogue. It's free. The Lay & Way Co., 56 Bleeker St., N.Y."

Eyelet Garter Attachments

Notice that both of these waists have eyelet tabs for attaching the garters that held up long stockings. There were several methods of attaching the garters. Eyelets were just one option. The eyeleted garter tabs were designed to hold the safety pin of the hose supporter. A little tape tab was sewn onto the gartment and made of flexible but sturdy material. The tab had two spaced holes or eyelets piercing the tab through which the garter safety pin passed to hold the hose supporter firmly in place. Usually the holes were made with metal surrounds or lining so that the safety pin would not tear the fabric of the tab. These eyelets were made like the eyelets in lace-up shoes through which the shoe strings of modern shoes are passed. Similar eyelets were used in the lacing up of women's corset

Seasonality

The two styles of waists, advertised separately in different issues of the Ladies Home Journal (May and October), illustrate a seasonal preference, perhaps, although both styles could be worn at any season and were readily available all year long.

Sources

Corset Manufacturers of the United States, "Corsets: The Corset Manufactures of the United States asks adequate protection," Hearings Vol. 17, U.S. Congress, House. 60th Congress, 2nd session, 1908-09.






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Created: 10:34 PM 9/23/2009
Last updated: 11:56 PM 1/19/2010