Vintage American Velvet Sailor Suit (1890s?)


Figure 1.--Here is the sailor top. Noticev thevMarshall Fiekds label. Also notice how the sailor scarfe ties.btheir is a slot on each side of the jacket for it. Click on the image for a back view

The sailor suit was a very flexible styles in that they were also acceptable for dressier occassions. Other sailot suits were made expressedly for more formal occassions. We note, for example, this velvet sailor suit which would have been a dress up garment. We are not entirely sure how to date it. We think it might be from the 1890s, but the 1900s is also possible. The suit was made in thick rich burgundy velvet. This suit consists of the sailor top, the dickey, and the matching kneepants. The dickey had embroidered detailing and was doine in the same burgandy velvet fabric. Often the dickey was done in a contrasting mazterial. All pieces are from the same matching outfit. The boy who war this suit apparently came from Maine. This was a quality piece in its day. It has a Marshall Field & Co. Label. The top measures 12" from shoulder to shoulder and chest is 30". Length is 23". Knee length pants have a 26" waist and 28" hip. Length is 18".

Conventions

The sailor suit was a very flexible styles in that they were also acceptable for dressier occassions. Other sailot suits were made expressedly for more formal occassions. We note, for example, this velvet sailor suit which would have been a dress up garment.

Marshall Fields

The suit has a Marshall Field & Co. label. The Marshal Fields Department Store in Chicago was named after its founder Marshall Fields (1834-1906). He was one of the great American merchant princes who in his later life became a noted philanthropist. He was a real life Horatio Alger growing up from humble origins. He was born near Conway, Massachusetts. He grew up on a farm. As a young may he went west just before the Civil War (1856). Rather than finding land for farming, he went to the rising mid-Western metroplis--Chicago. He opened a dry goods store. He was a shy man which his first empoyee thought was not the best dispositiion to become a successful retailer. He formed a firm with associates--Field, Palmer, and Leiter. He had bought them out by 1882, changing the name of the firm to Marshall Fields. He managed to survive the financil panic of 1873 and the Great Chicago Fire. Chicago grew into the greates city of the Mid West, becoming a central railroad hub. Fields and other Chicago businesses bebefitted by the growth of Chicago. Rather than meerly becoming a retailer, Field actually began manufacturing merchasndise sold in his store. He opened manufacturing operations both in America and around the world (including Spain, Germany, Italy, Australia, and China). Field would not here of credit and instituted a strict cash only system. Fields became a major force in American retailing. He succeeded in accumulating one of the largest private fortunes in America and played a significant role in developing modern retailing practices.

Chronology

We are not entirely sure how to date the suit here. We think it might be from the 1890s, but the 1900s is also possible. Perhaps the boy's parents purchased iot when they traveled to Chicago for the World's Fair. The button fly rather than a front flap may suggest the 1900s rather than the 1890s.

Material

The suit was made in thick rich burgundy velvet. This alone would have made the garment an expensive item. This was a quality piece in its day.

Garmets

This suit consists of the sailor top, the dickey, and the matching kneepants. All pieces are from the same matching outfit. We do not know what kind of hat may have been worn with it. Most of these suits did not have matching hats or caps. The top (I'm not sure what to call it) because it is a sailor top has a back flap with beautifully embroidered anchors. The dickey had embroidered detailing and was done in the same burgandy velvet fabric. Often the dickey was done in a contrasting mazterial. Note the dickey has button holes. There would have been byttons on the inside of the sailor top that it buttoned on to. It seems like it would be difficult to put on the dickey by himself. The suit had straight-leg kneepants. It has a button flap and three large buttons at the leg hem. In America these straight leg kneepoants were more popular than knickers for sailor suits.

The Boy

The boy who war this suit apparently came from Maine. Unfortunatele know nothing about him and his family. I'm not sure how old he would have neem. I suspect about 8 years old. Perhaps someone wiyj know the chest/waist age equivalents.

Size

The top measures 12" from shoulder to shoulder and chest is 30". Length is 23". Knee length pants have a 26" waist and 28" hip. Length is 18".









HBC




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Created: 2:16 AM 9/13/2005
Last updated: 2:16 AM 9/13/2005