Corduroy Wales


Figure 1.--English schools varied not only as to the color, but also the wales in their school uniform jackets and trousers.

"Wales" are the vertical ribs in woven cloth. The term is also used to describe the texture or weave of a fabric. The wales are particularly notable in corduroy fabric. Corduroy "wales" are an especially important aspect of the fabric. Wales are an aspect of quality, but they are also an aspect of fashion which has changed over time. The wales of cotton fabric are affected to some extent by the garment involved. HBC has noted corduroy shirts with relatively narrow wales, normally 18 or higher. Corduroy has, nowever, been more commonly used for pants than shirts. Wider wales are more common for jackets and pants. The ribbage per inch could vary from 1.5 to 21, although perhaps 4-18 is more common. The traditional "standard" falls somewhere between 10 and 12. Less than 4 wales to the inch would shade into the shaggy "jumbo cord" popular around 1970. The especially narrow wales are not as heavy wearing and, as one of our HBC contributors reports, "more than 18 would not support a sufficiently solid, boy-proof base".

Definition

"Wales" are the vertical ribs in woven cloth. The term is also used to describe the texture or weave of a fabric. The wales are particularly notable in almost all corduroy fabric.

Etimology

The term "wales" is believed to have come from the Anglo-Saxon "walu" meaning to flail with stripes.

Technology

We do not yet have any technical information about the wales. Obviously the wales result from the weaving method. We do not know precisely why corduroy had wales and why they are not present in other fabrics. Also we are mnot sure if there were any practical consequences to the wales. One HBC reader wonders if the wales had anything to do with why his cord shorts froze stiff in winter if left out over night on the clothes line. Hopefully HBC readers will have some insights on this.


Figure 1.--This school selected a fairly low wale number. It looks to be about 10 or perhaps slightly lower.

Aspects

Corduroy "wales" are an especially important aspect of the fabric. Wales affect are an aspect of quality, but they are also an aspect of fashion which has changed over time.

Ranges

HBC has noted corduroy wales ranging from 1.5 to 21. The low number are referred to as wide wales and the higher numbers as as fine or pinwales. Some companies have advetized ribless corduroys, but the vast majority of cord fabrics have destinct wales which in fact is what corduroy is best known. The mid-ranges of wales has been the most commonly worn. There have vaiations over time. The garment also affects the choice of wales. HBC does not yet know if there are country differences involved.

Garments

The wales of cotton fabric are affected to some extent by the garment involved. HBC has noted corduroy shirts with relatively narrow wales, normally 18 or higher. Corduroy has, nowever, been more commonly used for pants than shirts. Wider wales are more common for jackets and pants. The ribbage per inch could vary from 4 to 18, with the traditional "standard" falling somewhere between 10 and 12. Less than four wales to the inch would shade into the shaggy "jumbo cord" popular around 1970. These narrow wales are now as heavy wearing and as one of our HBC contributors reports, "more than 18 would not support a sufficiently solid, boy-proof base".







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Created: November 19, 1998
Last updated: 8:04 PM 7/16/2004