Boys' Duffle Coats: Country Trends


Figure 1.--The French boy models a duffle coat in the Winter 1999-2000 French fashion magazine Bonpoint. Notice that it does not have the characteristic toggles and the red color.

We have only limited informatin on the popularity of the duffle coat in different countries at thus time. The duffle coat seems to have been most widely worn in Britain. British boys began wearing duffle coats after World War I. The beloved child character, Padington Bear, for example, is noted for his duffle coat. It was adopted by some English schools as part of their uniform after World War II, perhaps some before the War but I have no evidence of this yet. Some schools have adopted it as part of the school uniform. It continues to be a popular style among British school children, both boys and girls. It was widely worn in the Netherlands and other European countries it was also widely worn in the United States, although I am not sure about the chronology. It appears to have been a popular style of boys' coat in America during the 1960s and 70s, but has been less common since the 1980s. We have also noted in being worn in France, but do not think it was a major style. We believe that the duffle coat was also widely worn in Canada, but are unsure about its current popularity. The one French image we have shows a younger boy modeling it 1999 and the coat shown does not have the characteristic toggles. Information on many other countries is unavailable at this time. We do not know, for example to what extent duffle coats have been worn in Germany.

Austria

The duffle ciat was worn in Austria stylistic and chronological trends seem similar to those in Germany.

Canada

We believe that the duffle coat was also widely worn in Canada. One reader tells us that the duffle coat was especially popular in Canada during the 1970s. It was worn by both boys and girls. The styles and colors seem similar to those worn by American children at about the same time. We notice mostly beige and dark blue duffle coiats. We are unsure about its current popularity.

England

We have only limited informatin on the popularity of the duffle coat in different countries at thus time. The duffle coat seems to have been most widely worn in Britain. It was characteristically made in a heavy wool. British boys began wearing duffle coats after World War I. The beloved child character, Padington Bear, for example, is noted for his duffle coat. Almost always the duffle coats in England are navy blue or a beige/tan shades. It was adopted by some English schools as part of their uniform after World War II, perhaps some before the War but I have no evidence of this yet. Some schools have adopted it as part of the school uniform. Other schools allowed the children to wear it although it wa not part of the official uniform. These schools might set a standard color. One English reader tells us that as a boy in the 1960s, he much preferred his duffle coat to his school's gabardine overcoat. His mother let him wear the duffle coat in the cold weather, except when it was raining heavy. It continues to be a popular style among British school children, both boys and girls.

France

We have also noted in being worn in France, but do not think it was a major style. French clothing manufacturers, I believe, after World War II, although I have limited chronolgical information, copied the duffle coat style from England. The fact that Field Marshall Montgomery and other British soldiers liberating France wore it may have helped poopularize the style. One source reports that duffle coats were very popular in France during the 1970s. Unlike the English, French duffle coats have not been restricted to muted colors, but were made in several bright colors, including shades in red . I am not sure of tghe fabrics used in France. Many French duffle coats appeared without the wood toggles commonly worn on Britsish duffle coats. The one French image we have shows a younger boy modeling it 1999 and the coat shown does not have the characteristic toggles (figure 1). A HBC reader writes concerning this image, "My wife , looking at the picture tells me that the boy seems wearing tights. If so, the picture could be near from the 1970s or 1980s." [HBC note: Unlike Germany, tights were not very popuklar in France for boys. This image, however, comes a fashion magazine which sometimes pose the children rather imagainatively. The length of the boy's shorts suggest to us that 1999 may be a correct date.]

Germany

Duffle coats were worn in Germany, especially after World War II. We have little information at this time as to how popular duffle coats were in Germany.

Italy

A few years ago the magazine Vogue Bambini had a long piece on what they called "Montgomery" jackets which looked a lot like duffle coats.

(The) Netherlands

The duffle coat or jacket owes its name from a course woolen material made in the Belgian town of Duffel. The duffel coat as we know it today with the hood and wodden toggels owes its popularity to the British Navy which opted it for use during World War II. The duffle coat is known in the Netherlands as "houtjes-touwtjes-jas". It was very popular from the 1950s-80s. During the cold winter months lots of boys wore them. The Dutch name means: a coat (=jas) with bits of wood (=houtjes) and bits of string (=touwtjes). The British have called these "Monteycoats" after Field Marshall Montgomery.

Scotland

We have liitle infornation at this time, but do note that some private schools in Scotland sadopted the duffle coat as part of their school unifoirm.

United States

The duffle coat was also widely worn in the United States, although I am not sure about the chronology. It appears to have been a popular style of boys' coat in America during the 1960s and 70s, but has been less common since the 1980s. We have noted duffle coats primarily in muted colors, similar to thoise worn in England, primarily black, navy blue, and tan.






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Created: July 16, 2003
Last updated: 6:26 PM 7/12/2008