Long Stocking Spporters: 19th Century


Figure 1.--Long stockings became increasing popular in Ameruca sfter the Civil war as knee-length pants became increasingly standardized for boys. This created the need for stiocking supporters to hold up the stockings. These brothers were from Akron, Ohio, but the portrait is undated. We would guess it was taken in the 1890s.

Stocking supporters were not needed by boys in the early 19th Century. Long stockings were not worn by boys in the early 19th Century as long trousers, especially as part of skeketon suits, were commonly worn by boys. Even boys wearing tunics often wore long trousers. Smaller boys before breeching did not need long stockings as they might wear pantalettes with shorter dresses. Pantalettes came in many styles. The plain ones were commonly called drawers, but there were also many very fancy styles. They were very popular and not commonly worn with long stockings. Thus there was relatively little requirement for stocking supporters. Bloomer knickers and kneepants began to appear in stylish boys clothing during the 1850s. Increasing numbers of boys began wearing kneepants in the 1860s, especially the late 1860s. The kneepants were generally cut very long. They were cut so long in fact that long stockings commonly were not needed. Boys began wearing long stockings more commonly as knicker and kneepants became more common and as older boys began wearing them. We have, however, no details on stocking supporters during this period. Stocking supporters became widely worn in the late 19th Century as kneepants became increasing common in the 1870s. This led to a problem. How to hold the stockings up. This was a special problem for active boys. To address this problem, stocking supporters were developed. Knee pants were worn as part of various suit styles, including Faintleroy, sailor, Norfolk, double breasted, single beasted, and other suits. Boys mostly wore long stockings with these kneepants suits. It was not considered proper for boys, except for the very youngest, not to cover their legs. This varied substantially from country to country.

Early 19th Century (1800-40)

Stocking supporters were not needed by boys in the early 19th Century. Long stockings were not worn by boys in the early 19th Century as long trousers, especially as part of skeketon suits, were commonly worn by boys. Even boys wearing tunics often wore long trousers. Smaller boys before breeching did not need long stockings as they might wear pantalettes with shorter dresses. Pantalettes came in many styles. The plain ones were commonly called drawers, but there were also many very fancy styles. They were very popular and not commonly worn with long stockings. Thus there was relatively little requirement for stocking supporters. I am not positive just when long stockings appeared or how widely they were worn in the early 19th Century. Nor am I sure just when the first stocking supporters appeared. Until about 1820 long stockings, to the extent they were worn, were held up by ribbon garters tied around the leg, usually just above the knee. But the first quarter of the 19th century saw the development of the rubber industry, which had a marked effect on clothing because it brought with it a new technique of weaving rubber threads into webbing so as to make elastic for items such as men's and boy's suspenders for trousers as well as elastic bands to be used as garters for stockings. At first the elastic webbing, manufactured initially in England, was used for the wrists of gloves, but it was quickly expanded for other clothing uses. [Lester and Oerke]

Mid 19th Century (1840-70)

Bloomer knickers and kneepants began to appear in stylish boys clothing during the 1850s. Increasing numbers of boys began wearing kneepants in the 1860s, especially the late 1860s. The kneepants were generally cut very long. Boys began wearing long stockings more commonly as knicker and kneepants became more common in the 1870s. Still they were mostly worn by younger boys in the 1870s. They were still noy vety common for teenagers, We have, however, no details on stocking supporters during this period. As far as we can tell, mothers continued to use makeshift arrangements.

Late 19th Century (1870-1900)

Stocking supporters became widely worn in the late 19th Century as kneepants became increasing common in the 1870s. Boys were increasingly wearing them and gradually older boys began wearing them. The increasing use of kneepants and long stockings led to a problem. How to hold the stockings up. This was a special problem for active boys. Make-shift arrangements could work, but there was an increasing demand for a simple device to hold the stockings more securely. This was espedcially true in America where long stockings were particularly prevalent. To address this problem, stocking supporters were developed. As best we can tell the first stocking supporters appeared in America about 1875. European mothers seem more inclined to use make-shift arrangements. Knee pants were worn as part of various suit styles, including Faintleroy, sailor, Norfolk, double breasted, single beasted, and other suits. Boys mostly wore long stockings with these kneepants suits. It was not considered proper for boys, except for the very youngest, not to cover their legs. This varied substantially from country to country. Boys wore long stockings, and thus needed supporters to keep their stockings up, with other styles of clothes. These styles included dresses, smocks, pinafores, kilt suits (but not proper Scottish kilts), tunics, Buster Brown suits, and others.

Sources

Lester, Katherine Morris and Bess Viola Oerke. Accessories of Dresss: An Illustrated History of . . . Frills and Furbelows of Fashion (Peoria, Illinois: Manual Arts Press, 1940).







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Created: 7:13 AM 11/18/20050
Last updated: 7:13 AM 11/18/2005