Boys' Suits: Pants and Trousers Chronology--20th Century


Figure 1.--Here we see two American brothers wearing identical Norfolk suits with knickers. Both Norfolk jackets and knickers werew popular at the time. This photo postcard was sent as a Christmas card. Above the knee knickers were common in America at this time. Notice that the heright of the boy in part reflected how the knickers were worn. Both boys wear their suits with black long stockings. The card has an "Artura" stamp box which dates it to 1910-24. We would guess that the mid- to late-1910s is the most likely date.

Boys by the end of the 19th century were wearing knickers and knepants at knee length or even above the knee. Boys in Europe and America in the early 20th century were commonly wearing kneepants. This included boys in secondary school, although there were variations among countries and social class. These variations were quite pronounced to the extent that boys in unidentified portraits can often be identified as to nationality and social class, something that is very difficult to do today. Straight-leg kneepants were the most commomn type of boys' trosers at the turn of the century. We also see boys wearing knickers which became increasingly popular as the century progressed, escpecially in America. New one-piece styles became popular in the early 20th century like rompers and coveralls. We also see various developments in trouser suspension. Suspenders were still worn, but we see button-on clothes, suspender and bib-front pants, as well as belts. The popularity of these approaches varied over time and among countries. Baden Powell's Boy Scouts helped to populrize short pants after the turn of the century. Youth groups were very popular in the early 20th century and their influence appears to have been important. Short pants by the 1920s had become a major style for boys, especially in Europe. Older boys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. Knickers rapidly disappeared in America, but persisted until after the War in Europe. The increasing popularity of long pants became more pronounced after World War II (1939-45), at first in America and eventually in Europeas well. Short pants begin to become more popular in America dufing the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts and longs became popular. The hosiery worn with these different types of pants also varied over time and among countries.

The 1900s

We note boys wearing kneepants, knickers, short pasnts, long pasnrs, and a variety of one-piece suits like rompers. Most boys in the 1900s wore kneepants or long pants, although knickers were also common. Younger boys might also wear bloomer knickers, often with tunic suits. Boys by the end of the 19th century were wearing knickers and knepants at knee length or even above the knee. Boys in Europe and America in the early 20th century were commonly wearing kneepants. This included boys in secondary school, although there were variations among countries and social class. Straight-leg kneepants were the most commomn, but we also see boys wearing knickers. Knickers were commonly worn in Britain during the late 19th centtury, but they were less common in America. We also see boys wearing knickers which became increasingly popular as the century progressed, escpecially in America. New one-piece styles became popular in the early 20th century like rompers and coveralls. The type and/or length of the pants was often used by parents for ge grading, a very common convention in the 1900s. Shortened-lerngth trousers were commonly worn with long stockings in the 1900s. Accompany garments varied as tyo the age of the boy as well as by country and social class. Black long stockings were very common. They were worn with suits of all colors. Younger boys might wear socks or go barefoot.

The 1910s

Boys in the 1910s throughout Europe and America wore various kinds of shoertened-length pants and trousers. Kneepants were the most common, but began to be replaced with short pants in many countries and knickers in America. By the end of the decade, knickers had become very common in America. A new style became popular for younger boys, romper suits--one piece suits often with puffed pants. Of course World War I occurred in the 1910s. We are not sure at this time just how the War affected fashion. There were substantial differences in pants from country to country. In Germany knee pants had become standard wear for most boys, even teenagers. It is difficult to follow the transition from kneepants to short pants, in part because they are so similar, even short pants were knee-length in the 1910s. Also catalogs and fashion magazines commonly used various terms for the different types of pants. Of course one indicator of kneepants is the ornamental buttons at the leg hem. It is difficult to follow the transition from kneepants to short pants, in part because they are so similar, even short pants were knee-length in the 1910s. Also catalogs and fashion magazines commonly used various terms for the different types of pants. Boys still commonly wore long black stockings in the 1910s. White stockings were commonly worn by girls. Younger boys might wear them fgoe special occassions, often with kneepants.

The 1920s

Boys by the end of the 19th century were wearing knickers and knepants at knee length or even above the knee. Boys in Europe and America in the early 20th century were commonly wearing kneepants. This included boys in secondary school, although there were variations among countries and social class. These variations were quite pronounced to the extent that boys in unidentified portraits can often be identified as to nationality and social class, something that is very difficult to do today. Straight-leg kneepants were the most commomn type of boys' trosers at the turn of the century. We also see boys wearing knickers which became increasingly popular as the century progressed, escpecially in America. New one-piece styles became popular in the early 20th century like rompers and coveralls. We also see various developments in trouser suspension. Suspenders were still worn, but we see button-on clothes, suspender and bib-front pants, as well as belts. The popularity of these approaches varied over time and among countries. Baden Powell's Boy Scouts helped to populrize short pants after the turn of the century. Youth groups were very popular in the early 20th century and their influence appears to have been important. Short pants by the 1920s had become a major style for boys, especially in Europe. Older boys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. Knickers rapidly disappeared in America, but persisted until after the War in Europe. The increasing popularity of long pants became more pronounced after World War II (1939-45), at first in America and eventually in Europeas well. Short pants begin to become more popular in America dufing the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts and longs became popular. The hosiery worn with these different types of pants also varied over time and among countries.

The 1930s

Short pants and knickers, however, were still more common than long pants for boys. The wearing of short pants and knickers had almost completely replaced knee pants in the United States. European schoolboys continued to wear short pants throughout the decade. Older boys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. We see substantial differences between America and Europe concerning the pants and trousers worn by boys. American boys by the 1930s were fastening below the knee as had become standard by the 1930s. Short pants were more common in Europe. The lerngth of the shorts varied substantially. Some boys still wore long cut short pants in the 1930s, but by the mid-30s we see boys wearung shorter cut shorts, especially in European countries (France, Germany, and Italy). European schoolboys continued to wear short pants throughout the decade. Aome American boys also wore shorts, but knickers werev more common and long pants becoming increasingly popular. Kneesocks were commonly worn in the 1930s. Long stocks were still worn, but declining in poularity. By the end of the decade we see morevboys wearing ankle socks.socks. Knickers were worn with plain long stockings or with patterned knee socks (like golf socks). The knee socks were more popular with boys but quite a bit less formal.

The 1940s

Most boys in the 1940s wore either short or long pants. The knickers that had been so popular in America, rapidly disappeared during World War II. Most boys wote long pants, but short pants were still worn by many younger American boys during the 40s. Short pants were much more common throughout the 1940s in Europe. Some older boys wore knickers which persisted in Europe after they had largely disappered in America. Rompers were especially popular in France. World War II began with the NAZI invasion of Poland (September 1939). It was, however, mosdtly fought during the War. Boys and other fashions were significantly affected by the War.Boys commonly wore short pants in Europe. They were also worn in America, but not as commonly. Here there were regional and social class variations. Rather Amrerican boys had more commonly worn knickers. American boys rapidly switched to long pants in the early 1940s. This trend becomes increasingly common after World War II (1939-45), even in Europe. European boys more commonly wore short pants throughout the 1940s. Older boys might still wear knickers, but this fashion declined in Europe during the 40s. The actual trends varied from country to country. We note varying kinds of trouser suspension. Belts appear to hasve become more common than suspenders. We also notice button-on and suspender pants. British boys continued wearing short trousers with kneesocks, but short socks were becoming more popular in most other countries. Boys in the 1940s still wore short pants suits, but shorts were becomong more common as casuakl and school wear as stand along garments. They were less commonly worn as part of suits. Most youth groups around the world wore short pants. This was almost universal for Scouting, except for America. American Scouts did away with breeches and adopted long pants along woth an optgional short pants uniform during the summer.

The 1950s

Boys around the world mostly wore short and long trousers. Short pants were not as common as they were in the 1940s, although the pattern varied from country to country. More boys were wearing long pants, especiallt older boys. Knickers virtually disappeared in the 1950s. They were no longer seen in America, but we notice them still be worn by a few boys in some European countries during the early 50s. Some German boys were weaking knicker-length ski pants. We also see German boys wearing Lederhosen. Rompers were very popular for younger boys in France. There were wide variations among countries in the types of pants worn by boys. The major trend occuring during the 1950s was that long pants becme increasingly popular, especially for older boys. The strength and nature of this trend varied from country to country, but the same basic trend occurred in both Europe and America. Still many European boys wore short pants, but relatively few American boys. There were still destinctive national clothing styles in the 1950s. It is often to identify a boy's nationality on the basis of the clothes worn. A range of different materiasls were worn for boys trousers. Cotton drill was popular for slacks in America. Boys commonly wore denim jeans. Flannel and corduroy were popular in England and some other European countries. Boys around the world commonly wore ankle socks. Most American boys wore ankle socks. Some tounger boys wore knee socks when dressing up, but even here ankle socks were most common. Many English boys wore kneesocks. Boys on the cointinent mostly wore ankle socks, but kneesocks were also worn, especially during cold weather. In some countries, especially Germany, Poland, and Russia, long stockings were still worn during the winter.

The 1960s

Most boys wore long pants in the 1960s. Some younger boys wore short pants when dressing up, but this had become less common than in earlier decades. This shift was especially notable in Europe. Short pants begin to become more popular in the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Still some boys did not want to wear them at all. Jeans were commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. erences began to merge in the 1960s. Most American boys wore long trousers in the 1960s. Jeans were particularly popular. Younger boys might dress up in short pants suits, but this was becoming less common. Here there were social class differences. At the same time some older boys were beginning to wear short pants as warm-weather casual wear. In Europe boys continued to widely wear short pants, but less commonly during the winter or for dress-up occassions. Here there were differences from country to country and among social classess. German boys might wear Lederhosen, but jeans proved even more popular. We see more European boys wearing long pants. Denim made a huge impact during the 1960s. Denim jeans were widely worn in America during the 1950s, but they became commonly worn by European boys in the 1960s. American boys also commonly wore cotton trill khaki pants. Bright madras prints were popular for Bermuda shorts. Terrylyn worsted rapidly replaced flannel in Britain.

The 1970s

Most boys wore long pants in the 1970s, but more boys even older boys were wearing short pants. The changes begun in the 1950s and 60s became well establisged in the 1970s. The two principal trends was that first differences between American and European pants continued to close. While there were still differences, they were much less pronounced. This varied somewhat from country to country. The other major trend was the increasing popularity of casual styles. Short pants were increasingly being seen as casual warm weather wear. We still see many boys in Britain wearing short pants suits and blazers with shorts, but almost always as required school uniforms. Short pants generally disappeared as dress up wear, but became very popular as casual wear. Here the growing popularity of both basketball and soccer in America were important factors. Jeans became the height of fassion. They largely replaced Lederhosen in Germany, except for younger boys and special occassions. Designer jeans made their first appearance, first in America. Boys also wore cotduroy pants, some cut like jeans, but denim jeans were much more popular. Another trend was that shorter cut shorts became increadingly populasr. Few boys wore knee-length shorts. By the end of the decade boys were wearing very short short pants, even in America and Britain. Camp shorts were popular in America, as well various styles with colorful sports styling.

The 1980s

Boys mostly wore short and long pants in the 1980s. We also botice ski-pants and even a rair pair of knickers. Destinctive national styles largely declined although did not compleletly disappear in the 1980s, a ttend that was noticeable in the 1970s. A kinf of pan-European style heavily influenced by American fashion became adopted throughout Europe. Length only concerns short pants. The dasgionable length od shorts varied from country to country. Boys in Amerucan and Engkand tended to wear very short-cut shorts. Longer knee-lrngth shorts became popular in France. Denim was probably the most popular fabric in the 1980s. We note siome boys wearing cord pants, both short and long. Colorful nyvlon athletic shoets were still popular. Pluester was not as popular as it had been in the 1970s. Girls also commonly wore shorts, although here there were major differences from country to country.

The 1990s

American boys continued to wear jeans, both as longs and shorts, but not as cut-offs or overalls. Boys in the latec90s had just started to wear them extra-baggly and sagging. Although other types of pants were worn, jeans remained the preference. The zip-off below the knees style of long pants were just beginning to be worn, mostly with camp-style pockets. School uniform longs were allmost always a solid color khaki. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts and longs became popular. Shorts lengths went from just above the knee to mid-calf and even lover. Cord shorts in both regular and camp style were very popular in the late 1990's. It didn't matter if the wales were thin or thick. Camp style shorts were just starting to catch on. The socks worn with shorts were either crew length, pushed down, or ankle-high socks, in white, of course. Basketball and soccer shorts were still knee-length or longer. You would almost never see a boy with shorts shorter than the top of the knee. Boys preferred, as a whole, to wear shorts to school. Most schools who had uniforms would allow them to be worn at least in the fall and spring, if not year-round. The styles are almost always a solid color khaki style that were top of the knee length.








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Created: 2:40 AM 2/9/2006
Last updated: 12:02 AM 2/14/2006