Boys' Suits: Pants and Trousers Chronology--20th Century


Figure 1.--Short pants became a popular type of pants or trousers in the early 20th century and for many years were worn for both casual playwear as well as dressing up. They were worn all years round, although with different tyoes of hosiery. Popularity varied from country to country. Knickers were more popular in America. After World War II, shorts gradually became seen as casual, warm wearher wear. This photograph is unidentified, but the boy looks to be American and photographed in the 1930s.

Boys by the end of the 19th century were wearing knickers and knepants at knee length or even above the knee. Boys in Europe and America in the early 20th century were commonly wearing kneepants. This included boys in secondary school, although there were variations among countries and social class. Straight-leg kneepants were the most commomn, but we also see boys wearing knickers. Younger boys might wear three-quarter socks during the summer, but older boys wore long stockings as did younger boys in cold weather. Short pants for boys had appeared in the 1890s, but were not very common, mostly worn by younger boys. There use by the British Army in tropical postings and then by the Boy Scouts and Wandervogel had by the 1910s made them increasingl popular for older boys in Eurpope. One major divergence in the 20th century is that pants were less commonly bought as part of a suit. In fact after World War I boys began wearing suits less and less requently. American boys except in the South mostly insisted on wearing knickers. A variety of play outfits for younger boys such a romper and overalls in the 1900s. Older boys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. This trend becomes increasingly common after World War II (1939-45), even in Europe. Short pants begin to become more popular in the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts an longs vecome popular.

Decade Trends

Boys by the end of the 19th century were wearing knickers and knepants at knee length or even above the knee. Boys in Europe and America in the early 20th century were commonly wearing kneepants. This included boys in secondary school, although there were variations among countries and social class. These variations were quite pronounced to the extent that boys in unidentified portraits can often be identified as to nationality and social class, something that is very difficult to do today. Straight-leg kneepants were the most commomn type of boys' trosers at the turn of the century. We also see boys wearing knickers which became increasingly popular as the century progressed, escpecially in America. New one-piece styles became popular in the early 20th century like rompers and coveralls. We also see various developments in trouser suspension. Suspenders were still worn, but we see button-on clothes, suspender and bib-front pants, as well as belts. The popularity of these approaches varied over time and among countries. Baden Powell's Boy Scouts helped to populrize short pants after the turn of the century. Youth groups were very popular in the early 20th century and their influence appears to have been important. Short pants by the 1920s had become a major style for boys, especially in Europe. Older boys in the 1930s begin to wear long trousers more commonly, more in America than Europe. Knickers rapidly disappeared in America, but persisted until after the War in Europe. The increasing popularity of long pants became more pronounced after World War II (1939-45), at first in America and eventually in Europeas well. Short pants begin to become more popular in America dufing the 1960s, but increasingly as casul clothes. Jeans ar commonly worn by Americn boys in the 1950s and begin to become stylish worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s. Longer shorts appear in the 1990s and by the late 1990s baggy syles of both shorts and longs became popular. The hosiery worn with these different types of pants also varied over time and among countries.

Types of Pants

Boys during the 20th century wore several different types of pants. Some were major fashion items while other proved to be short-lasting fads. Kneepants were a major style for boys by the late 19th century and were widely wornuin the early 20th century. Knee pants at the turn of the century migh be worn by boys in their upper teens, but tyhids gradually declined as the decade progressed. Some boys wore long pants. This varied by country, social class, as well as family preferences. Short pants for boys had appeared in the 1890s, but were not very common, mostly worn by younger boys. There use by the British Army in tropical postings and then by the Boy Scouts and Wandervogel had by the 1910s made them increasingl popular for older boys in Eurpope. Knickers also became important inthe early 19th entury, especially in America. Knickers varies substabntiall. Some were short above the knees, others were worn so low that you can hasrdly see the ankles. Knickers were especially populasr in America for boys of all ages. They were more commonly worn by older boys in Europe. Long pants began to increase in popularity after World War II. We see both dress and casual long pants. An especially important fashion phenomenon was denim jeans. A variety of play outfits for younger boys such a romper and overalls in the 1900s. We also notice style like Capri pants and shortalls.

Country Trends

Boys in the early 20th century wore styles of pants that varied significantly from country to country. The differences between American and Europe were especiall significant. Many younger boys wore bloomer knickers, commonly with tunic suits. Older boys usually wore kneepants. By the 1910s American boys were increasingly wearing knickers although younger boys still wore kneepants. In Europe there was also change with boys increasingly wearing short pants. Some older boy wore knickers, more on the continent than England. We also see suspender pants in Europe, although this style was not as popular in England. These trends continued after World War I. Short pants became very common in Europe and knickers in America, although some boys wore shorts in America as well. On the continent boys by the 1930s were beginnjing to werar shorter cut short pants. English boys continured wearing knee-length shorts. After World War II knickers quickly disappeared in America. Boys increasingly wore long pants. Denim jeans became very popular. Yhe same basic trends occured in Europe, but more slowly. Boys were still commonly wearimng short psants in Europe. German boys wore Lederhosen. We also notice ski-pants in Germany. Boys in Europe were more commonly wearing long pants in Euope by the 1960s. Many schools in England resisted this trend by reqwuiring short trousers. Many of the destinctive types of pants began to disappear by the 1970s when a kind of pan-European style evolved, increasingly similar to American styles.

Other Garments

One major divergence in the 20th century is that pants were less commonly bought as part of a suit. In fact after World War I boys began wearing suits less and less requently. Younger boys might wear three-quarter socks during the summer, but older boys wore long stockings as did younger boys in cold weather. American boys except in the South mostly insisted on wearing knickers.







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Created: 5:58 AM 2/8/2006
Last updated: 5:41 AM 2/12/2006