Knee Pants Chronology: Late 19th century


Figure 1.--These children were photographed in Gillsburg, Illinois. The photograph was undated, but HBC estimates the 1870s. Notes the lack of lapels, the slanted breast pocket, and the large number of buttons. Also notice the striped long stockings.

we note some younger boys wearing shortened-length pants at mid-century, at first boys from fashionable families in the larger cities. As the century progressed and especially by the 1880s and 1890s we see more and more boys wearing knee pants at first to about 8-10 years if age. nd we see boys in the country wearing knee pants and not just in the cities. And then in the 1890s we see quite old boys wearing knee pants. By the turn of the century American boys in their late teens commonly wore knee pants, although this varied from country to country. Kneepants are characterized by the knee length and three ornamental buttons at the knee. Knee pants varied in a variety of ways. Some knee pants were at knee length. Others were cut well below the knee, looking some what like narrow-cut knickers. I'm not quite sure how the length of knee pants varied over time, but it is one of the factors that we will look into on this page. Whioe kneepants were very common during the late 19th century, it is not yet clear precisely how the styyles and popularity changed over time.

Decades

Shortened-length pants became standard for boys in the late-19th century. In Europe we see both knickers and straight-leg knee pants. In America we see mostly knee pants. Knee pants appeared before mid-century, but they did not become widely worn by boys untilmthe 1870s. And only universal by the 1880s, although just for younger boys. This changed substantially in the 1890s when we begin to see even older boys wearing knee pants, at least in America. It became increasingly common for quite old boys to wear knee pants. This was particularly true in America where we see even older teens wearing knee pnts by the the turn-of-the 20t century. This was not univrsal, but we seequite a number of older bits wearing knee pnts by the lare-1890s. Many boys still wore long pants suits with highly varied desisns in the 1860s. This changed significantly in the 1870s when knee pants became the standad suit type for boys. The jackets also took on an increasingly modern design. We see differences between Europe and america and between Eyropean countries. Knee pants were not as common in Eastern Europe as they were in Western Europe.

Garments

Some information about the garments associated with kneepants suits include:

Suit jackets

The suit jackets worn with knee pants varied. Styles include Norfolk, single breasted, double breasted, and others. Often a younger boy bought a suit jacket for the first time, might continue wearing a Fautleroy-style lace or ruffled collars with his new suit. This was generally for boys up to about 8 years of age, but boys of up to 10 or 11 years might continue to wear the fancy collars. Beginning at about 8 years a boy might begin to wear Eton collars. This was particularly common in England where boys often began preparatory boarding school at about age 8. Boys showing up at school with a frilly ruffled collar rather than an Etion collar would have been teased by the other boys. At the time it was the wealthy who set styles, thus this same pattern was soon picked up on by those of more modest income who could not afford expensive private schools. This sharp cut off at age 8 was not nearly as established in American and continental European countries.

Vests

No information available yet.

The pants

Toward the end of the 19th century, especially in the 1880s and 1890s, it became increasingly common for quite old boys to wear kneepants. By the turn of the century and the 1910s boys in their late teens wore knee pants suits. The style during the 1910s turned toward knickers and knee pants were not commonly seen on older boys by the 1920s. Some formal styles for little boys, however, continued to consist of knee pants in the 1920s--again with the ornamental three buttoms at the knee. Knee pants varied in a variety of ways. Some knee pants were at knee length. Others were cut well below the knee, looking some what like narrow-cut knickers. I'm not quite sure how the length of knee pants varied over time, but it is one of the factors that we will look into on this page.

Accessories


Country Differences

Substantial differences existed from country to country. Kneepants were widely worn innAmerica and France. Even older teenagers wore them in America. British boys did not wear them as commonly as knickers during the late 19th century were more common.

Styles

Knee pants varied in a number of ways. Some knee pants were at knee length. Others were cut well below the knee, looking some what like narrow-cut knickers. I'm not quite sure how the length of knee pants varied over time

Length

Knee pants as suggested by the name were worn at knee length, either right at the knee or just below it. They were not generally worm at lengths above the knee, although a rapidly growing boy might find himself with above the knee knee pants.

Tightness

Knee pants were generally worn relatively tightly. Certainly thery were usually tighter than the often baggy knickers that were widely worn in England during the late 19th century.

Buttons

Knee pants had three buttons at the knee. They were primarily ornamental, a residue of the knee breeches from which they may have evolved.

Ages

Boys began to wear kneepants after they were breeched, commonly at 4-6 years of age. Some boys may have spent an interim period in kilts. Some boys were older than 6 years when breeched, but most boys were breeched by this age. The age of the boys wearing kneepants varied widely between countries and within countries. Some boys may have moved on to long pants as young as 10nyears of age, although 13 or 14 was more common. American boys in the 1890s might still be earing kneepants at 18 or 19 years of age. European boys usually behan wearing long pants earlier than this.

Hosiery

Boys in the late-19th century commonly wore long stockings with kneepants. Normally they were dark colors. Some younger boys might wear knee or three-quarter length stockings. This was particularly common in France where by the 1890s boys up to 13 might wear their kneepants with socks rather tjhan long stockings.







HBC







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Created: March 17, 1999
Last edited: 3:06 PM 8/29/2007