Long Trousers for Boys


Figure 1.--John Strange and Sarah Ann Williams are shown in this circa 1830 painting by John R Wildman (active 1823-39). Oil on canvas at London's Guildhall Gallery. The long pants worn with skeleton suits were the forst long pants specifically designed for boys. Note how baggy the trousers are, earlier in the decade they would have been more trim fitting.

Long trousers first appeared in the 18th century as garments for peasants and workers and sailors. They were looked down on by the established classses. The French referred to the people wearing them cotempuosly as the "sansculotes". Boys would wear what the style of trousers worn by their fathers which was governed more by social class than age. The first long pants to be worn specifically by boys were the long trousers that boys began wearing with skeleton suits at the end of the 18th centurty. It was a couple decades before their fathers followed suit and began wearing long trousers in polite society. Boys generally wore long pants on the fotst half of the 19th century. Shorter types of pants (primarily kneepants and knickers) became increasingly common for boys in the later half of the 19th century and other types (knickers and shorts pants) in the first half of the 20th century. Through this period, long pants were worn by sonme boys and became increasingly common in the later half of the 20th century, especailly after World War II. Long trousers were especially common as work pants. Some American boys for examples might have a knickers suit, but long pants play clothes are jean overalls work clothes. Various ypes of long pants have been worn. Many in the 19th century were purchased as parts of suits. In the 20th century various casual types of pants became more common. A new style of baggy trousers energed in the 1990s.

Chronology

Long trousers first appeared in the 18th century as garments for peasants and workers and sailors. They were looked down on by the established classses. The French referred to the people wearing them cotempuosly as the "sansculotes". Boys would wear what the style of trousers worn by their fathers which was governed more by social class than age. The first long pants to be worn specifically by boys were the long trousers that boys began wearing with skeleton suits at the end of the 18th centurty. It was a couple decades before their fathers followed suit and began wearing long trousers in polite society. Boys generally wore long pants on the first half of the 19th century. This included even younger boys. A good example is an unidentified American boy in 1855. Shorter types of pants (primarily kneepants and knickers) became increasingly common for boys in the later half of the 19th century and other types (knickers and shorts pants) in the first half of the 20th century. Through this period, long pants were worn by sonme boys. This was most common for older boys, but we see younger boys as well wearing long trousers. A good example is Elmer Dayton in 1870. Long trousers becme much less common in the 1880s. Long trousers again became increasingly common in the later half of the 20th century, especailly after World War II. In the 20th century various casual types of pants became more common. A new style of baggy trousers energed in the 1990s.

Conventions

Long trousers were especially common as work pants. This was in part a continuation of their initial gensis as trousrs of the common working people. Some American boys for examples might have a knickers suit, but long pants play clothes are jean overalls work clothes. Many in the 19th century were purchased as parts of suits.

Construction

We notice a variety of different pants designs. Most of the difference in construction is associated with the waistline and how the pants wee open and closed. The early lon pants seem to have had a front flap. The ones for boys had prominant buttons. Gradually the flap became less prominant, and the pant had bttons set to the side where they were often not seen. We seen younger boys in the mid-19th century wearing pants with a very prominant waistline. A good example here is Tom Baird in the 1860s. We notice these with the cut-away jackets that were very popilar in the mid-19th century. Some of these pants had button closures. They also varied greatly in the cut. Some were cut very fully. Gradually the modern construction of a front fly became increasingly standard.

Types

Various types of long pants have been worn. The first were the long trousers worn with skeleton suits. These generally were worn slightly above the ankle. Later pants were worn at or below the ankle. Jeans appeared in the second half of the 19th century , but were not at first considerd a boys garment. Younger boys mightwear button-on or susdprnder long pants, but the shorts were more common. There were many types of long pants paly suits, especially in America. Many long pants were bought as parts of suits. Corduroy is best know for shorts pants in Britain and France and knickers in America, but cord long pants were also popular. Slacks appeared after World War II and have been popular ever since. Chinos were an especially popular style. There were many stylistic changes ober times to slacks. They have been worn with and without cuffs, front pkleats, and various pocket arrangements. During the 1950s a small ornamental back belt was popular. Pants with cargo pants appeared in the 1990s, and out growth of camp shorts and army Viet Nam era styles. Baggy trousers also appeared in the 1990s.

Country Trends

Boys were the first to wear long pants as part of the skeleton suits that appeared in the late 18th century. We do not notice much difference among countries, but the style first appeared in Western Europe. Men of substance did not begin to wear long pants until later, well into the 19th century. Boys wore long pants both with skeleton suits and tunics. Again this appears to have been a trans-national trend throughout Europe and the Americas. Thus in the early 19th century men and boys (after breeching) wore long trousers. This continued into the mid-19th century when we begin to see younger boys wearing shortened=length pants, often bloomer knickers. Knee pants also gradually became popular. Agains this appears to have been a trans-national trend and not restricted to any one country. Long pants continued to be standard for most boys until the late 19th century when more and more boys wore kneepants and to a lesser extent knickers. Here American boys mostly wore straight knee pants. And we notice older boys in America wearing kneepants than in Europe. Long pants were not common for boys in the early 20th century. European boys began wearing short pants and American boys knickers. By the 1930s many American boys were wearing long pants, but this was less common in Europe. The trend for long pants continued in America after World War II. Shortpants persisted in Europe, but by the 1960s long pants were beginning o become more popular there as well. There were differences from country to country. Jeans in particular made a major impression. By the 1970s a kind of trans-European style began to take hold and this consisted of long pants to a great extent.

Material

We have just begun to collect information on fabrics. Some of the materials most associated with trousers hace been flannel, denim, corduroy, and cotton twill. Polyester appeared after World War II. Today many blended fabrics are popular, primarily cotton or wool with varying amounts of synthetic fibers.

Creases








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Created: October 18, 2001
Last updated: 5:55 PM 6/2/2007