Figure 1.--This American boy wears plain pantalettes in a portrait taken in 1869. Note the Scotts cap albeit with a feather. His dress has some boyish touches such as front buttons and tartan-style decorations. The boy is Arthur Hamilton of Brooklyn, New York. He was 3 1/2 at the time. Click on the image to see his sister who was photographed on the same day.

Children’s clothes by the 1840s were still similar for boys and girls until about the age of 5 or 6 years of agesix. Both wore "dresses" of cotton or wool around the house. Occasionally, a boy's dress would be worn over "drawers" to match, which showed beneath the dress. Little girls often wore pantalettes peeking beneath their dresses. The usual child's dress was long or short sleeved to suit the season, with slim sleeves, round or boat-shaped neck and the waist was lightly fitted with a set-in belt. Preferred fabrics were linen and cotton, for ease of care. Conventions for pantalettes changed markedly after the mid-19th century. It was becoming less common for boys to wear pantalettes, except for youger boys still in dresses. While the style had not entirely disappeated. Some boys still wore suits with calf-length pants. In some cases frills were incorporated with the hem of the pants. Pantalettes for most boys had become much less common. By mid-century it had become more acceptable for younger children to wear shorter knee length dresses with short socks. Pantalettes for these children became much shorter, showing only at the hem of the dress. While less common, pantalettees did not disappear and photographs of boys wearing dresses and kilts testify that they were still being worn by boys.

Dresses

Children’s clothes by the 1840s were still similar for boys and girls until about the age of 5 or 6 years of age. Both wore "dresses" of cotton or wool around the house. Occasionally, a boy's dress would be worn over "drawers" to match, which showed beneath the dress. Little girls often wore pantalettes peeking beneath their dresses. The usual child's dress was long or short sleeved to suit the season, with slim sleeves, round or boat-shaped neck and the waist was lightly fitted with a set-in belt. Preferred fabrics were linen and cotton, for ease of care. A major change began in the mid-19th century as many mothers began adding boyish touches to the dresses for their sons. This could be front buttons or tartan fabrics or trim to make it more like a more masuline kilt.

Conventions

Pantalettes continued to be worn at mid-century, but significant changes occurred in the conventions associated with them. These changes were mirrored in changing conventions associated with dressing younger boys in dresses. While dresses were not the only garment worn with pantalettes, they were by far the most common. Conventions for pantalettes changed markedly after the mid-19th century. After mid-century it became less common for boys to wear pantalettes and the age for wearing them declined. These changes were mirrored in changing conventions associated with dressing younger boys in dresses. While dresses were not the only garment worn with pantalettes, they were by far the most common. The development of photography provides much better evidence on the prevalence and conventions associated with pantalettes than was the case in the early part of the century.

Clothes

After mid-century, boys mostly wore pantalettes with dresses. This was in part because after breehing boys mostly wore long pants or in Ehgland knicker-like pants. After mid-century kneepants became increasingly popular. Some boys as a result might wear pantalettes with these pants. A boy breeched early might wear pantalettes with kneepants. But some older boys in kneepants might also wear them. In some cases frills were actually incorporated in the hem of the pants.

Style

By mid-century it had become more acceptable for younger children to wear shorter knee length dresses with short socks. Pantalettes reflected these changes. The length of pantalettes, however varied. Some boys wore pantelettes well below the hem of their dresses and below the knee. Other boys wore shorter-length pantalettes showing only at the hem of the dress. These pantalettes ended above the knee.

Ages

Boys might commonly wear pantalettes until they were breeched which was primarily about 4-6 years of age. HBC believes that as long as they wore dresses they probably wore pantalettes. Some older boys who were breeched at a lattervage might continue wearing them. Also boys wearing fancy kneepants suits might also wea them up to 7 or 8 years of age, in some cases even longer.

Gender differences

Boys in dresses wore pantalettes as commonly as did girls. There do appear to have been some differences in the pantalettes worn by girls and boys. Girls' pantalettes tended to be much fancier with ruffled or even lace trim. This should not, however, be over enphasized as a boy with older sisters was quite likeky to get their hand-me-downs.

Drawers

We note at mid century a wide range pf pantalettes and drawers. Some were very fancy and other very plain. In some cases it is difficult to tell the difference between pain pantalettes and drawers and pants. We note boys wearing tunics with white pants that look rather like drawers. A good example here id a New York boy about 1850. The difference here is the material used pantalettes were made with a light material while pants with a heavier material. It is not always easy to tell the difference in old photigraohs.

Created: November 12, 1998
Last updated: 4:04 AM 9/20/2007