Little Lord Fauntleroy Suits: American Styles


Figure 1.--This American portrait is undated, but as it was done as a split-back postcard we know it was made after the turn of the 20th century. We would estimate about 1905-10. The boy wears a classic small-jacket done in velvet. He has a large ruffled rather than lace collar which was common after the turn of the century. Notice the marvelous whicker chair. I'm not sure about the book he is looking at, but it might be a photographer's samples.

Nowhere was the Fauntleroy suit more popular than in America. Quite a number of boys wore formal velvet Fauntleroy suits, but many more boys wore less expensive suits with large lace or ruffled collars. American boys generally wore Fauntleroy suits with wide-brimmed sailor hats. Other head gear was worn, but was not nearly as popular as in Europe. Someboys wore their Fauntleroy suits with long ringlet curls. Most of the American boys with long hair wore ringlets. I was not common for boys to have long uncurled hair. One of the most destinctive elements of the American Fauntleroy suit was that it was worn with large, carefully tied bows. Most boys wore large bows to match the large collars. Almost all Fauntleroy suits, except for kilt suits, were worn with knee pants. Unlike England. knicker Fauntleroy suits were rare. The American Fauntleroy suit was often worn with heavy high-top shoes that looked like boots. The patent leather pumps and buckle shoes worn in England were much less common in America. Here we have not extensively developed this page on American Fauntleroy suits. This is primarily because the main HBC Fauntleroy page has primarily been developed with information and images about Fauntkeroy suits in the United States.

Popularity

No where was the Fauntleroy suit more popular than in America. We see boys in other countries wearing them. The photographic record, however. suggests that really large numbers of American boys wore Fauntleroy suits or suits with Fauntleroy styling. It is difficult to assess just how popular the Fauntleroy suit was. Probably the best indicator is school photographs. The public school by the late 19th century, especially by the 1880s had become regularized throughout the country. The vast majority of younger children were by that time attending school. Thus school portraits provide a goof cross section of America. Thus these images suggest just how popular the Fauntleroy suit was. When interpreting these portraits it should be remembered that theyh do not show two groups. First the abjectly poor, especially blacls in the Deep South. And the really affluent who could aford tutors and private schools. The really poor were less likely to wear Fauntleroy suits and the really well to do were more likely to wear them. One clear observation is that some younger biys did wear Fauntleroy suits to school, but this wasa a realtively small minority of the boys. A much larger proportion wore outfits with some elements of Fauntleroy styling, but not a full Faunrleroy suit.

Chronology

Fancy suits looking like Fauntleroy appeared in the 1870s, but were not very common. They were basically following European fashions at the time. The Fauntleroy craze began when Mrs. Burnett published Little Lord Fauntleroy (1885). This inspired the Fauntelroy craze of the 1880s and 90s which became a very much American phenomenon. Many boys were dressed in the fancy velvet suits and much larger numbers in less expensive imitations or suits with some Fauntleroy styling. We see quite a range of styles during this period. Boys not only wore velvet suits, but destinctive Fauntleroy blouses with large lace and ruffled collars. Many boys had regular suits rather than velvet suits, but mothers hadded Fauntleroy trim. There are many portraits of American boys archived on HBC. Unfortunately many are not dated, complicating any chronology. We will eventually link the dated ones here. One such portrait is Charles H. Pool, Jr. photographed in 1896. We still see Fauntleroy suits after the turn of the 20th century in the 1900s, but by the 1910s they are rapidly going out of style.

Material

Little Lord Fauntleroy suits are generaly associated with plush velvet. In fact the suits were made in a wide variety of fabrics. Velvet was most popular for the classic suits, but velvet was an expesive material and thus cost-conscious mothers used many other less expensive and more durable fabrics. This developed as middle-class mothers copied the fashions of the privlidged classes. Velvet was also a relatively heavy fabric. Thus lighter weight materials were adopoted for warm summer weather. A boy might wear just his blouse in hot weather. But there were jackets done in light-weight fabrics as well. Othther materials were used depending on the type of Fauntleroy outfit. Boys wearing Fauntleroy kilts, for exmple. might wear a velvet jacket with a wool tartan kilt. Fauntleroy dresses might be made in velvet, but a range of other fabrics were also used. I am not entirely sure about the fabrics for the accompsnying garments like the fancy blouses. Of course lace was sometimes employed for the collar. Boys wearing dresses might wer a Broderie Anglaise petticoat and drawers underneath.

Cost

Quite a number of American boys wore formal velvet Fauntleroy suits with expensive lace collars, Many more boys wore less expensive suits done in the Fauntleroy style. Often they were not done in velvet, but less expensive materials. Some were even regular suits, but worn with large collars. Often these suits used in expensive lace or ruffled collars.

Garments

A Fauntleroy suit was essentily a jacket, especially a cut away, jacket worn with a fancy blouse and kneepants. Several other garments, however were associated with Fauntleroy outfits. American boys wore Fauntleroy suits with a variety of headwear. The most common was the wide-brimmed sailor hat. Other head gear was worn, but was not nearly as popular as in Europe. The classic Fauntleroy suit of the mid-1880s was worn with a lace collar. After the turn of the 20th century, ruffled collars became more common. The large collar the boy here wears is a good example of this (figure 1). Some boys wore pin on lace collars rather than a fancy blouse. The classic Fauntleroy jacket was a cut-away velvet jacket, but there were other styles. One of the most destinctive elements of the American Fauntleroy suit was that it was worn with large, carefully tied bows. Most boys wore large bows to match the large collars. Almost all Fauntleroy suits, except for kilt suits, were worn with kneepants. Unlike England. knicker Fauntleroy suits were rare. American boys normally wore Fauntleroy suits with long black stockings. There were some exceptions here as not all Fauntleroy suits were black. There were also chronological changes especially after the turn of the 20 century. The boy here, gor example does mot look to be wearing black stockings, but it is difficilt to tell for sure (figure 1). Also note that they look to be expensive stockings--the material fits tightly and has a kind of sheen. They may even be silk. The American Fauntleroy suit was often worn with heavy high top shoes that looked like boots. The patent leather pumps and buckle shoes worn in England were much less common in America.

Family Portraits

One interesting apepect is how the Fauntleroy suit fits into the overall family clothing picture. We note a range of family portraits. Families tended to be larger in the 19th century. So families which several children were fairly common. Normally it is the youngest boy or two that wears a Fauntleroy suit. Given the age spread of the children in a normal family, there were usually only about two boys the right age for Fauntleroy suits. We have noted three boys in Fauntleroy suits. I've never seen a family with four boys wearing Faunteroy suits, but I wouldn't say that there ws no such families. This depended on part as to whether their were girls in family as well. Another factor was to what age the boys wore their Fauntleroy suits, this varied somewhat from family to family. We notice the other children in the family waring all kinds of outfits, it part depending on their age. This of course is best viewed in family photographs.

Hair Styles

American boys wore Fauntleroy suits ith many different hair styles. We note boys with various hair lengths. Many boys wore a range of short hair styles. By the 1880s when Fauntleroy suits became popular, it was no longer common for boys to wear their hair doen to or over their ears as was common at mid-century. So we see most boys with short hair cuts similar to those of older boys. Some boys, however, wore their Fauntleroy suits with long hair. These longer styles were longer than common at mid-century, in some cases worn to shouldr length. American boys with long hair generally had in done in ringlet curls. This was much less common in Europe. Many boys had their curls cut when they were breeched. Some boys such as some of the boys wearing Fauntleroy suits had their curls cut later. It was not common for American boys to have long uncurled hair. We notice a range of other styles such as top curls.

Ages

Boys wore Fauntleroy suits at a range of ages. They were most common for younger boys. We have commonly noted boys from abour 3 to 8 years of age. A good example is 3 years old Charles H. Pool, Jr.. The boy pictured here looks to be avout 6-7 years old (figure 1). Boys younger than 3 years did not commonly wear Fauntleroy suits, in part because they were not yet breeched. Some of these younger boys might wear Fauntlroy dresses. We have also noted a small number of older boys wearing them as well. Less common are older boys, especially boys older than about 10 years of age. We do not, however a few bous of 11-12 years wears them, even 13 year ols--nut this is much less common. We will link more of the pages here to show the different ages at which American boys wore Fauntleroy suits. Unfortunately many of the availabkle images are unidentified and we can only guess at the boys' ages.

Usage

We do not fully uderstand the usage of the Fsuntleroy suit. This is in part because most available images are forml portraits rather than family snapshots. Fauntleroy suits would have been wore for special occasions and formal events such as church. People dressed more formally at the time. Thus occassions that today are casual events such as parties, peole in the late 19th and early 20th century would have dressed formally. We see boys in Fauntleroy suits in outdoor events such as garden partirs or even picnics. Certainly parties would have been such events. Another event would have been formal studio ohotographic portraits. Here peole did not always dress up, but it was quite common. Cerainly evebts such as weddings would have requied formal dress. Interestingly we do not see a lot of boys in Fauntleroy suits doing First Communion. We are not sure, but we believe that at the time Fauntleroy suits were popular that modern First Communion celebrations were not yet developed. The same is true of conformations, but here boys tend to be older and most were no longer wearing Fauntleroy suits.

Breeching

One clothing historian believes that the Fauntleroy suit was an important factor in ending the centuries old convention of dressing younger boys in dresses. She speculates that mothers were so anxious in the lare 1880s and 90s to dress their sons in Fauntleroy outfits that they breeched them earlier than they might have. Of course there were skirted options such as a Fauntleroy dress of a Fauntleroy kilt suit. Even so, the standard Faunteroy suit as decribed and depicted in the book was a knee pants suit. And that was what most mothers wanted for their sons. We do not have any written evidence supporting this thesis from the late 19th century. We do, however, have a very lsrge archive of historical images. The problem is thst most of them do not identify the individuals making it difficult to assess gender. Not only do we have individual and small group portraits, but we also have whole family images. Even with out names, it seems that once boys were dressed in knee oants Fauntleroy suits that they no longer wore dresses. Thus it does seem that Fauntleroy suits accelerated the age of breeching. To what extent this influenced the decline of the comvention of boys wearing dresses and other skirted garments, we are not ebntirely sure.

Costumes

We note some boys who are wearing Fauntleroy costumes that are so perfect that they seem to be costumes rather than actual suits. In the case of Funtleroy suits, the concept of a costume and a boy's best suit may actually merge. It is difficult to tell in many instances as for so many portraits rhere is no provinance. Some of these costumes images may actually be boys involved in stage plays. "Lottle Lord Fauntleroy" was presented as a play throughout America and Europe. We have images of several American boys who played the part. In some cases these are identigied, in other cases they are not. Fauntleroy costumes are a little more complicated than most other costumes as long hair and often ringlet curls are a part of the complete outfit.

Manufacturers

HBC has not persued information on clothing manufacturers, although it is a topic of interest. A reader asks us if we have any information on the clothing manufacturers in New York City during the early 1900s. She reports that her great granfather Morris Teitelbaum and his brother or cousin Meyer Teitelbaum, both owned clothing manufacturing companies which manufactured children's clothing, including Little Lord Fauntleroy suits. The 1910 and 1920 census indicated that he was a clothing manufacturer. Our reader reports, "I was also told he owned several clothing stores in upstate New York, but I do not have a name. And that my grandmother would make my father wear knickers and he couldn't stand." While we have no additional information at this time, we are interested in adding information on clothing manufacturers.

Main Fauntleroy Page

Here we have not extensively developed this page on American Fauntleroy suits. This is primarily because the main HBC Fauntleroy page has primarily been developed wiyh information and images about Fauntkeroy suits in the United States.

Individuals

We have archieved numerous images of individual American boys wearing Fauntleroy suits. Most of these boys are unidentified. We are also collecting accounts about American boys wearing Fauntleroy suits. A number of biographies include boyhood accounts. We have collected some brief accounts from various countrites. Of course he most famous account is Vivian Burnett, the son of the author of Little Lord Fauntleroy.







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Created: April 20, 2003
Last updated: 12:19 AM 8/11/2008