Figure 1.--This is a modern painting, we think a recreation of an earlier psinting. The artist is only identified as Julian (1958- ). It looks to us as a fairly modern depiction of a late 19yth century suit. The suit itself suggests an older boy. The ruffled collar a younger boy. Note the matching vest.

The vest or waistcoat was a common part of many 19th century suits, especially in the mid- and late 19th century. (The British use waistcoat as a vest there means an undershirt.) Most fashionable 19th suits had them and they were still very common in the early 20th century. We are not yet sure to what extent vests varied as to the different kinds of suits such as collar buttoning, Eton, Rugby, Norfolk, single and double-breated sack suits, ect. Nor do we know if the type of trousers affected the vest. There were even common with boys wearing kiltsuit. We have noted them both made in the same material as the suit or in contrasting material and colors. The three piece suit as it was called continued to be worn in the 20th century, but by the 1930s it began to be seen as a particularly formal style and was optional. Thus many boys' suits wre made with just the jacket and pants. In the post-World War II era, many mothers decided that a boy just did not need a vest. They are still available for particularly formal occasions, but are rarely worn with a suit. We do note that in the 1970s and 80s, it became fassionable for younger to boys to wear vests rather than a suit coat for formal occassions.

Popularity

The vest or waistcoat was a common part of many 19th century suits, especially in the mid- and late 19th century. (The British use waistcoat as a vest there means an undershirt.) Most fashionable 19th suits had them and they were still very common in the early 20th century.

Types of Suits

We are not yet sure to what extent vests varied as to the different kinds of suits such as collar buttoning, Eton, Rugby, Norfolk, single and double-breated sack suits, ect. We have maby of these suits archived on HBC and will have to index them here to assess the pooularity of vests with the different suit styles. We have seen vests more commonly worn with some of these suits. We had always assumed that boys wearing suits with jackets that did not have lapels and buttoned at the collar probably wore shirt waits and blouses. We have since noted that vests were worn with suits even when they could not be seen. Some portraitsd, however, are quite rare. We are unsure though how common this was. It is of course much easier to assess the suits worn with vests when you can see the vests

Trouser Types

Nor do we know if the type of suit trousers affected the vest. There were even common with boys wearing kiltsuit.

Collars

Vests were also worn with a range of collars. This of course varies significantly over time. Here we see a boy wearing a vess with a ruffled collar (figure 1).

Contrast

We have noted them both made in the same material as the suit or in contrasting material and colors.

Chronology

The three piece suit as it was called continued to be worn in the 20th century, but by the 1930s it began to be seen as a particularly formal style and was optional. Thus many boys' suits wre made with just the jacket and pants. In the post-World War II era, many mothers decided that a boy just did not need a vest. They are still available for particularly formal occasions, but are rarely worn with a suit.

Vest without Jacket

We do note that in the 1970s and 80s, it became fassionable for younger to boys to wear vests rather than a suit coat for formal occassions.