Sailor Suits: Chronology--Century Trends


Figure 1.--This English boy was from Blackpool, or at least had his portrait taken there. Blackpool was an important beach resort. It is undated, but we would guess it was taken in the late-1870s, although the early-80s is possible. Notice the bow and Eton collar worn eith the suit and the bold stripes on the kneepants.

Boys commonly wore sailor suits in both the 19th and 20th centuries. For about 100 yers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries it was among the most popular styles for boys and became a major style for girls as well. Major changes in children's clothing had occurred in the late-18th and early-19th centuries. Another major innovation was the sailor suit wjich appered in the mid-19th century. Queen Victoria is usually given credit for the innovation, although we are not entirely sure if some may have introduced the innovation erlier. It took a while for the fashion to cathch on with the general public, but it gradully grew in popularity and spread to many other countries. There were many stlistic variations. Girls began wearing sailor suits as well by the 1860s abd was a major stylistc influence by the 1870s. By the late-19th and early-20th centuries the sailor suit was among the most popular style for boys and girls. The sailor suit continued to be widely worn in the Edwardian era. After World War I it began to decline in popularity for boys. A factor here was the popularity among girls. Older boys began turning away from sailor suits, although varird substantially from country to country. Aftr World War II only very young boys wore sailor xuits, although many girls' dresses continued to be done with sailor styling.

The 19th Century

Major changes in children's clothing had occurred in the late-18th and early-19th centuries. A range of more comfortable, loose fitting styles appeared. English children were among the first to be emancipated. Another major innovation was the sailor suit wjich appered in the mid-19th century. Queen Victoria is usually given credit for the innovation, although we are not entirely sure if some may have introduced the innovation erlier. It took a while for the fashion to cathch on with the general public, but it gradully grew in popularity and spread to many other countries. There were many stlistic variations, often divering in various ways from the traditioal uniforms of the Royal Navy. Styls were developed from the uniforms of other naional navies. Some styistic innovations were more styles of fashion. Girls began wearing sailor suits as well by the 1860s abd was a major stylistc influence by the 1870s. By the late-19th the sailor suit was among the most popular style for boys and girls.

Early 19th century (1800-1840)

Major changes in childrens cothing occurred in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. A range of more comfortable, loose fitting styles appeared. English children were among the first to be emancipated, little girls changing to soft, unlined frocks in the 1770's with France and the Colonies following next. Some well-known writers had taken the age to task for its manner of confining infants' bodies in tight clothes, among them John Locke, the English philosopher (1632-1704), who was probably the big influence in the change. He was followed by Jean Jacques Rousseau, the French philosopher (1712-1775), who carried on the crusade and was forced to flee Paris for England because of his revolutionary ideas. Although the change over in men's dress to trousers occurred early in the period, knee breeches were still worn for dress at formal occasions as can be seen in contemporary portraits. The writings of the Age of Reason were having an effect in putting children into comfortable-clothes, like skeleton suits or sailor suis. The sailor trouser costume known as the English sailor's dress being a short little jacket with an open-necked blouse, a waistcoat without skirts and the long breeches. We also notice tunics worn with loose-fitting pataloons. It was in England during the mid-19th century when someone had the inspiration that boys should wear sailor blouses and trousers. We are not entirely sure when this first occurred. Queen Victoria is normally given credit for this. Some sources suggest there were some English boys that wore sailor suits before the royal princes. We have not yet been able to confirm this. English seamen had been dressing in pantaloons since the 17th century and English boys adopted trousers a half century before their fathers did. But we have not yet found evidence of English boys wearing sailor suits in the early 19th century.

Mid-19th century (1840-70)

Few men as both boy and adult have had more influence on fashion than Edward VII. He was largely responsible for popularizing nautical garb. The sailor suit may have been worn by boys earlier, but it was in 1846 after Winterhalter painted the 5-year old Prince of Wales in a white sailor suit complete with bellbottom trousers, his first long pants, that the style became popular for boys. The young prince was depicted wearing a diminutive but accurate version of naval uniform in a white suit with bell bottom trousers, a sailor collar and neckerchief and sailor hat. The style endured as a boys' fashion staple for decades. Countless formal studio photographic portraits show boys in sailor suits. After the late 1840s, few if any fashion magazines appeared without at least some sailor suits for boys and girls. The sailor suit by the 1860s had begun to spread to other countries in Europe. One fashion magazine, Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, in 1861 suggested sailor suits for boys of 6 or 7. It was still confined, however, primarily to younger boys.Winterhalter was not the only painter to depict boys in sailor suits. Renoir often painted children in sailor suits. Perhaps the most celebrated portrait painter of the day, John Singer Seargent, painted relatively few boys, but one well known painting of an American boy shows him in a white, keepants sailor suit and wide brimmed hat. Countless European royals were commonly outfitted in sailor suits. Some like the children of George V or the ill fated Tsarevich Alexei and his sisters commonly were outfitted in sailor suits. By the turn of the century even women adopted it. Early sailor suits, however, often did not follow Royal Navy styles as cloesly as Queen Elizabeth.

Late 19th century (1870-1900)

While this set the precedent for dressing English princes in sailor suits, the style did not begin to catch on with the general public until the 1870s. The sailor suit achieved immense popularity, in both Continental countries (especially Belgium, France, Italy, Germany, and the Netherland). The style was also widely popular in the United States. Interestingly, the sailor suit was more popular in many of these countries than England itself. Nowhere was the sailor suit more popular than Germany which proceeded to build a powerful navy, deemed necessary for a modern colonial power. Sailor suits were especially popular for the royal princes in virtually every European country--most with powerful navies. Many royal families had strong naval links. Both the British and German royal families dressed their children in the new fashion. This reached a peak with the children of George V who wore virtually nothing but sailor suits, except for kilts on visits to Scotland. Gradually the style grew in importance until the 1870s when it had become a major style for boys clothing. By the 1870s sailor suits were one of the most popular styles for boys up to 12 or 13 and even older ages on the Continent. They were still generally worn by younger boys, but by the 1880s the style was being extended to older boys as well who began to commonly wear them. By the late 1880s the style had become almost a uniform for boys and even spread to girls fashions. The sailor seat reached its peak in the 1890s. Few boys in the 1890s did not wear a sailor suit at some time.

The 20th Century

By the early-20th century the sailor suit was among the most popular style for boys and girls. Although we note that the style was more popular in other countries than in England itself. The sailor suit was especially popular in France and Germany, but they were also very popular in America. Sailor suits were very popular for European royals and this must have been a factor for the popularity with the general public, especially the middle-class. The sailor suit continued to be widely worn throughout the Edwardian era. After World War I it began to decline in popularity for boys. Styling became increasingly traditional in the 20th century. A factor here was the popularity among girls. Older boys began turning away from sailor suits, although varird substantially from country to country. Aftr World War II only very young boys wore sailor suits, although many girls' dresses continued to be done with sailor styling.

The 21st Century








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Created: 6:20 PM 3/4/2007
Last updated: 6:20 PM 3/4/2007