Sailor Suits: American Styles--Button-Front Blouse Suits


Figure 1.--This American boy was probably photographed in the 1890s wearing one of the button-front sailor suits that were so popular at the time. He was photographed in Frederick, Maryland. Notice how far the design of his sailor suit has varied from the standard traditional three-stripe detailing. Also notice the stripped dickey or undershirt and large white bow that mother has added.

Many sailor suits in the 19th century were made with button fronts. The styling of these suits varied widely as they were the ones that often diverged from actual uniform designs the greatest. Detailaing was often elaborate and frequently diverged from the traditional three stripes as you can see here (figure 1). Many were also often worn with the colorful large bows that were popular at the time, rather than modest black sailor scarves. They were most commonly worn with kneepants. Unfortunately we often do not know what type of hat was worn with these suits. They were often worn with dickies or stripped undershirt.

Suits

Many sailor suits in the 19th century were made with button fronts. The tops are still middy blouses in that they were not worn tucked in, but bloused over the top of the boy's trousers. Only after the turn of the 20th century do we see more pull-over blouses. The styling of these suits varied widely as they were the ones that often diverged from actual uniform designs the greatest such as the one here (figure 1). The buttons were sometimes used as a decorative device. But for the most part, the buttons were the same color as the suit and were simply a practical fastening decices and not decorative. Gradually by the turn-of-the 20th century the traditional style with three-stripe styling bevame standard. Detailaing was often elaborate and frequently diverged from the traditional three stripes. Part of the idea of a sailoe suit was a sinle comforatable outfit for a boy, but mothers being mothers we see bows a stiff collars being added. Many were also often worn with the colorful large bows that were popular at the time, rather than modest black sailor scarves. They were most commonly worn with kneepants. Unfortunately we often do not know what type of hat was worn with these suits. They were often worn with dickies or stripped undershirt. The suits were nmostly wool wool commonly matching the trousers. We don't see many of the light-weight cotton blouse, which were mostly pullovers, that were popular in some European countries. They were usually worn with knee pants and long stockings.

Image

This American boy in the image on this page (figure 1) was probably photographed in the 1890s. The portrait was undated, but we believe the early 1890s is a good approximation. I am not sure how old he is, but would guess 5 or 6 years. He is wearing one of the button-front sailor suits that were so popular at the time. He was photographed in a Frederick, Maryland studio. Notice how far the design of his sailor suit has varied from the standard traditional three-stripe detailing on the "V" collar front and presumably the back sailor flap as well. The cuff detailing is also destinctive as well as bold vertical stripes on the front button flap. A HBC reader writes, "The buttons on the boy's kneepants at the waist are visible (at least one at the left--boy's right--is). The puffiness of the blouse makes me think that the trousers button to a waist or underwear and the sailor blouse hangs over." HBC agrees that this is quite likely, however, the lack of clarity in the image maked it difficult to tell if that really is a button that is visible. Notice that the sleeves are rather short, well above the wrists. This suggests that the boy has had the suit for at least a year, perhaps more and is almost ready for a new one. Perhaps mother wanted his portrait taken in it before biying him a new suit. Also notice the stripped dickey or undershirt and large white bow that mother has added. He has short hair with somewhat off center part. One HBC reader describes it as a modern look. It is true that center parts became popular in the late 1990s, but this off-center part with the hair slicked down looks to HBC as a very destinctive 1890s look.







HBC






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Created: March 28, 2002
Last updated: 3:11 AM 8/2/2019