** English boy clothes -- suits types Norfolk jackets








English Boys Suits: Norfolk Jackets


Figure 1.--This unidentified CDV portrait shows an unidentified London boy wearing a Norfolk jacket with an Eton collar and small bow. The portrait is undated, but looks like the 1870s or early 80s to us. we see veryica; pleats, but no horizontal belt. The studio was Fred Viner in London. Notice he holds a paper. We suspect this suggests that boy wore the suit to school.

The Norfolk suit was created in England. It was widely worn in may nounties, but no where was it so widely worn as is England. The Norfolk jacket is modeled after the hunting suit worn on the estate of the English Duke of Norfolk in the early-19th century. (One source said 18th century, but I don't believe I have ever seen Norfolk jackets in 18th century paintings. Sportsmen on the Duke's estate reportedly first wore what we now call the Norfolk jacket. Guests included the Prince of Wales who became King George IV. Tradition has it that the Prince himself ordered a garment from his tailors that would allow him to swing a gun with grater ease that the tightly fitting, tailored suit jackets he wore. The Norfolk design varied with many variants. The basic design was a jacket with a loose, comfortable fit accross the soulders and chest. The jacket also had box pleats, two in the front and one in the rear which opened and clothes as the individual swivels about. It was a rare garment that was specifically designed rather than adapted for use in sports. It was also a waist-length jacket, We are not sure if it originally had matching trousers. Knickerbocker pants becme associated with it. It was initially an adult style for country wear, but became a popular styles for boys. We have less access to English clothing catalogs than in America, but we note many avialable British photographs showing boys commonly wearing Norfolk jackets. HBC has noted it being commonly worn in Britain during the late-19th century. Early images show vertical pleatrs. We also see many boys wearing Norfolk suits on the early-20th century. We do not begin to see the horizontal belts until the 20th century.

Creation

The Norfolk jacket is modeled after the hunting suit worn on the estate of the English Duke of Norfolk in the early-19th century. (One source said 18th century, but I don't believe I have ever seen Norfolk jackets in 18th century paintings. Sportsmen on the Duke's estate reportedly first wore what we now call the Norfolk jacket. Guests included the Prince of Wales who became King George IV. Tradition has it that the Prince himself ordered a garment from his tailors that would allow him to swing a gun with grater ease that the tightly fitting, tailored suit jackets he wore.

Popularity

The Norfolk suit was created in England. It was widely worn in many counrties, but no where was it so widely worn as is England.

Chronology

The Norfolk suit was initially an adult style for country wear, but became a popular styles for boys. We have less access to English clothing catalogs than in America, but we note many avialable British photographs showing boys commonly wearing Norfolk jackets. HBC has noted it being commonly worn in Britain during the late-19th century. The CDV here is undates, but looks like it was tajen in the 1870s or early-80s (figure 1). Early images show vertical pleats. We also see many boys wearing Norfolk suits during the early-20th century. We do not begin to see the horizontal belts until the 20th century. We note the Schiele boys in the early-20th century weaing collar buttoning and lapel jacket Norfolk suits. They all have Eton collars and neckwear. The boys were Argenines, but living in England. Another good example is Crespal Gordon Stoddart who was vacationing in Southport about 1900. And we note the Rainard boy with his mother and siblings wearing a Norfolk suit and matching cap with in 1912. He has an Eton collar wormn without any neckwear. We have found quite a few images from the 1910s. It is difficult to say if this was because that Norfolk suits wre so popular in the 1910s or reflects our klarger archive of 20th century images.

Jacket Styling

The Norfolk design varied with many variants. We see both collar buttoning and lapel jackts. The basic design was a jacket with a loose, comfortable fit accross the soulders and chest. The jacket also had box pleats, two in the front and one in the rear which opened and clothes as the individual swivels about. It was a rare garment that was specifically designed rather than adapted for use in sports. It was also a waist-length jacket, We are not sure if it originally had matching trousers. Knickerbocker pants became associated with it.

Pants

Most of the images we have found show Ebglish boys wearing Norfolk jackets with knickers. Our archive is limited so we can not make any definitive statements at this time.

Accompanying Clothes

We note many English boys wearing Norfolk suits wore them with Eton collars. They were worn both with and without neckwear. We see this in both the 19th and 20th centuries. Almost always they are worn over rather than dolded under the jacket, p;resumably for best display. The boy here is agood example.






HBC





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Created: 12:09 AM 11/3/2014
Last updated: 2:30 AM 8/25/2021