United States Cut-away Jackets: Cut--Bottom Treatment


Figure 1.--This 1850s Ambrotype shows two unidentified brothers in cut-away jacket suits. Notethe different trearmebt of the jacket bottoms. One boy has the rounded bottom hem and the other a straight hem nd sharp corners. We are not sure why mother would have picked different styles.

Cut-away jackets were done to different lengths. And there were two basic ways of finshing the bottom of the jacket. The bottom of the jacket was often done as a kind of rounded finish.. We also see the botoom done in straight lines ending in a sharp point. And of course there were many gradiations of both basic approaches. We see both in the photographic record, but the rounded jacket bottom was by far the most common. We are not yet sure if there was a chronological pattern. We see both in the 1850s. Ny the 1860s the rounded bottom treatment seens to emerge as the most important. And here we see a square-cut bottom finish about 1870 (figure 1). This is some we plan to pursue in greater detail as HBC expands although the fact that most available images are undated rather complicates this.







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Created: 4:42 AM 8/19/2014
Last updated: 4:42 AM 8/19/2014