Figure 1.--This Wards page offered four different support items: (1) two kinds of suspenders; (2) three kinds of pin-on hose supporters; (3) two kinds of underwaists; (4) four kinds of garter waists. It is notable that all the children's elastic products are advertised together on the same page. |
This Wards page offered four different support items: (1) two kinds of suspenders; (2) three kinds
of pin-on hose supporters; (3) two kinds of underwaists; (4) four kinds of garter waists. It is notable that all the children's elastic products are advertised together on the same page. Note that in the
garter waist ads, the children (3 girls and a boy) are all wearing the brief style union suits with short legs and short sleeves. Many of the earlier ads showed these garments being worn with long underwear. This seems to be an indication that long stockings in 1940 were being wornmore for looks and formality than for warmth. It was becoming unpopular to have a lumpy look on the children's legs, which was almost
unavoidable if long stockings were worn on top of long johns.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
These suppor garments designed in part for long stockings were offered in the Wards 1940-41 Fall and Winter catalog. They would thus be purchased primarily for going back to school.
Note that in the garter waist ads, the children (3 girls and a boy) are all wearing the brief style union suits with short legs and short sleeves. Many of the earlier ads showed these garments being worn with long underwear. This seems to be an indication that long stockings in 1940 were being wornmore for looks and formality than for warmth. It was becoming unpopular to have a lumpy look on the children's legs, which was almost +unavoidable if long stockings were worn on top of long johns. The short underwear insured a neater, more form-fitting and classier look. Also heating arrangements by 1940 were more modern so that children in homes and classrooms didn't need to dress as warmly even in the severe
winter month.
Notice also that the stockings worn are all in tan or beige shades, not black, although black stockings could still be purchased. Beige or tan stockings for both boys and girls had become
the norm by the 1940s. The different grades of hose supporters, underwaists, and garter waists (several choices in all the categories) would seem to confirm that long stockings were still fairly widely
worn.
The children in the photographs seem to be about 8 or 9 years old. The pin-on supporters come in sizes up to ten years of age. The garter waists and one of the underwaists come in sizes up to 12 years
of age. The suspenders (for holding up leggings, skirts, shorts, and slacks) seem to be a one-size-fits-all item because the elastic straps can be adjusted for length.
Wards labeled this page at the top, "Comfortable, Flexible Supports for Stockings . . .
Shoulders ... Clothing". This Wards page offered four different support items: (1) two kinds of suspenders; (2) three kinds of pin-on hose supporters; (3) two kinds of underwaists; (4) four kinds of garter waists. It is notable that all the children's elastic products are advertised together on the same page.
These were standard suspenders to hold up trousers and skirts. There were two different types offered.
The Wards ad copy read, "For leggings, shorts, slacks, skirts. Metal clasp grips, no buttons
needed! Shipping weight 3 oz.; 2, 5 oz. Leather pad in back. 1/2-inch
elastic. Colors: blue, maroon. State color. Each 9 cents. Two for 17
cents."
The Wards ad copy read, "Our finest. Sturdier, heavier, longer wearing. Rayon twill covered.
Well-woven 3/4 inch elastic. Four clasps on four straps--front and
back. Blue or maroon with stripe. State color. Each 25 cents. Two for
48 cents."
Wards offered three different grades of garters or pin-on hose supporters. Although black hose supporters were more common in earlier decades, white is now the dominant color. It was possible to wash
supporters from time to time whereas in the past the harsh boiling methods of typical laundering tended to deprive the garters of their elasticity. The highest age is now ten rather than twelve, as in
earlier years, which suggests that older children wore long stockings less often than older boys and girls. All of these garters emphasize the elasticity of the top section and the non-elastic pendants below. Over time the manufacturers discovered that if the pendants were elastic as well as the top part, the supporters wore out more quickly. All of the examples here have safety pins at the top for attaching to the garter tabs of underwaists or waist union suits. The safety pin attachment had almost totally replaced attachment by buttons, which some earlier models had used.
The Wards ad copy read, "Thrift Special Garters, 9 cents pair. Quality Rayon Lisle Elastic webbing. Have adjustable metal fittings and pendants are non-elastic. Rubber-covered buttons help prevent
stocking tears. Much better quality than usual at this low price. Black or white. Sizes: 1-3, 3-5, 5-7, 7-10. State size and color. Shipping wt. 2 oz.; 2, 3 oz. Each, pair 9 cents; 2 Pairs 17 cents."
The Wards ad copy read, "Permoflex Elastic, 19 cents Pair.
Mercerized Lisle. Cotton yarn spun tightly around each rubber thread
prevents runs, retains elasticity. Good grip buttons on non-elastic
pendants. Adjustable white enamel fittings. White only. Sizes: 1-3,
3-5, 5-7, 7-10. State size. Ship. weight., 2 oz. 31 B 2048--Pr. 19
cents; 2 Prs. 37 cents."
The Wards ad copy read, "Famous Hickory Brand, 19 cents Pair
Extra long wearing. Firm Lisle elastic. Non-elastic pendants.
Securely fastened rust-proof metal fittings. Adjustable Rubber covered
grip buttons and fastener tip helps keep stockings from tearing.
Attached safety pin for fastening onto other clothing. Sizes: 1-3,
3-5, 5-7, 7-10. State size. White. Ship. wt. 2 oz. 31 B 2082--Pair 19
cents; 2 Pairs for 37 cents.
The two models shown here are labeled "Garter Waists", but are actually "underwaists" according to
HBC terminology (since they were sold without the supporters already attached). But the chief purpose, as shown by the advertiser's terminology, is to hold up long stockings. Note, however, that both
models have waist buttons for the attachment of other clothing such as panties, short trousers, skirts, or other outer clothing. Wards apparently assumed that the main purchasers of these waists would be
mothers whose children needed them for the support of full-length stockings. This same type of garment was occasionally referred to as a "panty waist" or "pantie waist". Note, for instance, Lane Bryan's
terminology in 1935.
Wards offered four different types of garter waists. The section was labeled "Adjustable "Free Action" Garter Waists ... Help Correct Posture". All four of these garter waists are unisex--equally
suitable for boys and girls from ages 2 to 12. In each case the
garment comes with the hose supporters already attached. These
garments are designed to allow for the greatest freedom of movement for
active children and to minimize the feeling of restriction. Three of
the garter waists support the stockings by a combination of shoulder
and waist construction whereas the fourth type has the garters
suspended from the shoulders only. The shoulders-only arrangement
seems to have been less popular with children because it could cause
the child to stoop over despite the claim that all of these waists help
"correct posture." The health claim about posture, although commonly
voiced in these advertisements, seems to have been something of a
delusion. Garter waists were an efficient means of holding up long
stockings neatly and fairly comfortably but had little actual effect on
posture.
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