Figure 1.--The gingham smock on the left (964182) was for boys and girls and was a school smock. Note the back bow. The smock on the right (964188) was just for girls, but I am not sure that it was for school wear.
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Figure 1.--The gingham smock on the left (964182) was for boys and girls and was a school smock. Note the back bow. The smock on the right (964188) was just for girls, but I am not sure that it was for school wear. |
The Paris department store Au Printemps offered several different smocks in a February 9 newspaper advertisement. Most
were for girls, but one back buttoning gingham smock could be worn by boys and girls. Some of these smocks do not appear
to be school smocks. They included styles that we have not norted before World War I (1914-18). They were generally short
cut smocks compared to the realtively long smocks worn before the War.
Au Printemps is a Paris deparment store. We know very little about the store at this time. The large newspaper ad suggests that it was an important store.
Au Printemps offered five diferent styles of smocks.
The ad copy for this school copy read, "Tablier en Vichy, à carreaux bleus et blancs, empiècement doublé et gansé. Longueurs: 0m.40 Fr 5.25, 0m.45 Fr 6.25, 0m.50 Fr 7.25, 0m.55 Fr 8.25, 0m.60 Fr 9.25, 0m.65 Fr 10.25, 0m.70 Fr 11.25, 0m.75 Fr 12.25, and 0m.80 Fr 13.25." This would translate as, "Smock in ginham, with blue and white squares, doubled smocking and gansé. Gansé is a sewing term concerning the liserais trimm. Lengths and prices: 0m.40 Fr 5.25, 0m.45 Fr 6.25, 0m.50 Fr 7.25, 0m.55 Fr 8.25, 0m.60 Fr 9.25, 0m.65 Fr 10.25, 0m.70 Fr 11.25, 0m.75 Fr 12.25, and 0m.80 Fr 13.25." A French reader tells HBC that this smock was a school smock and worn by both boys and girls. Notably the gendervwas not specified, while all the other smocks on the page were specified as girls' smocks. As the page itself is labeled "Linge pour enfants," (garments for children), the clear assumption was that this smock was for both genders. The smock was made in sizes up to about 0.8 meters that would be approximately a 12?-year old. As the smock was worn by boys and girls, it is not clear to what age boys wore them. It is likely that most 12-year olds wearing this style were girls.
This smock was for older girls. The ad copy read, "Tablier en nansouk fileté, orné empiècement, poches et bande au bas en percale imprimée. Mêmes nuances que le n° 964187. Long: 0m.65 Fr 10.90, 0m.70 Fr 12.05, 0m.80 Fr 13.20, 0m.90 Fr 4.35, 1m Fr 15.50." This would translate as, "Smock in nansouk (silk) [?threaded], decorated smocking, pockets and tape with printed percale bottom. Same nuances as n° 964187: 0m.65 Fr 10.90, 0m.70 Fr 12.05, 0m.80 Fr 13.20, 0m.90 Fr 4.35, 1m Fr 15.50." (A Swiss reader rports, "I don't know how to translate 'fileté' either. We use it today for a threaded screw.)
Figure 2.--The smock on the left (964187) looks like it was made for younger children at home, it would not have been worn to school. The smock at right (964186) was just for girls and would also have been worn at home. |
This smock was for younger children. The ad copy read, "Tablier de jeu en nansouk fileté, orné biais et motifs 'poussins' tons opposés. Se fait en écru, framboise rose, bleu, orange, jade, jaune et mauve. Longueurs: 0m.40 Fr 4.90, 0m.45 Fr 5.40, 0m.50 Fr 5.90, 0m.55 Fr 6.40, 0m.60 Fr 6.90, 0m.65 Fr 7.40." This would translate as, "Play smock in nansouk (silk) [?threaded], 'chicks' decoration in contrasting shade. Is done in unbleached, raspberry pink, blue, orange, jade, yellow and mauve. Lengths: 0m.40 Fr 4.90, 0m.45 Fr 5.40, 0m.50 Fr 5.90, 0m.55 Fr 6.40, 0m.60 Fr 6.90, 0m.65 Fr 7.40. A size 0.65 m smock would fit a ?-year old child. Tnis was a smock for play at home. Note the bright colors, they would not have been worn to school.
This smock was for older girls. The ad copy read, "Tablier
en nansouk fileté orné empiècement poches et bande au bas en percale imprimèe. Mêmes nuances que le n° 964187. Longueurs: 0m.65 Fr 10.90, 0m.70 Fr 12.05, 0m.80 Fr 13.20, 0m.90 Fr 14.35, 1m Fr 15.50." This would translate as, "Decorated smock in nansouk (silk) [?threaded] smocking pockets and tape with printed percale at the bottom hem. Same nuances as the n° 964187. Lengths: 0m.65 Fr 10.90, 0m.70 Fr 12.05, 0m.80 Fr 13.20, 0m.90 Fr 14.35, 1m Fr 15.50."
Note how the garments are priced by the age of the child with the larger sizes requiring more fabric, substantially more expensive. This is common in French clothing ads through the 1930s. Clothes are no longer priced like this. HBC believes that this is in part a reflection that in the fabric was once a much more important component of production costs than today when the labor and marketing costs involved are the major cost, except for especially luxurious fabrics.
HBC makes every effort to translate the French ad cpy as it often includes interesting details about the garments. We here at HBC do not speak French, but we know many French terms. Our French readers assist as best they can. The ad copy because they often use dated or trade words are not easy to translate. We encourage readers to comment on the translations if they have any insights or comments.
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