Figure 1.--Delineator suggested that this dress be made in grey serge and black velvet trim. Notice that this version has no lace trim, but velvet as wrist trim.
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Figure 1.--Delineator suggested that this dress be made in grey serge and black velvet trim. Notice that this version has no lace trim, but velvet as wrist trim. |
The fasion magazine Delineator published these illustrations with explanatory text in 1890.
This stylish little dress is shown made of gray serge, black velvetribbon and buttons contributing the trimming. It is also shown developedin plaid gingham and decorated with narrow hamburg edging. Dress goodsof all varieties will develop satisfactorily for the mode, but cheviot,tweed, flannel, and gingham in checks or plaids are most favored. Braidor stitching may form the finish, and velvet may be employed for thecollar, cuffs and belt sections. A pretty development of the mode unitesscotch plaid wool goods and black velvet with tiny black ball buttonsfor decoration. The jacket fronts are of velvet, and so are the beltsections and collar; and the wrists are finished with pointed cuff andvelvet that are decorated at the back with a cluster of buttons. Ages two to six years.
The Delineator artcle provides the following insights on 1890 fashion trends. Note how the same basic dress style could be used for highly varied outfits. By selecting the style and size of the collar and wrist trim, material, color, as well as ribbon, velvet, and button trim, mothers could style the basic dress to their linking. Embroidery and braiding could also be added.
The styling of this skirted garment is clearly defined as a boys' dress. I am not positive about just what makes this a plaid dress. Perhaps the jacket rather than a obe-piece outfit is a factor. The rather palain lightly accent style may be another factor. Also I believe that the plaid material by the 1890s was increasingly considered a boys' material.
Figure 2.--Delineator suggested that the plaid version have modest lace trim at the collar and wrist cuffs. Fauntleroy suits in 1890 often came with very elabrate lace collars and wrist trim. |
The dress is suggested for serge and ginham. Other suggested materials are cheviot, tweed, flannel, and gingham in checks or plaids are most favored.
The article also suggests mixing materials such as scotch plaid wool goods and black velvet.
The suggested color is grey or plaid.
Black velvet ribbon and buttons are used in the trim of the grey serge suit. Hamburg edging is used for the plaid ginham dress. Braid or stitching are used to accent the dress.
Velvet may be employed for the collar, cuffs and belt sections. Wrist cuffs can be pointed lace trim and velvet that are decorated at the back with a cluster of buttons. The plaid version is show with lace edging at the collar.
The dress is made to fit boys from 2 to 6 years. This would men that it might be commonly worn by boys through the age of 7 years.
An HBC contributor reports, "I notice on the 1890 boys' dress page, the Delineator fashion drawing has the boy wearing short hair. It makes me wonder whether this was done so that it was more appealing to fathers, which I tend to think not, or whether the fashion of long hair was being deemphasized. Such as the slight changes in fashion we see today. A great deal of time is necessary to execute a drawing, so I imagine there was a good reason why short hair was chosen. Especially since, the 1889 Fauntleroy outfits page made a point of emphasizing long hair in an older child. Does HBC have any thoughts?"
Interesting thoughts. One element to consider, if the boy was deawn with curls--he would no longer look like boy in a dress. This rather much forced the illusrator to draw the nodel for a boys' dress with short hair. Otherwise it would look like a girl in a dress. Note in the drawing the whip and boys' pull toy. Don't forget that the care and outfitting of younger children was the mother's province. Thus father would be unlikely to read The Delineator and choose outfits for the younger boy.
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