French Fashion Publications and Children's Fashions: Le petit écho de la Mode


Figure 1.--A HBC reader reports that this page appeared in "Le petit echo de la mose" during the 1930. we blieve the child in the lower right hand corner was a boy earing a one-piece shorts outfit. We have not noted actual photographs of French boys earing this outfit.

Le Petit Eccho de la Mode had many patterns for boys, the opposite of Femmes d'Aujourd'hui, another popular magazine in the 1950s, which primarily had clothing for girls and women. The title means, "Small review of fashion". This suggests a fashion magazine for children, but this was not the case as it included fashions for both children and adults. It also included material on housekeeping, cooking, and entertaument. We have archived several images from Le petit écho de la mode on HBC. The magazine was apparently founded in 1879, but we have no examples of the early issues. We have noted issues from the 1930s through the 1950s, but are not sure as to the publishing run. Some of the most fashionabl children clothes appeared in Le petit Echode la Mode. We note a fancy romper suit in the Christmas 1949 issue. Le Petit Eccho de la Mode became L'écho de la mode, but I am not sure just when the title was changed.

Content

Le Petit Eccho de la Mode had many patterns for boys, the opposite of Femmes d'Aujourd'hui, another popular magazine in the 1950s, which primarily had clothing for girls and women. The title means, "Small review of fashion". This suggests a fashion magazine for children, but this was not the case as it included fashions for both children and adults. It also included material on housekeeping, cooking, and entertaument. We have archived several images from Le petit écho de la mode on HBC.

Chronology

The magazine was apparently founded in 1879, but we have no examples of the early issues. We have noted issues from the 1930s through the 1950s, but are not sure as to the publishing run. Some of the most fashionabl children clothes appeared in Le petit Echode la Mode. Le Petit Eccho de la Mode became L'écho de la mode, but I am not sure just when the title was changed.

Fashions

We note a fancy romper suit in the Christmas 1949 issue. we are not sure to what extent the magazine focused on fancy, dressy styles or more orinary clothing to be orn every day. Of course as the magazine published over serveral decaces, this may have changed over time. A Frnch reader tells us that the illustrations and patterns that were very inflential in fashion circles. Many clothing companies used the fashions from the magazine for inspirtion in their clothing lines.

History

We have some infomation on the history of the magazine. It includes some interesting material on the early years, althoughthe morerecnt nformatin appears to be more about labor managemnt relkationsthan the magazine.

1880s

Charles Huon de Penanster, a young senator of Coast-of-North, in January 1880 purchased a bankrupt magazine that had been founded in 1879--Le Petit Echo de la Mode. De Penanster turns it into a fashion magazine dedicated to helping mothers not only learn how to sew clothing, cook, and keep house, but also to improve their general culture and to entertain them.

1900s

Thepress run of the magazxine by 1900 reached 0.3 million copies. The company does its own prining. The company in 1901 purchases a Paris XlVe street site on Gazan street near Montsouris Park. It is a site with 4,000 m2 for the company's ofices and printing plant. Senator de Penanster died in 1902. The magzine is made a limited company. Emmanuel Shoed, a friend and associate of Senator de Penanster is appointed president. Jean of Cognets, a young Breton lawyer, is hired by Mrs. Huon de Penanster, widow of the senator, to oversee publicity for the company. He quickly becomes the company's deputy manager.

The 1910s

World War I which began in 1914 greatly affected the company's operations. The business is folded up in Nantes for a few weeks and functions in the province, before eventually returning to Paris.

The 1920s

The company reorganizes in 1920. Charles-Albert de Penanster, son of the founder, and Leon Berteaux [?directing of the Cross], are named administrators. Jean of Cognets, is named director. There was a need to expand the printing plant. The company decided rather than to expand the Paris printing plant. Instead they decide to acquire a provincial plant. Charles-Albert de Penanster, who is to advise [?general Coast-of-North] and is familiar with the Department knows about a priting plant at Châtelaudren. It functions with a turbine powered by a pond. Thy decide to convert it into a facility producing patterns and printing works for the magazine. It provided work to people in the Coast-of-North region. The company recrits Mr. Brossard, a specialist in printing works, from the printing works of Touraine. He comes to live Châtelaudren. The printing works is opened on February 28, 1923 Charles-Albert de Penanster dies prematurely, after a 3 month illness. He leaves 15 orphan children, the youngest only 10 days old. Charles-Marie de Penanster, the second son who was working toward his [?Agro] to enter the National Forestry Commission, stop his studies there and begins the study of [?Right] so he can become administrator of e Petit Echo de la Mode in Paris.

1930s

Charles-Marie de Penanster in 1930 marries Jacqueline de Pluvié whose family has a house at Saint-Quay-Portrieux. Leon Berteaux who had become president dies in 1938. Jacques May, banker and insurer in Balkans, grandson of Shoed Emmanuel, is named president. He is pressed on Jean of Cognets and Charles-Marie de Penanster general manager. At the beginning of 1939 A fire of chemicals with Châtelaudren mortally poisons eight people, including Mr. Brossard, director of printing works. The direction of the printing works of Châtelaudren is entrusted to Jeanne and Emmanuel Brossard, children of the late director.

1940s

France is invaded and occupied by Germny in 1940. During the occupation, German censors control the press. The company of Le Pitit Echo dela Mode is adversely affected because it bears the name of a publication. Jean of Cognets and Charles-Marie de Penanster thus change the name of the company to Editions of Montsouris. The company continues to produce Le Petit Echo de la Mode , but with the new compny name, it attracts less attention from the Germans and can ebgage in various legal acrobatics vis-a-vis the censor. The printing works of Châtelaudren prints popular novels for ladies (Stella collection), for teenagers (Printemps collections. Pierrot and Lisette) and important literary works (Dauphine collection). It also functions like regional printing works for various customers. The factory of Châtelaudren has three activities then: the fashion industry (magazines and patterns, of owners of seam (Owners - models), impression of routein booklets for Montsouris, and of work of labour for the regional customers. A technician, Mr. Philiponnet, is engaged as dputy manager. The composition of the text for publication is done then on the keyboard Linotype machines.

1950s

Charles-Marie de Penanster in 1957 to expand Montsouris publications, builds a modern printing plant at Massy. It is opened in May 1957. Engineer George Boisson is appointed director. The speed of technical inovaions in offset printing, obliges the company each year to make expensive investments. Jacques May wants to fund these improvemnts through self financing, without recourse to the banks. The investments in the Massy plant are done to the detriment of those working in the publications and the modernization of Châtelaudren plant.

1960s

Editions de Montsouris encountered two severe problems in 1960. First, the Grenelle Agrements in June impose substntial wage increases. As a result, wages increase which forces the company to raise magazine and publicatin prices and printing fees. As a result many customers are lost. Second, the Government for the first time beginning in October allows tlevision advertising. As a result, advertising executives shift spending from the family press to the new broadcast media. Advertising revenues of Montsouris publications in 1969 are falling sharply. Pierre Beytout sells the pattern department.

1970s

The company in June 1970 have to lay off 450 people at the Paris headquarters. The printing plant at Massy is affected by the general crisis in the printing industry. works of press. Jean-Claude Olivo dvertising draughtsman and photoengraver in 1973 [?feels it Malayan to move into the house]. He leaves Le Petit Echo de la Mode and [?settles on his account with the "Press" in Plélo]. He conceives all work intended to be printed and is thus [?upstream chain]. Charles-Marie de Penanster died in In November 1972. The first wave of dismissals began May 2, 1977. Mr. Henri Philippe asks to be [?"lying" on the list maudite]. He buys material left almost with the [?rebus], rents buildings belonging to the "great printing works" and launches his own business--"the Printing works of Leff".

1980s

Mr. Philippe and its wife at the printing works of Leff proposes to make any printed paper form. The photocomposition workshop was closed in November 1981. Four of the paid bachelors, under the leadership of Xavier Guymard recover all the material of the workshop and request authorization retain the buildings and decide to assemble the S.C.O.P "Châtel- Compo". Their business succeeds and 2 1/2 years later, M. Guymard and its collaborators transfer their business to th artisanal zone of Plouagat. Their work to make page-setting, photocomposition, and also complete general printing works through subcontracting. Alain Speybroëck in September 1983 feels in his turn the danger with [?a large D]. It is placed on the list of the bachelors and proposed acquiring two "four color" presses . With his comrade Philippe Heyn, they create "S.H. Imprimeurs". They contrct a public relations and commercial expert Mr. Bernard Jégu who adresses the marketing problems. The result is an enormous jump i sales. S.H. can produce any printed paper form (folders, plates...) in record time, thanks to the flexibility of operation of the two machines. The printing works of Châtelaudren closes its doors November 24, 1983 definitively. Claude Gantier, laid off in December 1982, sets up his workshop. He installs "Grafic-art-22" on the artisanal zone of Plélo. 25 million centimes of building, 50 million material, it was necessary to dare in this period known as difficult... and that, with the support of a person only, his wife, who became her partner and her secretary. In this workshop of photoengraving color, Claude Gantier developed a process selection of colors which makes it possible to remove the catch of sight, which will be worth soon a patent to him. This enables him to work directly on the original from where a definitely higher reproduction for example when they are tables. Under the action of a P.D.G. Parisian, Mr. Hytterhagen, May 2, 1984 Sigma-Prim, company of a score of units took his departure. This new company engages part of the 80 workers laid off for economic reasons in November. Sigma-Prim closes its doors In 1989. The old ones of LePetit Echo de la Mode take over the buildings and the material. It is the birth of Roto-Armor.

1990s

Roto-Armor in May 1993 is equipped with a new rotary printing-press 8 pages. The company offers the complete printing of catalogues and leaflet starting from the images which are provided. Roto-Armor installed its reputation on the quality of its work.

Sources

Anonamous. "L'IMPRIMERIE DU "PETIT ÉCHO DE LA MODE" À CHÂTELAUDREN.






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Created: February 20, 2003
Last updated: Februry 20, 2003