Figure 1.-- This ambrotype portrait shows an unidentified boy seated and wearing a military-style collar-buttoning jacket. There are is a column of eight vertical buttons showing with seven buttoned. We are not sure what the horizonal row of buttons is all about. The brass buttons that may be eagle buttons. Note the unusual breast pocket which appears to be repeated on the other side. He has what may be a detachable collar with a stock that is tied so bow-lije tails show. The boy has short hair. The portrait is undated, but we would guess was taken in the late-1850s. The stock in particular looks more like the 50s than the 60s. It is a 6th plate-Ambro with ornate gilt mat and full case. The image is from the Stockbridge, Massachusetts area, approximately 3.5 x 2.7".

We do know these military jackets continued to be popular in the 1850s. The memory of the Mexican-American War (1846-48) and the fashion influenced presumably persisted. Destinuigishing 1840s and 59s Daguerreotypes, however, continues to be a problem in assessing in establishing the chronology of these military jackets. We think the bold patterned pants worn with them were less common in the 1850s, especially by the late-50s. At least we increasingly see matching jackets and pants in the late-50s. This was cdrtainly the case by the 60s which is confirmed by all the CDV portraits. This is difficult to establish in the 50s with any certainty because of the limited number of dated Dags. We do have a good idea about the second half of the 50s because of the appearance of Ambrotypes. Ambrotypes like Dags were not dated, but are generally associated with a nanarrow time frame--the mid-1850s to rhe early-50s. Thus we can not be positive Ambros were taken in the 50s, but the great bulk were taken in the mid- and late-50s because the CDV very rapidly became the principal photographic format in the early-60s. Neckwear and collar as well as hair rends can also be helpful in dating these images. They were commonlyb worn with white collars, neckwear was common, but optional.

The 1850s

We do know these military jackets continued to be popular in the 1850s. The memory of the Mexican-American War (1846-48) and the fashion influenced presumably persisted. Destinuigishing 1840s and 59s Daguerreotypes, however, continues to be a problem in assessing in establishing the chronology of these military jackets. We do have a few dated Dags and Anvros which is helpful, although some are confusing. We do have a good idea about the second half of the 50s because of the appearance of Ambrotypes. Ambrotypes like Dags were not dated, but are generally associated with a nanarrow time frame--the mid-1850s to the early-50s. There were no 1840s Ambros. We can not be positive Ambros were taken in the 50s, but the great bulk were taken in the mid- and late-50s because the CDV very rapidly became the principal photographic format in the early-60s.

Ages

We are not yet sure about the ages of the boys wearing these jackets. They seem to be mostly pre-teen school age boys.

Collars and Neckwear

The military-styled collar buttoning jackets were commonly worn with white collars, neckwear was common, but optional. Often the collars overlapped the collar or top of the jacket. In other instances it could meerly be seen. Some of the larger collars may have been detachable collars. The collar the boy here is wearing (figure 1) is one of the larger ones we have noted. It could be a detachable collar. Most of the collars were smaller, too small we believe to be detachable collars. Thus they are presumably collars attached to shit waists. Often there ae no cuffs vissible, so we do not know a great deal about the shirt waists. The neckwear when worn looks to be mostlt stocks or stocks beginning to take the form of bows like the one the boy here is waering (figure 1). We mostly notice the stocks and bows done in black.

Pants

We only see these military-styled collar-buttoning jackets worn with long pants. We think the bold patterned pants worn with collar-buttoning jackets less common in the 1850s, especially by the late-50s. This may have been geneally true of gthe military-styled jackets, but we are still in provess of assessing this. At least we increasingly see matching jackets and pants in the late-50s. This was cdrtainly the case by the 60s which is confirmed by all the CDV portraits. This is difficult to establish in the 50s with any certainty because of the limited number of dated Dags. Neckwear and collar as well as hair rends can also be helpful in dating these images.

Created: 10:30 PM 10/22/2011
Last updated: 10:15 PM 1/6/2014