Figure 1.--Here are four different support garments offered by Wards in 1900. For the most part, are not specific to gender. Both boys and girls could wear the first three garments, whereas the fourth is exclusively for boys.
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Figure 1.--Here are four different support garments offered by Wards in 1900. For the most part, are not specific to gender. Both boys and girls could wear the first three garments, whereas the fourth is exclusively for boys. |
Montgomery Ward offered several different types of waists in its 1900 catalogs. This indicates how widely used waists were. The waists offered had a range of popular features. Some of these waists were designed to be gender specific. Others were designed to be worn by both boys and girls.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
Most boys at the turn of the 20th century wore black long stockings. There were other types of hosiery, but long stockings were by far the most common. They were worn both for casual and dress wear. And black was by by far the most common. Younger boys might wear three-quarter white socks or white long stockings when dressing up. One problem with long stockings was that they needed to be held up to look smart.
American children at the turn of the 20th century, both boys and girls, almost universally wore underwaists to hold up outer clothing and long stockings. These underwaists were sleeveless vest-like garments that usually buttoned down the front and had strappings over the shoulder to which waist buttons were sewn for the support of knee pants, skirts, drawers, etc. These underwaists also had cloth tabs, sometimes eyeletted, or tape loops at the sides so that hose supporters could be fastened on. Later on these waists were mainly for children ten years old or younger, but in 1899-1900 boys and girls wore them up until the age of 13.
A page in the Wards 1900 Spring catalog (p. 977) and the Wards 1900-01 Fall-Winter catalog p. 979 offered several differt waists. The page here from an early period provides some useful information. The variety of waists shown in these ads is quite revealing. Note that one of these waists is only for girls, while the Fuller waist (we haven't noted this item before) is for both boys and girls. But the "girl's waist" would also be appropriate for a boy who hadn't yet been breeched. The Child's Daisy Waist is apparently mainly for girls since it is described as a "Hose and Skirt Supporter combined" It comes in sizes
to fit girls from 2 to 14 years. But this waist would also be suitable for a boy who had not yet been breeched and was still wearing skirts. In 1900 the breeching age was usually about 5 or 6. Therefore the ad does not specify girls but calls this a "child's waist." The Fuller Waist is for both boys and girls from 2 to 12 years of age. It is the ancestor of the knitted waist that became very popular in the
1920s, 1930s and 1940s.
This garment should be classified as an Underwaist. Although it has provision for attaching supporters, no garters come with the garment. It is referred to as a "Boys' Special Double Ve Waist". Ward's Spring catalog (1900), p. 977. This is an underwaist for boys aged 2 to 12 years of age with a system of tape reinforcement straps to which waist buttons are attached so that knee pants can be buttoned on (front, sides, and back). The front and side buttons are sewn onto the tape strips in front and on the sides and are stationary. But the three back waist buttons are sewn onto elastic extensions of the tape straps so that they stretch like boys' suspenders and therefore have
greater flexibility.
The Ward's ad copy read, "S 2277 Child's Daisy Waist Hose and Skirt Supporter combined. A great
success. Made of corset jean, with elastic straps; has two rows of buttons, one for panties, the other for skirts. Easily laundered. Made in four sizes. Colors: Black, white and drab [almost like pale kahki
color]. No. 1, 1 to 2 years, length 9 1/2 inches. No 1 only has a diaper attachment. No. 2, 2 to 5 years, length 11 1/2 inches. No. 3, 5 to 8 years, length 12 1/2 inches. No. 4, 8 to 11 years, length 14
inches. [The inches refer to the length of the elastic supporters.] In ordering give size and color. Each $ .40. Per dozen $4.30."
The Ward's ad copy read, "S 2278 The Fuller Waist, made of unbleached stockinet; three garments
in one--shirt, underwaist, stocking supporter--for year-round wear for girls and boys, as it holds skirts, drawers and trousers. Made in 6 sizes, from 2 to 12 years. 45 cents." [Note that in this waist the supporters are attached in front rather than on the sides.]
Here we have four different models of support garments that, for the most part, are not specific to gender. Both boys and girls could wear the first three garments, whereas the fourth is exclusively
for boys. Wards Fall and Winter catalog (1900-1901), p. 979. The first three items here are garter waists although the term "garter waist" wasn't generally used at this time and only came into general parlance in the 1920s and afterwards.
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