Figure 1.--This is a close up of the back of a boys' back buttoning smock worn in the 1950s. Note that there are only two back buttons, one at the collar and one on the smock itself. Also note that the waistband buttons in the back. This smock has very simple detailing. Some boys's smocks had no detailing at all. Note that the pointed front collar is repeated at the back. Notice the white braid ("croquets") at the collar. |
There were also stylistic differences in the smocks. After the 1960s, front buttoning smocks for boys becane more common. But through the 1950s both boys and girls generally wore back buttoning smocks. While the both wore back buttoning smocks, there were generally recognized stylistic differences. One of the principal differences were that girl's smocks tied in a bow at the back like many dresses. Young boys wearing rompers might have back tieing bows, but boys' school smocks did not. Boys' smocks also had waist bands, but they buttoned in the back and did not tie in the back like girls' smocks often did. Many boys' smocks were collarless. Boys' smocks that did have collars generally had pointed collars while girls more commonly had rounded Peter-Pan collars. While these stylistic elements are not always a perfect indicator, they do help to identify the gender intended for the smock. This is complicated by the fact that not every mother followed these guidlines. The use of hand-me-downs in particular might complicate matters. There were also smocks that could be worn by either gender, although these non-gender smocks often followed the commonly established guidelines for boys' smocks.
From a stylistic view many of the differences between boys' and girls' smocks were small. And it was not unknown for a child to wear an older brother's or sister's smock, especially in the late 19th and early 20th century. In this regard it was orobably more common for a girl to wear an older brother's smock than a boy to wear an older sister's smock. In addition some somocks were made gender neutal which usually mean using the boys' styling. Butv although the differences may have been small, this does not mean that boys did not notice them and the differences were not very important to them. A French reader going to school in the late 1940s and 50s writes, "The different styles for boys and girls were easily recognizable to us. None of us boys wanted to wear a girl's smock. We would have been teased about it."
There are several stylistic differences in French school smocks that commonly were associated with gender. The buttoning and back bow are perhaps the two most important, but they were not the only elements involved. After the 1960s, front buttoning smocks for boys became more common. But through the 1950s both boys and girls generally wore back buttoning smocks. One of the principal differences were that girl's smocks tied in a bow at the back like many dresses. Boys' smocks also had waist bands, but they buttoned in the back and did not tie in the back like girls' smocks often did. This is a very important factor. Boys except for the very youngest did not wear smocks with back tieing bows. A French reader tells us that there were also differences in the skirt (bottom partt) of the smock. The skirt of a boys' smock might be pleated--usually quite large pleats. Girls; smocks on the other hand were done with a kind of gathering of the cloth (in French: "plissé"). Many boys' smocks were collarless. Boys; smocks that did have collars generally had pointed collars while girls more commonly had rounded Peter-Pan collars.
It was no only stylistic elements that had gender connotations, but there were also colors and patterns that were strongly associated with boys and girls. These variations were less established for younger boys, but were stronly associated with the smocks for oloder boys. These differences have proven difficult to develop. HBC has noted much more variation among colors and patterns than was the case for some of the stylistic variations. There has also been more variations over time. As HBC does not yet have extensive time-line information on Fench school smocks, we can not yet speak authoitatively on the gender connventions in colors and patterns. We beloeve, however that mothers afhered less strictly to these comventions that was the case for some of the stylistic convntions. Colors and paterns are indeed an important aspect of school smocks. HBC has, however, begun to collect some information on this topic and hopes tgo develop it in more detail as we acquire more information.
While these stylistic elements are not always a perfect indicator, they do help to identify the gender intended for the smock. There are, however, several complications which make it difficult to always establis the genderal of a child wearing a scgiol smock or at least the gender intended for the smock. Not every mother followed the established guidlines, not matter how well acceped they may be. The use of hand-me-downs in particular might complicate matters. There were also smocks that could be worn by either gender, although these non-gender smocks often followed the commonly established guidelines for boys' smocks. nother major complication is that many of these factors changed over time.
The smock seen here in figure 1 is a typical style made for boys 2-10 years old. This particular smock dates to the 1950s. It is is size 50 cm which might have been worn by a boy about 5 years old. The waist strap/belt rather than a back tieing bow ear marks it as a boys' rather than a girls' smock. Notice the white braid ("croquets") at the collar.
