** lederhosen: construction--belts








Lederhosen: Construction--Belts


Figure 1.--Note that these French Scouts wear their lederhosen without halters. Some boys have belts, but there are no belt loops on their lederhosen.

Lederhosen are made to be worn with a usually decorative halter that holds them up. Most folk costumes have highly decorative halters. Younger boys wearing lederhosen almost always wear halters. We have noticed that older boys, especially Scouts, tend to wear their lederhosen without the halter. We are not sure if they were purchased without halters or that the boys have discarded the halters. We are not sure why the halter is not popular with the older boys, perhaps they do not like the folk dress association. Or perhaps they see it as a juvenile style. Often the older boys who have discarded the halter add a belt. Some boys wear their lederhosen without a halter or belt. We have noted, however, many boys wearing their lederhosen with a belt. We are not sure just what the purpose of this is. Lederhosen do not normally come with belt loops so the belt appears largely ornamental as it does not hold up the lederhosen. Perhaps some lederhosen are made for older boys with belt lops, but we have not yet noted that. The belt may have some practical purposes, especially for Scouting as a variety of items can be attached to the belt. This would make it handy for hiking and camping even if it was not attached to the lederhosen pants.

Halter

Lederhosen are made to be worn with a often decorative halter that holds them up. Most folk costumes have highly decorative halters. Through the 1940s, boys wearing lederhosen almost always wore the halter with them. The one notable exception was Hitler Youth boys. Normally the alter was composed of two over the shoulder narrow straps that crossed at the back. Buttons connected the halter to the shorts at front an back. In the front the shoulder straps were connected with cross pieces of different sizes and shapes, usually oval. The straps had clasps which could adjust the length for proper fit as the boy got older. Commonly the cross pieces were decorated with Alpine symbols like dear and flowers (Edelweiss).

Halter Popularity

Younger boys wearing lederhosen almost always wear halters. We have noticed that older boys, especially Scouts, tend to wear their lederhosen without the halter. I'm not sure if they were purchased without halters or that the boys have discarded the halters. I'm not sure why the halter is not popular with the older boys, perhaps they do not like the folk dress association. Or perhaps they see it as a juvenile style. This is a widely followed convention common in Germany and other areas of Europe where lederhosen are worn. It is especially common among Scout groups wearing lederhosen.


Figure 2.--Some of the Cubs in this French group wear the halter, but none of the older boys.

Belt Options

Often the older boys do not like wearing a halter. I'm not sure why this is, perhaps they believe that the halter has a juvenile look. At any rate, older boys often discard the halter or buy lederhosen without halters and add a belt. Some of these boys wear their lederhosen without either a halter or a belt. We have noted, however, many boys wearing their lederhosen with a belt. There appear to at least four options that are currently practiced: 1) no belt, 2) a belt worn without any attachment to the lederhosen, 3) a belt worn under the front part of the lederhosen, and 4) a belt worn with lederhosen belt loops. We do not at this time know as to which of these options are most popular. Some can be elected at the boys' discression. The belt loop option, however, requires lederhosen with the loops.

Belt Loops

A HBC reader reports, "Lederhosen with a botton drop-fly typically don't have belt loops, but those with a double zipper fly do. In fact, the double-zippered lederhosen sometimes lack suspender buttons, and so require a belt. This is, however, a very recent type of lederhosen. Zippers only became common in Germany after World War II in the 1950s.

Belt Function

We are not sure just what the purpose is of the belts many boys wear with lederhosen. Most Lederhosen do not normally come with belt loops so the belt appears largely ornamental as it does not hold up the lederhosen. Perhaps some lederhosen are made for older boys with belt lops, but we have not yet noted that. The belt may have some practical purposes, especially for Scouting as a variety of items can be attached to the belt. Items like canteens, pouches, anoraks or other items can be attached so they are handy if needed. This would make the belt useful for hiking and camping even if it was not attached to the lederhosen pants.

Belts and Youth Organizations

One of the first youth groups was the Wandervogel. Many Wandervogel boys wore Lederhosen, some may have worn halters because of the Volkish look. The Wandervoegel youth were not looking for discipline, but for freedom. Combined with a romantic back-to-nature-sentiment in the new industrial age this also made them often wear Lederhosen, as a natural (and not artificial industrial) kind of dress. There were many different groups in the inter-War era. We only have infirnation on the Scouts and Hitler Youth. The Hitler Youth (HJ) after Hitler seized power gradually banned or absorbed other youth groups. The HJ has a iniform that consisted of black corduroy short pants except for the winter. Some boys wore Lederhosen rather than the regulation shorts. Almost always except for the youngest boys, they were worn with belts rather than haltars. After World War II, Scouts units formed again. Here uniforms varied from group to group. We see some groups well kitted out, but generally speaking most Scouts in Germany didn't and don't wear a strict uniform in contrast to the more militarized trend in Britain, and other countries showing more influence from Baden Powell. There are several reasons for this. First, militarization of the youth is thanks to the HJ in modern Germany much more a taboo than elsewhere. Second, Germany didn't have the tradition of school uniforms (it also didn't exist in the Weimar aera or before). Third, the Scout movement in Germany wasn't started and directed by a kind of drill-sergeant like Baden Powell, but for a great part by elder teenagers/young adolescents themselves. So there wa not strict uniform, especialy after the 1960s. There were clothes that many German Scouts chose to wear. And some boys wore Lederhosen, almost always with belts. Important are the shirt (for the insignes) and the neckerchief (in the colours of the special scout group) with that kind of, lets call it like that, serviette-ring to keep it together. But also the special belt with its specific symbol (I don't know what it exactly is - a sword? a flame?) and the words 'Alzeit bereit' ('allways ready') belong to the beloved equipment. Most German Scouts still wear such a traditional kind of belt as a standard. German Scouts tended to prefer Lederhosen of the double-zipper-type without halter and with beltloops (not only because the traditional type of Lederhosen will be regarded as less sporting as such).







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Created: July 23, 2001
Spell checked: July, 23, 2001
Last updated: 10:41 AM 12/29/2020