Figure 1.--This American boy from Orange, New Jersey, wears a dress kilt with Highland regalia. HBC does not know if he actually comes from a Scottish family. The photograph was taken in 1902.
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Figure 1.--This American boy from Orange, New Jersey, wears a dress kilt with Highland regalia. HBC does not know if he actually comes from a Scottish family. The photograph was taken in 1902. |
Actual Scottish kilts were not extensively worn in America. Some wealthy American families like the Rossevelts did dress their boys in kilts complete with sporrans. This was most common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, but did not entirely disappear after World War I. Malcolmn Forbes was dressing his boys in kilts even in the 1950s. His son and presidential candidate, Steve Forbes didn't like it one little bit. Kilts are seen in American at Highland gatherings
and other ethic events, including Greek and Irish events. While only wealthy American boys in the 19th and early 20th centuries
wore proper Scottish kilts with Highland regalia, many more boys wore the kilt suits that were popular in the late 19th Century, not only for wealthy boys but for middleclass families of modest means. American mothers began using the kilt suit as an intermediate step between dresses and outfits with kneepants, such as Fauntleroy suits and sailor suits. These mothers were not yet ready to fully breech their sons, but felt that they were becoming to old to still wear dresses. This may have been more acceptable to fathers than actual dresses.
The Higland kilt is not commonly associated with America, but American boys did wear them, especially in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
When Queen Victoria dressed the princes in Highland kilts during the 1840s, she popularized the kilt as a boy's outfit. She created a fashion sensation. The style spread to Europe. American mothers who looked to Englad an Europe for their fashion inspiration by the mid-1850s had begun adopting the style for their sons. American fashion magazines were soon depicting kilts as fashionable boys wear and this continued until the turn of the century. Godeys Lady Book and Magazine in 1870, for example, described a Scottish outfit: "Short pleated skirt striped silk poplin. Jacket of gros grain with square-cut basques black braid trim. Full cambric shirt, no waistcoat." [Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine, January 1870, p.108.] Wealthy American families like the Rossevelts commonly dress their boys in kilts complete with sporrans or various forms of Scottish inspired dress. Unlike boys suits and even kilt suits, they were worn with kneesocks (usually Argyles), rather than long stockings. The Higland kilt was not the most common type of kilt worn by American boys, but they were worn by boys in affuent families. They were most common in America during the late 19th Century. Unlike the kilt suit, Highland kilts were mostly worn by boys friom wealthy families. While middle-class boys might wear kilt suits, it was not commonly for them to wear full Highland regalia. Highland kilts were not commonly worn by American boys after the early 20th century, especially after World War I (1914-1918). There were, however, some exceptions. Malcolmn Forbes was dressing his boys in kilts even in the 1950s. His son and presidential candidate, Steve Forbes and his brothers didn't like it one little bit. Especially when their friends would tease them.
There were two styles of Highland kilts, informal and formal kilt styles. Actual Scottish kilts were not extensively worn in America. Although the kilt suit offshoot was rather common. Some Scottish immigrants in the 18th century may have worn kilts, at least upon their arrival. I have, however, little information on this. It is likely that most immigrants quickly conformed to more accepted American clothing. HBC believes, however, that some American boys wore the Higland kilt as a formal dress outfit. In Scotland the Highland kilt was also worn informally. This was not the case in America. Most American boys would have been reluctant to wear kilts to school or informally like Scottish boys. Some wealthy American parents, however, did adopt the Higland kilt as a dress oufit in the late 19th century and in the early 20th century until World War I. HBC is not sure just who was wearing these outfits. Almost sure they were boys from wealthy families. Also it was boys of Scottish ancestry that would be most likely to wear them. HBC believes, however, that some mothers had their boys wear a Higland kilts because they liked the style, not because there were Scottish ancestors. See the example of Hiram Van Vliet Braman, hardly a Scottish name. HBC is unsure what the boys involved thought about the idea. It is likely that it was not very popular, but HBC can not yet confirm this. After the War the kilt became much less common.
America was a major destination for Scottish emmigration. Much of this emmigratiin occurred in the 18th century. The Highland closures and the English supression of the Highland clas after Culloen caused many Scotts to emmigrate. The numbers involved were not massive, primarily because the overall Scottish population was not large. The impact on America, however, was significant, in part because the American population in the 17th century was also small. What HBC does not know is how Scottish emmigrants, adults and children dressed. The kilt was supressed in Scottland after Culloden, but what did they wear when they got to America.
Figure 2.--This American boy wears a typical kiltsuit, probably in the early 1880s. Note the white collar and relatively. Kilt suits were always worn with long stockings. |
While few American boys in the 19th Century
wore proper Scottish kilts
with Highland regalia, many more boys wore the kilt suits that were
popular in the late 19th Century. American mothers used the kilt suit
as an intermediate step between dresses and outfits with kneepants, such as Fauntleroy
suits and sailor suits. These mothers were not yet ready to fully
breech their sons, but felt that they were becoming to old to still
wear dresses. White Higland kilts were most popular with families that
had Scottish
conections, there does not seem to have been any relationship
between kilt suits and Scotland. Mothers of many varied ethnic backgrounds
chose klit suits for their boys. These suits were only worn by
boys. Girls in the 19th Century wore dresses and not kilt suits. These
kilt suits came in many different styles and were
worn with a variety of caps and hair styles. Unlike Higland kilts, they
were always worn with long stockinfs, never with kneesocks. These suits
were typically made for boys from about 3 to 6 years of age. Sometimes
boys as old as 7 or 8 might still wear them, perhaps a few boys
even older. Many mothers considered a boys size rather than his age
to be the determining factor. Often the boy continued to wear the jacket
after he was breeched. Many suits were worn with matching vests.
Hair styles varied from short hair to long ringlet curls.
Figure 3.--American boys wore kilts too. This little American boy (New York) wears a Fauntleroy jacket, ruffled collar, and large bow with his kilt. Not that he does not wear a sporran, a popular accessory in Britain that was virtually unknown in America. |
One popular style during the late 19th Century was the Fauntleroy kilt. The Fauntleroy kilt consisted of a velvet jacket similar or usually identical to the jackets worn with a standard Faunteroy suit. While
Fauntleroy suits came in several dark colors, the black jackets were mostly worn with Fauntleroy kilts. The Fauntleroy kilt jacket was identical to the ones worn with kneepants. They tended to be small so as
to show off the fancy lace and ruffle trimmed blouse to best affect. Boys in Fauntleroy
kilts also wore the large lace collars and floppy bows that were worn with
Fauntleroy suits. The destinguishing characteristic of the Fauntleroy kilt
was of course the kilt. Unlike kilt suits, the kilt worn
with a Fauntleroy kilt was usually a bright plaid of te Hifgland kilt.
Unlike Highland kilts, however, boys mostly wore dark long stockings rather than
kneesocks. The Fauntleroy kilt was the perfect garment for the mother
who was enamored by the Fauntleroy style of lace collar and dark velvet, but did not think
her son was old enough yet to wear knee pants. The Fauntleroy kilt had
the added advantage that the kilt could be replaced with kneepants when the
boy was breeched and he could continue wearing the same jacket.
Figure 4.--This unfortunately poor image shows an American boys wearinf a fancy lace-trimmed blouse and floppy bow with a bright plaid kilt. The photograph was probably taken in the late 1880s or early 1890s. |
The late 19th Century was a formal era. Mant iddle class men did not appear in public in shirt sleeves. Mothers also dressed their boys formally. Most American images of kilted boys show them wearing a jacket. Summer can, however, be quite had. Thus it was acceptable
for boys to just wear a blouse, usually a fanvy blouse, with their kilt if the event was not to formal. A bright plaid was a popular choice for such outfits. Some mothers simply chose the kilt that went with a boy's kilt suit which were generally plain colors or muted
plaids. Even though it was a summer fashion, almost always long
stockings and not knesocks. This was a fashion during the late 19th Century and perhaps into the 1900s, but was little seen by the 1910s.
Museum and personal collections of vintage clothing make it possible to analize clothing in more detaila than is possible with only old photographs. The clarity of the old photographs vary and only show one side. In addition all the old photographs are in black and white. See the example of Hiram Van Vliet Braman for a Highland kilt outfit. There are several other vintage kilts on HBC, but we have just begun this section and thus have not yet had an opportunity to cross reference them.
Kilts in America are of course most assocaited with Scottish Americans. The Scots are, however, not the only ethnic group that count the kilt as part of their traditional national costume. Kilts are seen in American at Highland gatherings and other ethic events, including Greek and Irish events. The style of the kilts, of course,
varies as do the conventions for wearing them.
Greeks are one of the smaller American ethnic groups. Greek ethnic activities are popular annual events throughout America. The events are usually sponsored by Greek Orthadox churches and include Greek food, crafts, jumble sales, dancing and other events. The dancing is usually not costumed, but some of the larger events do
have costumed dancing. Boys participating in these events rarely dress in ethnic costumes. One important annual event for which the children do wear ethnic costumes is the annual Greek Day parade down New York's 5th Avenue in March. Greek costumes vary greatlty depending on the area of Greece. The most common costume worn by boys is a white kilt worn with white tights.
One of the largest and most important American ethnic groups is the
Irish. Unlike the Scotts, there was not a large Irish immigratiin in
the 18th Century. This was in part because colonial America was largely
protestant and most colonies, like England, had establishe protestant
churches. Large numbers of Irish only began immigrating after the
disatrous potato famin of the 1840s. America was still largely protestant,
but legally, if not always in practice, there was a guarantee of
religious liberty. Today about 30 million Americans (anout 10 times the
population of the Irish Republic) identify as being Irish American.
Irish and Celtic events are popular summer activities throughout American.
Boys at these events, unlike Scottish events, do not normally wear
kilts. Some boys do wear kilt costumes for dancing competitions, but
only while performing.
The Scotts are one of the primary ethnic groups which helped to found
modern America. The Scotts began to come in large numbers after the
battle of Culloden (1746) and resulting suppression by the English. The
Scottish enclosures further drove desperate Scotts to leave their homeland.
Highland Gatherings are now held throughout America and include a ethnic food,
sheep shearing, sheep dog trials, caber tosses, dancing, and many other
activities. Boys at Highland gatherings may wear kilts for the event.
American boys participate in various dance programs in which
kilted dance costumes were involved. These included Greek, Irish, and
Sottish dancing programs.
Greek dance costumes consists of a caps, a variety of often elaborately embroidered jackets, white pleated kilts, white stockings, and fancy shoes. A kilt like costume was worn mainly in the central and southern regions of Greece. The costume derives its name from the pleated white skirt (foustanela) made of many triangular shaped pieces of cloth sewn together diagonally. The
foustanela was worn by the Greek fighters of the 1821 revolution and today it serves as the official uniform of the Evzones, Greece’s Presidential Guard, who can be
seen guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Athens.
A costume is required of each dancer entering a competition or performing with the school. Individual school's policies vary as to obtaining a school costume. In the third or fourth year, a dancer may earn the right to wear his/her own "solo" costume. Modern costumes are quite different from those worn historically at feises. The dance costume has changed greatly from traditional garb. Boys doing I rish dance wear either long black pants or kilts. The girls wear dresses, never kilts for performances. Some schools do allow the girls to wear kilts for practice. Reserving the kilts for boys is done in part because the kilt was the ancient Celtic male garment and in part so
the boys aren't dressed like the girls. This would probably discourage many younger boys from
participating in Irish dancing.
Higland dancing along with the kilt are two beloved symbols of Scotland. Its origins lie in the art of
the ancient Celtic Scots. Modern Higland dancing is usually performed solo and is characterized by
its typically sharp movements and the accompanying music. It's typically dance to the tune of the
bagpipes. The dances are made up of different parts, called steps. There are usually four or six steps
to a dance. Traditional Highland Dancing generally refers to a relatively few dances, especially the
Highland Fling, Sword Dance, Seann Truibhas, and the Strathspey and Highland Reel or Reel of
Tulloch. The basic movements in Higland dance are both strong and graceful. The hands are used
expresively, quite different from the traditional dance of the neigboring Celtic people, the Irish.
Higland dance was traditionally performed by Scottish men. Highland dancing is now performed by
both men and women.
Figure 3.--This Chicago boys band, Rodney's Boys Concert Company, selected Higland kilts for their costumes. The costuming is quite elaborate, but not identical.. |
Boys performing in bands or theartical groups might wear kilt costumes.
This was most common in the late 19th and early 20th Century. I do not
have much information on this, but available images show that Highland
regalia was usually chosen for the kilt costume. There does not appear to have
beem a Scottish connection, but rather the kilt was simply
considered a stylish eye-catching costume. Often there were not even
bagpipes envolved.
Many American boys participate in pipe bands. The Scottish bands are
the most common, but there are also many Irish pipe bands. Pipebands are
very popular in America. They not only participate in ethnic events, but in a
variety of public and private events. Pipe bands were once entirely
composed of men and boys, but girls now also participate.
American high schools have uniformed marching bands which perform at
football games and other events. The costumes can be quite elaborate. A
few of these schools have Scottish conections or are named
after Sciotts. Some of these bands have Scottish styled uniforms. In most
cases they do not include kilts--as the boys are shy about wearing them. A
small number of bands, however, do wear a kilt uniform.
Some information on personal experiences of American boys abd Scottish kilts is as follows:
A New York boy Hiram Van Vliet Braman wore a Highland kilt. The kilt was donated to the ??? Museum and is in the New York City collection. Hiram wore the kilt about 1883, although for ewhat occassions and how commonly we do not know. The Museum calls it a "Scotch Suit", but it is clearly a full Highland kilt outfit in the Black Watch plaid, complete with sporran. According to the Museum, Upon Queen Victoria's "coronation, the influence of Victoria's reign and the ensuing predilection for all things British were strongly felt on the New York side of the Atlantic. A popular souvenir from a trip to the British Isles was the ubiquitous Scotch suit that was worn by fashionable children of either gender." This undoubtedly true, although we are not sure to what extent girls wore Hoghland kilts. Americans traveling to England and Europe in the late 19th century mean families of means. We also wonder if they might not have been able to purchase them in New York City shops.
A young Franklin Roosevelt was photographed in a Higkand kilt outfit with his aging father. This is another example of the Hghland kilt being worn by wealthy, non-Scottish American boys.
I was 11 years old when my dad got a job in Scotland in 1983. I was a typical American boy in the 1980s. I grew up in jeans and "T" shirts. I did occasionally wear short
pants during the summer, but I never had a short pants suit or ever wore kneesocks. I had never even heard of a kilt. I grew up in Houston, Texas and knew nothing
about living abroad. My dad worked for an oil services firm and the North Sea oil boom created a lot of job opportunities in' Scotland. Was I in for a surprise when we moved. It all sounded kind of exciting to me, moving to a foreign country. We had never even traveled abroad for vacations. I was a bit unhappy about leaving my friends, but off we went to Scotland.
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