English Smocks: Chronology

I am not sure when English mothers began dressing English boys in smocks. A variety of images show, however, that smocks and pinafores were worn by boys during much of the 19th Century, but declined in popularity during the late 19th Century. The fact that smocks were generally associated with agricutural labor and workmen in the early and mid-19th century probably discouraged many middle-class mothers from using smocks for their children. This began to change after the French Government mandated smocks for school children in the early 1870s. The fact that the British Government never adopted smocks as schoolwear probably was a factor explaining why smocks were never commonly worn by school-age boys in Britain.

18th century

We do not yet have any information on Englisgh smocks during the 18th century, but believe that this widely worn 19th century garment originated in the 18th century.

Early 19th century (1800-40)

Smocks were extensively worn by agricutural labor and workmen in the early 19th century. They probably originated in the 18th century, but HBC does not yet have any information on this. Smocks became strongly associated with the working class. Clothes were very expensive in real terms during the early 19th centurt and it was especially important for people of modest means to protect their clothing. In addition, a smock was a simplier garment to sew (and this less expensive) than shirts and trousers. The drugery inc\volved in laundey in the 19tyh century also made the smock a practical garment. This probably discouraged many middle-class mothers from using smocks for their children. The fact that younger boys' commonly wore dresses would seem to suggest that the smock would also be a suitable garment for a child. Given the fact that the Empire-style dresses were quite long in the early 19th century, smocks for girls and younger boys would have had to be quite long. HBC has no information indicating that smocks were extensively worn by British children in the early 19th century, but our information is admitedly limited.

Mid-19th century (1840-70)

Smock continued to be worn by agricultural laborers and city workers in the mid-19th century. Some paintings suggest that smocks were commonly worn by some English children during the mid-19th Century. The fact that younger boys' commonly wore dresses would seem to suggest that the smock would also be a suitable garment for a child. Dresses becamge shorter by the 1840s, but were commonly worn with pantalettes. We have not yet noted any paintings or photographs of children wearing smocks with pantalettes, but presimably few children would have worn an informal smock for a portarit. We have also seen some indication that younger children wore smock and pinafores to school. We are not yet sure, however, how common it was and what age boy would wear smocks and pinafores. We do note some images of older boys in rural areas wearing the same style of smocks worn by their fathers. It is possible that some boys may have worn such smocks to school.

Late 19th Century (1870-1900)

Artist like Helen Allingham provide some charming images of English girls and boys wearing smocks. Smocks continued to be popular for girls in the late-19th Century, but by the late 19th Century, especially by the 1890s were becoming less common for boys. This was in part because of the increasing level of school attendance, both in private and state schools. English schools, unlike French schools did not require children to wear smocks. English private schools had school uniforms and once boys began wearing their school uniforms they no longer wanted to wear smocks at home. Some English boys at the turn of the century did wear smocks. The boys involved were primarily from affluent families. It was increasingly being viewed, however, as a French fashion. The families involved were often families who liked to stress their cosmopolitan commections and outlook. One such family was the The Llewellyn-Davies Family. The family was importalized By J.M. Barie in the children's classic, Peter Pan. The boys helped inspired Barie's book. The were commonly outfitted in smocks and even berets, giving them even more of a Frebch look. We also note that Reginald Birch in his classic illustrations for Little Lord Faintleroy depicted the children on the estate wearing smocks. Cedric of course did not wear smocks, but the children of the agricyltural laborers did. We are not sure how common this was in England by 1885 when he did the illustrations. This may have been a bit of nostalgia. We have no photographic images to substantiate this. Presumably because estate workers could not aford photographic portraits and if they did would not have worn a smock which was considered work clothes.


Figure 1.-- Christopher Milne is seen in this photograph wearing the smocks and sandals his mother favored during the summer. He wore smocks until he went off to boarding school at about 8 years of age.

Early 20th Century (1900-20)

Younger English boys still wore smocks in the early 20th Century. I believe they were common nursery wear, although the photographic record does not seem to support this contention. I believe this is in part due to the fact that the children were often dressed up in their best clothes to have their photographs taken. In H.G. Wells's novel about education, Joan and Peter, he describes the children going to one of the "barefoot schools" supported by the artistically-inclined, "progressive" middle class. It turns out from the text, however, that the children were not actually barefoot. They wore the liberated dress of the period: smocks and sandals as illustrated in the Shephard drawings of Christopher Robin a decade later.

Mid-20th Century (1920-50)

Smocks continued to decline in popularity in England during the early 20th Century, especially for boys. A few schools required them for younger children, but this was not common. Some parents, mostly affluent parents might dress their sons in smocks for summer wear, which were considered practical casual wear. Dressing boys in smocks at home and for playing outside was known in England as late as the 1920s and 30s. Boys until they reached 8 and were ready for their preparatory school might be dressed in smocks, especially during the summer for play. The best known English boy to wear smocks is of course Chistopher Milne. He served as his father's prototype for Christopher Robbin of Winnie the Poo fame, was dressed in gingham smocks until he had passed his 8th birthday. This was, however, not common--but certainly not unheard of. The attitudes of the boys toward smocks can be seen when he went off to his boarding school. Unlike French boys who commonly wore them, English schoolboys clearly did not think that they were suitable boys wear. The other boys teased him for being Christopher Robin and wearing smocks as they had all read the Winnie the Poo books and seen the drawings. Some progressive schools in Britain appear to have used smocks and sandals as a school uniform.


Figure 2.--Some schools in England still use smocks for the younger children. I thought this image was English. An HBC contributor tells me that it may be French.

Late 20th Century (1950-2000)

English boys are currently rarely seen in smocks. A few pre-schools use smocks, but this is not common. Smocks are sometimes used for artbor other activities in schools. Commonly the schools, however, will have the children use one of their fathers' old shirts. This appears to be a popular alternative to an actual smock, especially with the boys.







HBC





Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Smock-related pages:
[Return to the Main English smock page]
[Return to the Main school smock page]
[Pinafores] [Fauntleroy suits] [Fauntleroy dresses] [Sailor hats] [Park outings]



Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:
[Introduction] [Activities] [Bibliographies] [Biographies] [Chronology] [Clothing styles] [Countries]
[Contributions] [FAQs] [German glossary] [Satellite sites] [Tools]
[Boys' Clothing Home]



Created: May 3, 20042
Last updated: May 3, 2004