Boys Historical Clothing Essays: National Descriptions


Figure 1.--The French called the long, knee-length shorts won by English boys--English shorts ( culotte anglaise ). By the 1960s, English boys were also wearing the shorter cut shorts worn in France and other Europoean countries. These English Cubs are wearing short cut shorts in the 1970s. Click on the image for an example of the shorts British boys were wearing in the 1940s and 50s.

We have notice that certain garments and hair styles are known by national descriptions. Some of the best known at Dutch boy bangs and Russian blouses. Curiously these terms are often not universal. In the Netherlands for example Dutch boy bangs are known as page cut. The French refer to English curls and English short pants, but these terms are not known by this term in other countries. We believe that clothing manufacturers often add foreign notations to give a garment or style a kind of stylish cachet. This not only occurred in America, but also in Europe. Sometimes the accuracy of these national descriptions was tenuous at best. We note, for example, that n American manufacturer rfered to "Dutch Necks" on underwear. In this case, the connection of the neck style seen here is not apparent even to our Dutch readers.

Universiality

We have notice that certain garments and hair styles are known by national descriptions. Some of the best known at Dutch boy bangs and Russian blouses. Curiously these terms are often not universal. In particular the terms are not commonly used in the countries references. In the Netherlands for example Dutch boy bangs are known as page cut. The French refer to English curls and English short pants, but these terms are not known by this term in other countries.

Origins

Before World war II there were still many destinctions in children's clothing around the world. Thus certain styles and even garments were associated with specific countries. Thus these styles mat have insired some of the national descriptions described here. There are other possible origins for these descriptions. We believe that clothing manufacturers often add foreign notations to give a garment or style a kind of stylish cachet. This not only occurred in America, but also in Europe. Sometimes the accuracy of these national descriptions was tenuous at best. We note, for example, that n American manufacturer rfered to "Dutch Necks" on underwear. In this case, the connection of the neck style seen here is not apparent even to our Dutch readers. Thus the origins and derivation of these terms provides an interesing historical question.

Specific Styles

Here are the national descriptions that come to mind initially. I am sure that there are more readers are invited to suggest additional such national descriptions with which they may be familiar.

Bermuda shorts

Bemuda is not a country, but here we won't quible. Bermuda shorts re often just called Bermudas. This is one of the terms thatis universal. Bermuda shorts are short pants (Bernudians like the British would say trousers) cut just above the knee. Short pants appeared in Bermuda at the turn of the 20th century, introduced as part of British army uniforms. The shorts were adopted by local Bermudians who introduced colors other than the original army khaki. They were worn with kneesocks and sport jackets. Bermudas are not worn as casual wear, although they were worn on the island and still are as both smart business and evening attire. HBC first notes them in America during the 1950s when magazine adds appeared for adults as informal dress wear for men as worn with knee socks and sports jackets. The fashion, however, never caught on for adults. American college boys began wearing Bermudas in the 1950s as casual wear and younger boys soon followed suit. They were the first short pants worn buy older American boys and helped to lead the war for the gradual acceptance of shorts as popular casual wear for boys in the 1970s. as the casual style for boys caught on. Older American boys until the 1970s continued the Bermuda-style, cut at just above the knee until the 1970s.

Continental-style short pants

We notice references to "continental-style shorts" in Britain. A reader writes, "When English boys stopped wearing "culottes anglaises", what they wore were described as "continental-style shorts". At the same time as the Brits were looking to the continent for fashion ideas, the French started dressing their boys in longer culottes anglaises. It's funny how they admired each other's styles, yet they couldn't manage to both dress the same way at the same time." The English Cubs here in the 1970s can be seen wearing continental-styled shorts (figure 1). We notice that there was no reference to any specific continental country, perhaps because the shorter-cut shots were so common throughout Europe. We believe, however, that France was an especially important fashion influence.

Dutch boy bangs

The term Dutch boy bangs is known in many different countries. One notable exception is the Netherlands itself. Americans associate bangs with the Dutch. Bangs in America are even reffered to as "Dutch boy bangs". The Dutch tend to call it a "pony", although pagekopje or "page" is also used. I'm not sure how the American expresion of "Dutch boy bangs" developed, but bangs have indeed been worn by Dutch boys. A Dutch reader writes, "I am not satisfied with what it says about the Dutch calling bangs a page boy cut. I checked the terms with friends and dictionaries and here is what I found. Page boy cut ("pagekopje" in Dutch) refers to a style worn by girls and women and refers to bangs in front AND a short cut at the back. You would not normally call a boy's cut a "pagekopje".

Dutch neck

We note, for example, that an American manufacturer (Nazareth) refered to "Dutch Necks" on underwear. In this case, the connection of the neck style seen here is not apparent even to our Dutch readers. I'm not sure what that meant, but the neck is certinly cut very open. I'm not sure why this is called a " Dutch Neck ". A reader write, "I think the term " Dutch Neck " refers to the rounded neck cut fairly high up on these waist union suits as opposed to a V neck or lower-cut neck. I think the "Dutch Neck" might have been more popular for boys who wanted the additional coverage and were not worried (as some girls would have been) about their underwear showing under low-cut dresses or blouses. This is just a guess, however. I don't know what is particularly "Dutch" about a high neck. Perhaps certain Dutch styles of clothing were made with a high, rounded neck?" An American reader writes, "Dutch neck refers to round neck cut lower on the body vs.. high neck version which was more prominent earlier which was one of the reasons for dickeys and shields in boy's fashions in earlier decades." A Dutch reader writes, "It seems unlikely that fashions in Holland would have had any influence on the styling of boys' underwear in the United states in the 20th century. Rather the reverse I would think. Another compllication is that Dutch in America is sometimes confused with deutsch, i.e. German. The Pennsylvania Dutch are actually Pennsylvania Germans. Perhaps a referral to styles worn by the Amish people or the Pennsylvania Dutch?" A reader writes, "The suggestion of "Deutch" (for Dutch) is interesting. This had actually occurred to me also. The Nazareth waist suits were made in Nazaerth, Pennsylvania, in a region that had a number of "Pennsylvania Dutch" settlers. So there may be something to this connection." HBC agrees that Dutch fashions were not all that influential in America. We believe, however, that clothing manufacturers often add foreign notations to give a garment or style a kind of stylish cachet.

Dutch rompers

We notice this term being used in America during the early 20th century. It appears to refer to romper with puff/baloon bottoms. We are not sure how this term developed. Rompers seem a style more opular in France than the Netherlands.

English curls

The French fefer to ringlet curls ss English curls. I do not known any other country in which this term is used. At the term of the 20th century, many French boys with long hairwore their hair straight or with only natural curls, not carefully styled ringlets. There were variations from country to country concerning the popularity of ringlets curls. We do note more English than French boys wearing them. We notice even more American boys wearing them.

English short pants

The French refer to long, knee-length short pats as English short pantse-- culotte anglaise . I do not know of any other country with the possible exception of Belgium in which this term is used. This termbecame common after World War II when French boys were wearing much shorter-cut short pants. As far as I knowm the English never called the shorter shorts French shorts. English boys wore longish cut shorts through the 1950s, but by the 1960s, nglisg boys were wearing the same short cut short pants popular in France and other Continental countries. A French reader provides us some background, "The term ' Culotte anglaise ' has been used in France for some time. The English short plants are cut longer than French shorts at the time and had a fly. French shorts for boys under 10 generally did not have a fly. They also had a crease and hem. The colors were normaly grey, blue or white. They were made in a heavy material and always lined. British boys began shifting to continental-style shorts in the 1960s. The English Cubs here in the 1970s are wearing the continental-style shots (figure 1). The French concept of English shorts has change in recent years as Frnch boys in the 1990s began wearing longer cut shorts. To day we call " culotte anglaise " the dressy short pants for a weding , visit , or for school uniform. The casual mid-length short pants we call " short anglais ". The French have always considered from the 19th century that the English styles hase look of class. We also see the American styles as a casual look. Many rich or noble English families have for some time lived on the French Riviera. In Nice there is a seaside road called " Promenade des Anglais ". A few wealthy French children in the 20th century had an English look and sometimes an English nanny. My uncle had an English nanny so he was able to speak English fluently without an accent at an early age."

French-type underwear

We note American underwear manufacturers rferring to "French-style" underwear for children. By this is meant underwear cut to shorter lengths so it could be worn with garments like short pants or short skirts. One compamy, Minnesota Mills, refers to "fashionable French Type (short trunk) garments". It appears to have been a widely used term. We have noted it being used by several different underwear companies. Another example is E-Z Mills. I do not think that it was used in oither countries.

Jamaica shorts

The term Jamica shorts developed while Jamaica wasstill and English colony. Jamaica shorts were slightly longer than Bermuda shorts. They were not as popular as Bermuda shorts and the term is less commonly used. Jamaica shorts probably, like Bermudas, originated with the short pants British Army uniforms at the turn of the 20th century. Jamaica shorts were never commonly worn by American or European boys. They seem to have been more of an adult style in the 1950s and were cut slightly shorter than Bermuda shorts. I don't know if they were really developed in Jamaica or just named for the island. Jamaica shorts were, however, a style worn by adults or older boys.

Jersey shorts and pullovers

Our information on Jersey clothing is limited at this time. Jersey shorts are knitted wool shorts. Jersey shorts and pullovers are knitted garments are made from wool. The names is derived from Jersey, one of the British Channel Islands off the French coast. I'm not sure what makes Jersey shorts and pullovers destinctive from other knitted shorts and sweaters. Jersey sweaters are well known. I'm not sure how common the term Jersey shorts was. We note it in a German mail order catalog during the 1970s. A French reader writes, "Jersey becam popular in the 1970s. Synthetic materials had a lot of advantahes. They were easy to wash, flexible, solid, and inexpensive. There were, however, disavantage such as the possibility of allergic reactions and thus there were health problems. Garments made out of natural fibers (cotton and wool) thus had advantages. We bought many knitted Jersey wool articles for our daughter." Another reader writes, "Jersey shorts are short trousers made of Jersey a special wool or syunthetic fibre product named after the Jersey. It is also used for skirts and trikots." We had thought that Jersey products were natural cotton and wool. Here we need some additional information. Also we are unsure about the derivaton of the term jersey which have several different meanings.

Russian blouses

European and American boys at the turn of the 20th Century wore two garments in the Russian style, tunics and blouses both worn as part of a suit ensemble. The Russian tunic had existed for some time. The Russian blouse suit was a new style. The Russian style came in two styles, a tightly buttoned at the neck style which appeared in the 1890s and an open square collared style which appeared after the turn of the century. The open square collar was rather an informal style worn with short pants.

Scottish kilts

Scottish kilts were not a specifically boys garment, but they were a popular garment for boys. They also influence the kilt suit, a major style for boys in the late 19th century.

Ulster items

Ulster of course is the northern provinces of Ireland with a large Protestant population and as a result did not join the Irish Free State when it was formed (1922) which late became the Irish Republic. Uldter was the most heavily indistrialized area of Ireland with many textile mills. As a result, there are many clothing terms associated with Ireland. Note the term of "ulster pockets". This appears to be verically cut slash pockets. An example here were he ulster pockets on cape overcoats. There were also ulster overcoats, long overcoats originally made of Irish frieze. There was also ulster cloth.

Other Country Terms

We note a number of other counrt terms associated with clothing. These terms, however, refer to garments or fashion items that are not specifically relevant to children's clothing. French cuffs refer to shirt sleve cuffs requiring cuff links. Italian pockets refer to pants pockets with horizonal rather than slant openings.

Country Trends

Curiously several of the terms here relate to the Dutch. we are not at all sure why this was. The Netherlands is a small country and not at all that important in the world of fashion. The English terms (including English colonies Bermuda and Jamaica) are more understandable as England has played a major role in children's fashions. Curiously we do not note any garments attributed by name to the French. does n








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Created: December 7, 2003
Last updated: 10:27 PM 8/29/2004