Figure 1.--We have found a catalog from the Harris Suspender Company for Kazoo suspender waists. While the catalog is undated, we believe that it was published in 1920-21. Harris was a major manufactuer at the time. This catalog was published toward the end of the popularity of suspender waists, probably because knee pants were going out of style (although boys continued to wear long stockings with knickers and short trousers). The first is the age of the boy model--clearly an older teenager. It is hard to be specific, but we would guess about 15 or 16 years old. Notice also that the Kazoo Suspender Waist for Boys is available in several different styles. Style 4 is the one illustrated and probably the most popular, especially with older boys, because it functions as a support for both trousers (i.e. knee pants) and long stockings.

We have found a catalog from the Harris Suspender Company for Kazoo suspender waists. While the catalog is undated, we believe that it was published in 1920-21. Harris was a major manufactuer at the time. This catalog was published toward the end of the popularity of suspender waists, probably because knee pants were going out of style (although boys continued to wear long stockings with knickers and short trousers).

Harris Suspender Company

This is the best image we've yet obtained of the Kazoo Suspender Waist. It comes not from a magazine advertisement (like HBC's other examples), but apparently from the manufacturer's catalogue dated c. 1920-21. HBC was a little surprised that the company's product line was so extensive that they needed a catalog. We know that this advertisement is from a trade catalogue because it is addressed to shop keepers who would be buying these suspender waists in quantities--i.e., by the dozen, not individually. Note too that the ad gives the addresses of the company's outlets not only in New York City but also in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Baltimore, Kalmazoo, and Toronto.

Chronology

This catalog was published toward the end of the popularity of suspender waists, probably because knee pants were going out of style (although boys continued to wear long stockings with knickers and short trousers). I think the date is 1920-21 pretty certainly. Kazoo Suspender Waists went out of style just after this--about 1922--so I think the 1920s generally would be misleading. I think 1920 or 1921 is pretty accurate.

Suspender Waists

Suspender waists were a support garment to hold up other garments. So-called “suspender waists” were invented at the turn of the 20th century and were popular mainly with boys who wore knee pants and needed a way of supporting their long stockings—almost always black. Although some models of the suspender waist (such as Kazoo) were manufactured in styles that could be worn also by girls, the main wearers of these waists were boys. They were called “suspender waists” because they combined trousers suspenders with hose supporters and had leather suspender attachments for holding up knee pants in addition to hose supporters for long stockings. The style did not last very long and was most popular during the 1910s. N.B. Suspender waists are not to be confused with the older style of garter waists (such as the Dr. Parker waist) which also had suspender-like straps over the shoulders, a waist belt (sometimes with waist buttons for outer clothing), and hose supporters. With true suspender waists only the garter part of the waist can be classified as underwear because the shoulder straps would be visible (like ordinary modern suspenders) on top of a shirt.

The Gament

There are several interesting things to notice about the Kazoo waist shown here.

Age

The first is the age of the boy model--clearly a teenager. It is hard to be specific, but we would guess about 15 or 16 years old. Such assessments, however, are subjective. HBC readers have comment with assessments of 14-17 years of age. More importantly note that the ad copy indicated an age range up to 18 so they were worn by older teenagers. This means that long stockings with knee pants and above-the-knee knickers were still being worn by some boys until they had graduated from highschool. boys. The sizes are obviously age sizes.

Stockings color

Notice also that the stockings are black. Shades of brown and tan had begun to become popular in the 1920s, but black was apparently considered the appropriate color for boys on the threshold of adulthood.

Unin suit

Notice also the athletic-style sleeveless union suit, more comfortable for the warmer months. This underwear seems to have ankle-length legs (the most common style), but it is possible that it has knee-length legs so that the long stockings would not appear bunched-up by a layer of underwear underneath.

Styles

Notice also that the Kazoo Suspender Waist for Boys is available in several different styles. Style 4 is the one illustrated and probably the most popular, especially with older boys, because it functions as a support for both trousers (i.e. knee pants) and long stockings. With this waist the suspenders are worn on top of the shirt so that the double suspender ends at the waist level can button onto the trousers front and back. But the shoulder straps are continuous and extend over the shirt and below the waistline under the trousers so that the supporters can be attached to the tops of the stockings. Style B (not illustrated) is a similar garment but comes with a built-in belt with buttons on it for attaching the trousers. This means that the suspender straps would be worn underneath the shirt rather than above it and would therefore not show. This style was designed for younger boys from 8 to 12. Boys liked Style 4 (without the belt) better than Style B because they felt that they were dressed more like adult men with suspenders for their trousers that were in plain view. In other words, they wanted to dress as much like their fathers or other grown-ups as possible. Style 7 is a higher quality version of Style 4 (the difference in price probably indicates a better quality of leather for the suspender attachments and perhaps stronger elastic in the overall construction). Style 7B is a better quality version of style B described above.

Prices and durability

The differences in price are revealing. Style 4 and Style B sell for $5.75 a dozen, whereas Styles 7 and 7B cost $10.00 a dozen (nearly twice as much). Durability was probably a factor here. Boys would give these suspender waists, which they would have to wear every day of their lives, very hard use. There was obviously some incentive on the part of mothers to buy their sons a higher quality of waist that would last longer, given the strenuous activities of growing boys.

Adjustability

Notice that both the suspenders and the hose supporters have buckles for the adjustment of length.

Regional trends

The fact that Kazoo Suspender Waists were sold on both the east and west coasts as well as in the middle west shows that the garment had national rather than just regional appeal. For a brief period from about 1914 to 1920 Kazoo Suspender Waists were available nationlly through the Sears and Roebuck catalogues, but they were largely replaced in the early 1920s by garter waists.

Ad Copy

The ad copy read, "Kazoo Athletic Suspender Waist for Boys Ages 4 to 18. Style 4 Sizes 8 to 18. Price $5.75 Doz. Style B (with Belt)--Sizes 4 to 12. Price $5.75 Doz. Style 7 Finest Quality. Sizes 8 to 18. Price $10.00 Doz. Style 7B (with Belt). Finest Quality. Sizes 4 to 12. Price 10.00 Doz. A handsome metal counter display cabinet lithographed in five colors, given free with orders of four dozen or more. Harris Suspender Company 1230 Broadway at 30th Street New York City Pacific Coast Branches: San Francisco 515 Market Street Los Angeles Delta Buliding Baltimore Hanover Building Kalamazoo, Michigan [HBC note: the city where the Kazoo Suspender Waist was invented, patented, and first marketed--hence the name "Kazoo".] Canadian Licensee for Kazoos Eisman & Co., Ltd. Toronto, Ontario "Whiz" Suspenders, Harris Belts and Jewelry, Buckles, Garters, Armbands."

Created: 9:11 PM 3/4/2005
Last updated: 9:11 PM 3/4/2005