American Mail Order Catalogs: Sears Underwear (Spring-Summer 1924)


Figure 1.--Here we have Sears, Spring and Summer catalog, p. 229. There's quite a bit of variety. The age limits are from little boys (beginning at2 years old) up to youths (about 16-17 years old), but the age limits are not the same for all the models. Notice all are knee length, the appropriate length for knickers.

Here we have Sears, Spring and Summer catalog, p. 229. There's quite a bit of variety. The age limits are from little boys (beginning at2 years old) up to youths (about 16-17 years old), but the age limits are not the same for all the models. Note that correct sizing and comfortable fit are emphasized in most cases, since nothing could be more uncomfortable than a union suit that was either too tight or two loose, especially in the more form-fitting, knitted models. It is interesting that correct fit and economy are linked as correlative factors. Notice all are knee length, the appropriate length for knickers.

Sears

The Sears, Roebuck and Co., huge merchandising firm centered in Chicago was founded by Richard W. Sears (1863-1914) and A.C. Roebuck (1864-1948). Sears had begun a career in mail-order business in Minnesota 1886. In Chicago he and Roebuck joined resources and formed a corporation in 1893 as a mail-order business under title Sears, Roebuck and Company. Julius Rosenwald (1862-1932) in 1895 bought Roebuck's interest in firm and became president on Sears's retirement 1908. A retail-store system was added 1925. The first foreign store added in Havana, Cuba during 1945 and becane te first expropriated store in 1960. The Sears-Roebuck brought the production of industry to the fartherest corner of rural America, opening the cornucopia of the consumer age to rural America. All the new things that were changing American life danced across their pages. Through it, a huge Chicago warehouse offers to modernize the farms and small towns of the Midwest.

Ages

The age limits are from little boys (beginning at2 years old) up to youths (about 16-17 years old), but the age limits are not the same for all the models.

Length

Notice all are knee length, the appropriate length for knickers. These garments are too long to wear with short pants. The length makes no rea sence if worn with long pants. They are too long for short pants. American boys at the time, especially school-age boys, usually wore knickers.

Gender

These union suits are primarily made for boys as is suggested by the models chosen. Actually several of the styles were also worn by girls. Notice that there is one girls model, but the suit shown was described as being for both daughters and sons.

Union Suits

The union suit is usually a close-fitting underwear garment. The term union refers to the fact that a union suit involves the combination of both a shirt and pants (drawers) in a one piece suit. The garment commonly included a drop seat. This term began to be used in the 1890s. The term union suit was commonly used for adults. The children's version was a waist suit or a waist-union suit. Women also wore union suits. So did girls. But they were associated mainly with men because more men than women wore them. With boys and girls, I'm not sure. I think waist union suits were equally popular for boys and girls because of the waist feature. Union suits for children were essentially combination suits. But union suits without the reinforcement straps were mainly a boy's garment.

Underwear Styles

True Sizes seems to be a brand name. The page is headlined with "True Sizes Mean Comfort and Better Wear". There is a caption reading "All generous sizes. Here we have Sears, Spring and Summer catalog, p. 229. There's quite a bit of variety. Note that correct sizing and comfortable fit are emphasized in most cases, since nothing could be more uncomfortable than a union suit that was either too tight or two loose, especially in the more form-fitting, knitted models. It is interesting that correct fit and economy are linked as correlative factors.

Boys' and Youths' Elastic Ribbed Cotton Union Suits

THe d copy read, "42 cents. 1GR7517--White Lowest price today. But regardless of price you can rely on our quality. It brings to you big value Every size is made in correct dimensions which means good wear and comfort. Knit from a good grade combed cotton. Short sleeves. Knee length. Light weight. Sizes 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 5 ounces." [HBC note: these chest sizes would fit boys from about 8 years old to about 17 years old. Union suits for both men and boys were sold by chest measurement, but union suits for boys up to age 13 were also sometimes sold by age rather than chest measurement, especially if the union suits had waist functions built in.]

Extra Good Quality

The Sears ad copy read, "63 cents. Boys' and Youths' Fine Ribbed Cotton Union Suits. 2GR7520--White. There is comfort and service in underwear only when it is made correctly. Depend on this suit for the best of everything--it's a big value for you. Short sleeves, close fitting knees. Light weight. Sizes 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 6 oz."

"Just Like Dad's--Quality and All

The Sears ad copy read, "42 cent. 1GR7505. White. A regular athletic style nainsook suit designed to give young chaps the same good comfort and service that Dad requires. It is a light weight suit. Made of nainsook in a pattern similar to illustration. Elastic ribbed band across the back. Sizes, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 5 ounces." [HBC note: These suits have a back flap which buttons rather than the more old-fashioned three-button drop seat. The drop seat was gradually replaced by the button-flap opening in back and had become pretty general by the 1920s although some mothers still preferred the drop- seat for their smaller boys. Notice the appeal to grown-up masculinity in this underwear, which is a junior version of what many boys' fathers would be wearing.]

Elastic Knit Waist Union Suits for Boys and Girls

The Sears ad copy read, "69 cents. Combed Cotton Brings to You Suits of Real Quality and Value. 16GR7095. Mothers who seek the best in Waist Suits for their young daughters and sons come to an abrupt stop here. It's real value we offer in fine suits made of high grade combed cotton yarn. Medium low neck, sleeveless. Knee length. Drop seat. Reinforced with tabular straps. Pin tubes for garters. Medium light weight. Sizes 2-3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 years. State age. Shipping weight, 7 ounces." [HBC note: These garments are unisex--no difference in style for boys and girls. They combine the functions of a union suit and an underwaist, having reinforced straps with waist buttons to support outer garments such as button-on shorts, knickers, skirts, and bloomers. And they also have pin tubes at the sides so that hose supporters for long stockings can be pinned on. Many boys in the 1920s still wore long stockings for dress-up and formal occasions even in summer weather under short trousers or knickers, and girls wore them also. Note that this suit has the more conservative drop seat in back rather than the flap. Drop seats were often preferred by mothers for younger children as being more sanitary. The "medium low neck" is featured to appeal to girls who might be wearing low-cut dresses in the summer and wouldn't want their underwear to show. This would have been less of a problem for boys with high-collar shirts of course. In many catalogs up through the 1930s, one of the the main differences in underwear between boys' and girls' styles was the relative lowness or highness of the neck.]

Quality and Price That's Hard to Beat Any Place

The Sears ad copy read, "47 cents. 16R7090--White. Made of good quality cotton. Medium low neck, sleevelss. Knee length. Reinforced with tubular straps. Pin tubes for garters. Drop seat. Medium light weight. Ages, 2-3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 years. State age. Shipping weight, 5 ounces." [HBC note: the boy illustrated here looks to be about 10 years of age--a typical age for boys who still wore long stockings but who wanted to avoid the bother and bulk of an extra underwaist. Waist suits saved mothers money also because they could buy one garment instead of two. Boys older than ten probably wouldn't have required the waist buttons provided here because by this age they probably wore belts or suspenders to hold up their trousers. But they would have needed the pin tubes for hose supporters if their mothers insisted on long stockings. Girls, however, wore button-on clothing to a slightly higher age--sometimes into their teens.]

There Is Quality Here in Flat Knit Cotton Union Suits

The Sears ad copy read, "48 cents. 16R7524--White. Strongly made and exceptionally well finished in every detail. Short sleeves with elastic knit cuffs. Loose fitting knee length. Light weight. Sizes, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 6 oz."

Mesh Knit. Cool and Comfortable for Boys

The Sears ad copy read, "59 cents. 16R7521--Cream color. When Old Sol seems to smile and does his best to make things pop under scorching rays--what a comfort it will be for the young fellow who wears a fine mesh weave union suit. They're light weight and cool. Made with one big thing in mind, and that's comfort, when the days are good and warm. Elastic knit close fitting cuffs at knees and short sleeves. Sizes 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 6 oz."

Athletic Style Knit Combed Cotton Union Suit

The Sears ad copy read, "57 cents. Athletic Style Knit Combed Cotton Union Suit. A regular Suit for any Young Chap. 16R7528--Cream color. It is only natural that every thrifty person looks about before making a purchase of any kind, but we honestly believe that it would be useless in this instance. This suit offers quality that is the making of such a remarkable value. Knit of fine combed cotton yarn. Sleeveless, knee length. Elastic ribbed. Sizes, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 6 oz."

Our Best Nainsook Athletic Suit

The Sears ad copy, "59 cents. 16R7523--White. We preach quality--yes--and this suit is proof that we sell it as well. A good comfortable suit made of a light weight, fine checked nainsook patterned similar to illustration. Sleeveless. Kneee length. Elastic ribbed, band across back. Sizes 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 and 34 inches chest measure. State size. Shipping weight, 6 ounces."






HBC






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Created: 10:39 PM 12/20/2005
Last updated: 10:39 PM 12/20/2005