Figure 1.-- Nine grades of long stockings were offered by Wards in their Fall and Winter Catalog for 1936-37, a year when the popularity of long stockings for boys and girls seems to have increased somewhat. This advertisement appeared on page 181. Although black stockings were still available, the dominant colors are "French tan," "French nude," "Champagne" (similar to beige), and Brown. |
Nine grades of long stockings were offered by Wards in their Fall and Winter Catalog for 1936-37, a year when the popularity of long stockings for boys and girls seems to have increased somewhat. This advertisement appeared on page 181. Although black stockings were still available, the dominant colors are "French tan," "French nude," "Champagne" (similar to beige), and Brown. White was available in one or two styles, but seems to have been favored chiefly by girls. Boys wore mostly brown, tan, or beige stockings. Most grades of long stockings came in a fine rib (a smoother look for dressy occasions) and Derby rib (a somewhat more rugged look favored by boys for school and play but worn also by girls). The sizes go up to 9 1/2 and 10--large enough to fit boys and girls in their middle teens. Girls wore long stockings until about 15 or 16. Boys (in most cases) only to about 12 or 13, although one style of long stockings, specifically indicated for boys (because of the double knees), was available in sizes up to 10 1/2 (about 16 or 17 years of age). Boys this old probably preferred to wear their long stockings with knickers (one of the background illustrations shows a boy wearing knickers with long stockings), but the double knees suggests that they were designed for wear with short pants, and the illustration shows a boy wearing the stockings with shorts.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
In the 1920s, short pants (less formal than knee pants) came into style and were sometimes worn as an alternative to knickers. Knee socks were often worn with the new short pants (as was the common style in Great Britain). But long stockings did not entirely die out during the 1920s, 1930s, and early 1940s. Some mothers required their sons to wear long stockings with short pants either for warmth or for formal or dress-up occasions such as weddings, funerals, first communions, and the like. And since knee socks were often hard to keep in place (they tended to fall down even when the tops were elasticized or when worn with round garters), some mothers insisted that long stockings with supporters be worn with knickers or shorts for a smoother, neater, and more formal look. Long stockings were almost invariably a single color--black, tan, or beige--and looked more dressy with short pants or with below-the-knee knickers than the sporty, patterned knee socks commonly sold. The stockings also had to be knitted much longer in the 1930s because short pants were being worn shorter and the advertisers made a point of the supporters not showing under the new short clothes. Long stockings worn with short pants, especially for older boys, became much less common in the 1930s and 1940s in the United States, although they were still prominently advertised during this period and were still worn by a minority of boys from conservative families.
Although black stockings were still available, the dominant colors are "French tan," "French nude," "Champagne" (similar to beige), and Brown. White was available in one or two styles, but seems to have been favored chiefly by girls. Boys wore mostly brown, tan, or beige stockings.
Most grades of long stockings came in a fine rib (a smoother look for dressy occasions) and Derby rib (a somewhat more rugged look favored by boys for school and play but worn also by girls).
The sizes go up to 9 1/2 and 10--large enough to fit boys and girls in their middle teens. Girls wore long stockings until about 15 or 16. Boys (in most cases) only to about 12 or 13, although one style of long stockings, specifically indicated for boys (because of the double knees), was available in sizes up to 10 1/2 (about 16 or 17 years of age).
Older boys wearing long stockings wore them with knickers (one of the background illustrations shows a boy wearing knickers with long stockings), but the double knees suggests that they were designed for wear with short pants, and the illustration shows a boy wearing the stockings with shorts.
One of the features of these stockings that are stressed repeatedly is the smooth fit at the ankle--which is one of the reasons for the ribbed-to-the-toe aspect. Children didn't like stockings that looked as though the feet had been knitted separately from the legs and were bulky around ankle, which was true of some of the more old-fashioned stockings from earlier decades. Ribbed knitting made for a much more form-fitting stocking, a stocking with greater elasticity and stretch. The sizing of boys' and
girls' stockings was keyed to their shoe size.
Nine grades of long stockings were offered by Wards in their Fall and Winter Catalog for 1936-37, a year when the popularity of long stockings for boys and girls seems to have increased somewhat. This advertisement appeared on page 181. ward offered bothribbed and plain (flat) weave stockings.
The heading in the middle of the page reads, "Wards Special Prices Are Little to Pay for All the Advantages of True Ribbed-to-the-toe Stockings. Longer wearing. Better fitting. Neater Looking. No ankle ridge." Most of the stockings were ribbed knit.
The ad copy read, "Extra Value. 14 cents. 3 Pairs 40 cents. Fine Guage Sturdy Cotton. For Boys and Girls. Noted for wear. Full length. No skimping. Finer stockings than you would usually find for so
little. They're ribbed-to-the toe for maximum elasticity. One continuous fit at the ankle means no ridges to show with low-cut shoes. Smooth seamless knit, quality yarns--only the finest yarns can be
used in our knitting process. Two ribs. See Size chart on opposite page. Colors: French Tan, French Nude, Black. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. State size, also color. Ship. wt. pair 4
oz.; 3 pairs, 10 oz. Fine Rib. Derby Rib. 14 cents; 3 Pairs 40 cents." {??? if possible]
The ad copy read, "Extra Wear. 18 cents. 3 Pairs 53 cents. Fine Quality Combed Cotton. Smooth, Even Texture. Reinforced heels and toes. Comfortable seamless feet. This finer yarn wears longer--aand stays smoother and softer through many washings than the stockings at the left. Uniformly smooth--all unevenness combed out! Fine guage--ribbed-to-the-toe for extra elasticity. More stretch across instep--easier to put on. Neater looking with all children's shoes! See scale on oppostie page to determine correct size. Colors: French Tan, French Nude or Black. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 8. 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. State size and color. Ship. wt. pair 4 oz.; 3 pairs 10 oz. 30 C 321--Fine rib; 30 C 320--Derby Rib. Pair 19 cents. 3 Pairs 53 cents."
The ad copy read, "Extra Long. 23 cents. 2 Paris 45 cents. Mercerized 2-Ply Lisle. Longer than average. Soft silk-like finish. No Ankle-Ridge to show. Extra long--knit for taller children and to
eliminate garter strain. Of soft, fine Lisle (more twists to the inch than averabe cotton). Ribbed-to-the-toe for added stretchiness, so important in children's hose. Seamless feet are comfortably smooth. Reinforced at heels and toes. See size scale on page 180. Colors: French Tan or French Nude. Sizes 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10. State size, color. Please be sure to tell us the size and color you want when you send us your order. Ship. wt. pr. 4 oz.; 2 pars, 7 oz. 30 C 324--Fine Rib; 30 C 325--Derby Rib. Pair 23 cents; 2 pairs 45 cents."
The ad copy read, "18 cents. 3 Pairs 53 cents. Smarter Colors Made of Ingrain Cotton yarns. Ribbed-to Toe. Better Than Ever, Noted for Wear. To-the-Toe means greater smoothness of fit at the ankle. Warm colors (yarns dyed before knitting process). Fine guage. Seamless feet. Colors: Tan,
Brown, or Heather. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. State size, color. See size scale, p. 180. Ship. wt. 4 oz.; 3 pairs 10 oz. Pair 18 cents; 3 Pairs, 53 cents."
The ad copy read, "33 cents. 2 Pairs for 65 cents. One-fifth Wool with Rayon and cotton. Here's Wool for warmth, Rayon for looks, sturdy Cotton for longer wear. Ribbed-to-the-toe so they fit more neatly--stretch easily! Appropriate for dress or school. Truly grand values at this low price! Size scale, page 180. Colors: French tan or French nude. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9
1/2, 10. State size and color. Ship. wt. pair 4 oz.; 2 pairs 7 oz. 30 C 377--Fine Rib. Pair 33 cents; 2 pairs 65 cents."
The ad copy read, "23 cents. 2 Pairs 45 cents. Double knees for Extra Wear--2-play Lisle. Our best for boys. Twice the strength where hardest wear comes--and the threads that are added are invisibly knit in so their neat ribed-to-toe appearance isn't spoiled! Heels and toes reinforced. Size scale page 180. Colors:
French Tan, French Nude, or Black. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2. State size and color. Ship. wt. 4 oz.; 2 pairs, 7 oz. 30 C 380--Pair, 23 cents; 2 Pairs, 45 cents." [HBC note: note the illustration showing the boy wearing his stockings with short trousers.]
The ad coy read, "23 cents. 2 Pairs 45 cents. Rich Rayon Plated for Dress-Up Wear. All girls feel well dressed in these good-looking hose. [Boys, however, also wore these stockings for dressy occasions.] The Rayon gives a rich sheen, the Cotton is soft. Mercerized heels and toes take care of extra wear. Because they're ribbed-to-the-toe, they fit better. See Scale Page 180. Colors: French Tan, Nude, Champagne, or White. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. State size and color. Ship. wt., pair 4 oz.; 2 pairs, 7 oz. 30 C 323--Pair 23 cents; 2 Pairs, 45 cents." >br>
While most of the stockings were a rinned knit, Wards also offered plain (flat) knit stockings. The heading read, "These stockings with Plain Knit Feet Are Unusual Values, Too."
The ad copy read, "Half Wool. 33 cents; 2 Pairs, 65 cents. Fine ribbed for extra
stretchiness. Smooth plain knit feet, heels and toes reinforced. Grant for wear. colors: Brown, Tan, Tan Heather, Black. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10. State size, color. Ship. wt.,
pr. 4 oz.; 2 Pars 7 oz. Pair 33 cents; 2 Pairs 65 cents."
The ad copy read, "Thrift Quality in Cotton. Only 10 cents; 3 Pairs, 29 cents. Firmly knit to hold their shpae through all the hard wear boys and girls give stockings. Reinforced heel and toes. Fully sized--Really much better stockings than you usually find for so little. Colors: French Tan or French Nude. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. State size, color. See Size Scale on p. 180. Ship. wt. 4 oz.; 3 pairs, 10 oz. 30 C 305--Fine Rib. 30 C 306--Derby Rib, Pair, 10 cents;
3 Pairs, 29 cents."
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