Figure 1.-- Waists suits in 1941 were still commonly worn by American children. Some styles were worn by both boys and girls while othber styles were gender specific. Here are some of the waist suits offered by Wards.

Wards offered waist suits in their Fall and Winter, 1941-42 catalog. Waist union suits were still very widely sold for boys and girls from ages 2 to 12 because they functioned both as winter underwear (in short leg and ankle length models) and as waists to hold up long stockings and other outer clothing. Some obvious simplifications in the style and construction of this underwear are notable. One style, for instance, was made with a "Snap fronts" in lieu of the usual button fronts. This made it easier for children to close and open the suits. The snap closure apparently became popular on boys' underwear in the 1940s. We note an ad for "Gripper Fasteners" on boys' union suits about the same time.

Montgomery Wards

Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.

Waist Suits/Union Suits

As late as the early and mid 1940s, Wards was still advertising a wide variety of children's waist suits, worn by both boys and girls (sometims in different models for the two genders but not always). These suits were mostly union suits with both long and short legs (some also having short sleeves) that were designed not only as winter underwear but also with buttons for attaching outer clothing such as short pants and skirts and with garter tabs for attaching hose supporters so that long stockings could be worn without the use of a separate garter waist. (This is why they were called waist suits.)

Seasonality

Wards offered waist suits in their Fall and Winter, 1941-42 catalog.

Age

Waist union suits were still very widely sold for boys and girls from ages 2 to 12.

Seasonality

Waist suits functioned both as winter underwear (in short leg and ankle length models) and as waists to hold up long stockings and other outer clothing.

Styling and Features

Some obvious simplifications in the style and construction of this underwear are notable. One style, for instance, was made with a "Snap fronts" in lieu of the usual button fronts. This made it easier for children to close and open the suits. The snap closure apparently became popular on boys' underwear in the 1940s. We note an ad for "Gripper Fasteners" on boys' union suits about the same time. An additional modern feature was the "Self Help" elastic seat which made it possible for younger children to avoid the cumbersome business of the traditional 3-button drop seat. The self-help seats simply stretched and then snapped back into place. The disadvantage, of course, was that the elastic tended to wear out with frequent laundering, so some mothers preferred the more durable buttoned seat, especailly for older boys and girls who could manage the buttons on their own. The waist buttons for additional clothing were also simplified by 1941. Usually there were only two buttons at each side for the attachment of short pants, bloomers, or other garments (as opposed to the full set of waist buttons that had characterized earlier waist union suits in the 1910s, 1920s and early 1930s). An advertisement for E-Z Waist Union Suits in 1919 shows the more complicated drop seat and also a much fuller set buttons around the waist for attaching outer clothing. And the metal pinning tubes for hose supporters were sometimes attached to reinforcement strips that ran only from the waist to the armpit rather than passing over the shoulder like built-in suspender straps. This contrasts with the more elaborate supporting tapes that were standard in the comparable waist suits that Wards was advertising in 1929. We note also the availability of extremely brief waist suits with trunk-style legs and short sleeves or sleeveless arrangements. The trunk style had been popular since the early 1930s when short clothes came into fashion and mothers didn't want their children's underwear, hose supporters, and stockings tops to show under brief short pants and dresses. The Minneapolis Knitting Company, for instance, advertised trunk-style waist suits as early as 1930. One might imagine that such briefly cut union suits would be appropriate only for summer wear, but houses had become better heated by the 1940s and children had adopted short pants and dresses that were much shorter than had been the case a decade earlier. If boys and girls wore long stockings in the winter months, many mothers did not want them to have to pull them on over long underwear because of the bulkiness and lumpy look, although waist suits with ankle-length legs were obviously still available for children who needed the extra layers.

Gender

Wards offered a variety of styles of Waist suits for boys and girls in 1941. It is interesting to note that in the advertisment shown here, boys rather than girls are emphasized, although some styles are suitable for either gender. The bottom row of waist suits is pictured with boy models. I assume that means that they were all for boys. The middle heading on the ad specifies that the bottom row (long-leg suits) are specifically for boys. I think girls may also have worn long-leg waist suits, but, if so, they had different styles that were advertised on a different page of the catalog. Unfortunately, we don't have the catalog to check that out. Anyway, the styles shown here--i.e., those below the heading, Waist Suits for Boys--are designed for boys only. Above the middle heading, however, the styles are for both genders. This is clear because both boys and girls are shown in the photographs. This of course raises the question as to why there was a gender difference between short- and long-leg waist suit. We tend to think that girls at the time were wearing skirts and these long-leg waist suits looked unattractive, even when worn with long stockings. A HBC reader addresses the question in greater detail, "You raise an interesting question here. Look at the Sears ad for waist suits the same year (1941). Here we see a girl as well as boys wearing the long-legged model, so I think Wards still sold long-legged waist suits for girls in 1941 but showed them on a different page of the catalogue. Sometimes the girls' suits didn't button all the way down to the crotch and had lower necks so that they wouldn't show under open-necked blouses and dresses. But I believe that by 1941 long stockings were worn mostly with short-legged underwear by both boys and girls. If we notice the garter waist ads for the same period, we almost always see short underwear rather than long underwear. When we do see long underwear in the garter waist ads, the models are usually boys--at least from the late 1930s onwards. So what is the conclusion? I think Wards sold a few long-legged waist suits for girls (not shown in our ad) but that the majority were intended for boys. But I also think that most children who wore long stockings in 1941 (whether boys or girls) wore short-legged union suits or waist union suits because wearing long stockings on top of long underwear had become old-fashioned, unfashionable, and ugly. But Sears and Wards had to please many types of people. A few conservative buyers (probably from cold rural areas such as Minnesota or North Dakota) may have still wanted to purchase waist suits with long legs that could be worn with long stockings. Another point to be considered. Some mothers may have bought waist suits for children who did not wear long stockings very often and just wanted ordinary union suits without the support features. These of course were offered elsewhere in the same catalogue, but from a manufacturing point of view, adding shoulder tapes, a few extra buttons and garter tabs to a union suit was a pretty simple and inexpensive modification. So why not have garter tabs attached even if they weren't going to be used? It didn't cost much to add them. It would be like putting cigarette lighters in cars to be bought by people who don't smoke. I once inherited some waist union suits from a cousin (hand-me-downs) that had long legs and garter tabs attached. I wore these at about age 14 after I had stopped wearing long stockings and was wearing long trousers. But it was easy just to ignore the garter tabs and treat the garments as ordinary union suits." A reader suggests, "It might make matters a bit clearer to note garter waist ads which show boys wearing long stockings with both short underwear (as in the Wards garter waist ad for 1941) and with long underwear (as in the Sears garter waist ad for 1940). Another Sears garter waist ad shows both short and long underwear being worn with long stockings. These illustrations help make the point. Note that when long underwear is involved with garter waists, we see only boy models."

Short-leg Waist Suits

Wards offered quite a range of different waist suits. Here are the short-leg suits done in different suits.

R./S. "Better" . . . Ribbed Cotton

The Wards ad cooy read, "Sizes 2 to 12. 49 cents. each. 3 for $1.43. Snap or Button Fronts for Boys or Girls Slight inside fleecing adds extra warmth to these long wearing 100% American Cotton Waist Suits. Rayon trim at neck and front. Well made throughout with reinforced shoulder tapes, metal pinning tubes for garters, flatlocked seams. White. Even sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. See page 306 to measusre. Ship. wt. each 10 oz. State size. R--29 A 920 Button front. S--29 A 912 Snap front. Each garment 49 c., Three for $1.43."

T./U. "Better" ... Warm 10% Wool

The Wards ad copy read, "Sizes 2 to 12. 69 cents each. 3 for 2.00 Rayon Striped Cotton Waist Suits for Boys and Girls. The 10% new Wool makes them warmer than those at the left. Choice of two styles with "Easy-Help" elastic backs. Taped-on buttons for outer garments; rust-proof metal pinning tubes for garters. All seams faltlocked to resist strain of active wear. Elastic rib knit for stretchy fit. Ribbed cuffs at legs. Color: Cream. Even Sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. To measure see Page 306. [NB. Mothers determined the correct age size by measuring both the boy's height and the trunk--that is, the inches from shoulder through crotch and back to the starting point.] Ship. wt. each 7 oz.; three, 1 lb. 8 oz. Please state size in order. T--29 A 937--Low neck, sleeveless style. U--29 A 936 Dutch neck, short sleeve style. Each garment 69 c.; 3 for $2.00."

V./W. "Best" . . . Qualities with Snap Fronts

The Wards ad copy read, " 65 cents each. 3 for $1.89: Soft Combed Cotton Two lengths for Boys or Girls. Cuffs at legs, sleeves. "Easy-Help" elastic seat. Metal pinning tubes [for supporters]. Snap front. Rib knit. 100% American Cotton. Cream. Even Sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Ship. wt. 9 oz. State stize. V--29 A 1000 Trunk length. W--29 A 1001 Knee length. Each 65 c.; Three for $1.89."
79 cents each. 3 for $2.25: 10% Wool, Combed Cotton New Wool for warmth. Combed Cotton for extra wear. Two lengths for Boys or Girls. Rib knit. "Easy Help" seat. Metal pinning tubes {for supporters]. Snap front. Cream. Even Sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Ship. wt. each 9 oz. State size. V--29 A 1002--Trunk length. W--29 A 1003--Knee length. Each 79 c.; Three for $2.25."

Long-leg Waist Suits

The Wards heading read, "Boys' Comfytog Waist Suits. Husky reinforcements ... Right where They're Needed!" In these suits, mothers have a choice of the "Easy Help" elastic-back seat for greater ease in using the toilet or the more traditional three-button drop seat. The "Easy Help" style was aimed especially at children from about 2 to 6, while the button drop seat would have been more appropriate for boys and girls from 7 to 12 who would have less trouble with the buttons.]

X./Y. Heavy Weight Cotton ... Lightly Fleeced.

The Wards ad copy read, "Sizes 2 to 12. 59 cents each. 3 for $1.69. Rib Knit for Stretchy Fit. Selected Long Staple Yarns. Elastic "Easy Help" Back or Three-button Drop Seat. 100% American Cotton. Warmth and wear at a low price. Taped-on buttons for outer garments. Flatlocked seams resist strain. Rust-proof metal pinning tubes for garters. Color: White. Even Sizes: 2, 4, 8, 10 12. To measure see Page 306. Ship. wt. 4 oz.; three, 1 lb. 4 oz. "X--29 A 910--Long sleeves, ankle length style. 29 A 911--Short sleeves, ankle length (not shown). Suits with Three-Button Drop Seats Y--29 A 913--Long sleeves, ankle length style. 29 A 914--Short sleeves, ankle length (not shown) Each garment 59 c.; Three for $1.69. Packed with [Wear?/care?]. All with Convenient Button Drop Seats

Z. Extra Heavy Weight Cotton

The Wards ad copy read, "Ages 2 to 12. 69 cents each. 3 for 2.00. Extra Heavy Weight Cotton. Rib knit 100% American Cotton. Rust-proof metal pinning tubes for garters, taped-on buttons for outer garments. Flatlocked seams. Soft inside fleecing. Full cut sizes to prevent binding, Ribbed cuffs at sleeves, ankles. White. Even sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. To measure see Page 306. Ship. wt. 15 oz; three, 2 lbs. 3 oz. State size. Z--29 A 928--High neck, long sleeves, ankle length style. Each 69 c.; 3 for 2.00."

AA./BB. 10% Wool. Balance Cotton

The Wards ad copy read, "Sizes 2 to 12. 89 cents each. 3 for $2.59. 10% Wool. Balance Cotton. New Wool for more warmth. Slightly fleeced inside. Flatlocked seams; reinforced shoulder tapes. Full cut sizes. Rust-proof metal garter tubes. Rib knit with ribbed cuffs at ankles, sleeves. Taped-on buttons for outer garments. Cream. Even Sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Ship wt. each 3 oz. State size. AA--29 A 935--Short sleeves, ankle length style. BB--29 A 934--Long sleeves, ankle length style. Each 89 c.; 3 for $2.59.

CC. Medium Weight Cotton

The Wards ad copy read, "Sizes 2 to 12. 49 cents each. 3 for $1.43. Medium Weight Cotton Dependable quality at a low price. For more warmth, see the part Wools at left. Stretch rib knit 100% American Cotton. Full cut sizes prevent binding. Flat locked seams; reinforced shoulder tapes; rust-proof metal garter tubes. Color: White. Even sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. To measure see Page 306. Ship. wt. 15 oz.; 3, 2 lbs. 8 oz. State size in your order. CC--29 A 953--High neck, long sleeves, ankles length. Each 49 c.; 3 for $1.43."

Created: 12:32 AM 3/30/2006
Last updated: 12:32 AM 3/30/2006