U.S. Catalogs and Advertisements: Ward's Garter Waists (Fall-Winter, 1941-42)


Figure 1.--The Wards 1941-42 Fall and Winter Wards catalogue offered garter waists. Here four different styles of garter waist are displayed, including the Dr. Parker style (although the term is not used here). The appeal to mothers stresses both physical freedom (i.e. the waists are not restrictive) and good posture: "Adjustable `Free Action' Garter Waists ... Help Correct Posture".

The Wards 1941-42 Fall and Winter Wards catalogue offered garter waists. Here four different styles of garter waist are displayed, including the Dr. Parker style (although the term is not used here). The appeal to mothers stresses both physical freedom (i.e. the waists are not restrictive) and good posture: "Adjustable `Free Action' Garter Waists ... Help Correct Posture". These waists, in addition to supporting stockings, are supposed to act in part as shoulder braces. The fact that four different models of garter waist are offered for sale here would seem to suggest that the wearing of long stockings by children was by no means unusual. Interestingly, boy models are as frequent as girl models.

Wards

Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company.

Posture

The appeal to mothers stresses both physical freedom (i.e. the waists are not restrictive) and good posture: "Adjustable `Free Action' Garter Waists ... Help Correct Posture". These waists, in addition to supporting stockings, are supposed to act in part as shoulder braces. The fact that four different models of garter waist are offered for sale here would seem to suggest that the wearing of long stockings by children was by no means unusual. Interestingly, boy models are as frequent as girl models.

Four Models

The Wards 1941-42 Fall and Winter Wards catalogue offered garter waists (figure 1). Here five different styles of garter waist are displayed, including the Dr. Parker style (although the term is not used here).

Type 1

The Wards copy reads, "33c. Each. "Two-in-one Cambric waist and garter combination. Firmly attached taped-on bone buttons on front and back. Strong pin tabs. Metal eyelets. Adjustable. White only. Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Ship. wt. 4 oz. Be sure to state size. 31 A2032-33c; 2, 63c." The boy model appars to be about 7 or 8 years old. Note that this waist buttons down the back (like the German Leibchen) and might be a little complicated for a very young child to put on without assistance. This boy wears short underwear and extremely long stockings that reach very high up his thigh--an indication that by 1941 full-length stockings for children were being made extra-long so that the garters wouldn't show under the short skirts and pants then in fashion. The back view of this waist, showing the button closure, depicts a girl rather than a boy, making the point that the waist is equally suitable for both genders. Another notable feature of this waist is the presence of two rather than one row of waist buttons for fastening on shorts, skirts or other clothing.

Type 2

The Wards ad copy read, "35c. "Child's Nationally famous Hickory! [a well-known brand name for children's supporters]. Good Cotton Web straps help to prevent slipping. Attached garters. Colors: Black or White. State color. Ship wt. 3 oz.; two, 5 oz. 31 A 2063--Child's size. About 23 in. 35 c.; 2, 67 c. 31 A 2064--Misses size. About 30 in. 39 c.; 2, 75 c." This waist functions only as a supporter for stockings, having no buttons for additional clothing, and comes in a size for young women as well as children. The shoulder straps are held in place by straps across both back and chest. The garters are suspended directly from the shoulders. Children sometimes complained that this style, which has no waist belt, was less comfortable than the alternative styles. Although the model in this image is a girl (both front and back views), the style was intended equally for boys and girls--a point that becomes clear from other catalogues in which boys are shown modeling it.

Type 3

The Wards ad copy read, "33 c. Ea. This is the Dr. Parker style waist with non-eleastic shoulder straps which cross in back, a waistband with one row of buttons for additional clothing, and elastic supporters over the hips attached to the waistband, apparently by safety pins (although the safety pins in this case are not mentioned or clearly shown). The ad copy reads: "Good Quality. White Cotton. One row of taped-on buttons. Supports from shoulder. Adjustable. Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Ship. wt. 4 oz., 2, 7 oz. State size. 31 A 2045-33c; 2, 63 c."

Better Hickory Brand (not illustrated)

The Wards ad copy read, "Like the style above but with 2 rows of buttons. 31 A 2007--43 c.; 2, 83 c." Although a smiling boy model with hands on hips is depicted, the Dr. Parker style waist is equally suitable for girls. Again note that the stockings worn are quite long and that the boy in the image wears a short-legged union suit with buttons down the front. Although long stockings were occasionally worn with long underwear even as late as the 1940s, there was an increasing tendency to wear them with short-legged union suits, perhaps an indication that long stockings were frequently insisted upon by mothers as much for reasons of dressiness and formality as for warmth.

Type 4

The Wards ad copy read, "49 c. Ea. The ad copy reads "National advertised Hickory brand. Fine mercerized Sateen waist. Adjustable detachable garters. No pull. Bone buttons. Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. White only. Ship wt. 5 oz., two 9 oz. State size. 31 A 2078-49 c; 2, 95 c." This style of waist is more expensive than the others because of the Sateen material of which the vest and waistband are constructed. The supporters, which are attached by means of safety pins and can be replaced, are elasticized in the top part (with the buckle for adjusting length) but not in the pendants with the stocking fasteners. The reason for this combined elastic and non-elastic construction was durability. Note that there are cross pieces across the back and chest to prevent the sleeveless part of the waist from slipping off the shoulders and to keep the shoulders erect.







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Created: 1:02 AM 9/30/2004
Last updated: 1:02 AM 9/30/2004