Trousers: Stylistic Features--Creases


Figure 1.--Boys kneepants and shorts commonly had creases by 1920s, like these pictured in a 1920 New York catalog.

The trends in trouser creases have been identical in both men's and boys' trousers. Proper trousers should be worn with front creases. The only trousers which can be worn today without a crease are jeans, which should never have one. Yet trousers did not originally have a crease. Some sources suggest that it ws th British royals who provided us with creases. Creases in trousers are a relatively modern inovation. Images from the early and mid-19th cenbtury show trousers bing worn without creases. We are still developing information on creases in the late 19th and early 20th century. We definitely do not note creases in the 1880s, but we are less sure about the 1890s. Creases after World War I they became a symbol of the young generation, and when trousers widened in the 1920s they became the necessity they have remained to this date. The crease in trousers has come to be seen as a fashon necesity to show and maintain the line of the trousers. We have noted creases on all types of boys trousers, including kneepants, knickers, short pants, and long pants. There does not appear to have been any difference as to when creases were used on these different types of pants. HBC is not sure to what the use of creases was affected by the style of garments. We are currently assessing styles like Fauntleroy suits, sailor suits, tunic suits, Eton suits, Norfolk suits and others to see to what extent crease wete used and when they appeared. At this time, it does appear that creases were used in both conservative suits for older boys as well as sailor suits and other styles for younger boys.

Royal Influence

Some sources suggest that it ws th British royals who provided us with creases. One source indicate that it was Edward VII, who reportedly invemted them as Prince of Wales. We are not sure yet precisely when his occurred. His idea, however, was side creases formed by the way his trousers were folded for storage. It was Edward's son, George V, was also was very interested in clothes who first wore font creases. Again we are not positive just when this occurred. George was also very concened ith how hi childrn dressed. In fact he constantly criticised his son's if there was anything admiss with their sailor suits or kilts, like a lanyard or sporran out of place. Sailor suits and kilts were the only clothes he considered suitable for boys. At any rate George V wore front creases.

Chronology

Creases in trousers are a relatively modern inovation. Images from the early and mid-19th cenbtury show trousers bing worn without creases. We are still developing information on creases in the late 19th and early 20th century. Our initial assessment is that photogrphs of boys and boyswear catalogs before the turn of the century rarely give an indication of creases. This still needs to be confirmed. We definitely do not note creases in the 1880s, but we are less sure about the 1890s. Creases after World War I they became a symbol of the young generation, and when trousers widened in the 1920s they became the necessity they have remained to this date.

Fashion Necesity

The crease in trousers has come to be seen as a fashon necesity to show and maintain the line of the trousers. Trousers are the correct length when the crease 'breaks' on the shoe. To locate a crease correctly, line up the leg seams, then lay the trouser leg flat. The crease is precisely half-way between the two seams. Trousers without creases give a slovenly appearance. The only exception here are jeans or other casual pants like running shorts. We are less sure about corduroy whch has been worn both as jean-like casual pants and more formal suits. Maintaining a crease in cord trousers is a nit of a challenge. All modern trousers should be worn with creases. This used to be a problem requiring trousers to be onstantly pressed. Synthetic materials have simplified the problem of maintaining creased trousers. Synthetic fibers or blends with synyhetic fibers hold creases quite nicely, so it is no longer necessary to constantly iron trousers as was the case before World War II.


Figure 2.--Boys suits by the 1920s commonly had pants wwith creases. Note the above the knee style in this 1920s advertisement.

Social Connotations

Creases required a great deal of effort to maintain in the 19th and early 20th Centuries before the development of synthetic fibers. Thus it was expensive to purchase and maintain trousers with creases. Thus there was an element of social class associated with wearing nicely creased trousers in the years before synthetic fibers. Creases in serge or flannel obviously require more regular ironing. In addcition, experts advise resting wool trousers at least 1 day before wearing them again annd better still two consecutive days. This gives the natural resilience and spring in the wool fiber time to recover. Of course not everyone, especially in th 19th century, had a wardrobe extensive enough to rotate garment. A soldier's trick with heavy military serge was to rub soap inside the crease before pressing: that way it lasts longer.

Boys' Trousers

We have noted creases on all types of boys trousers, including kneepants, knickers, short pants, and long pants. There does not appear to have been any difference as to when creases were used on these different types of pants. We are still assessing when creases became standard on boys long and shortened trousers. After the turn of the century, creases clearly become on all kinds of boys trousers become increasingly common. This is true for long trousers, knickers, kneepants, and short pants. Creases on boys clothes began to appear around the turn of the century. By the 1920s virtually all dressy outfits for boys of all ages had sharp creases.

Long trousers


Kneepants

We have noticed creases in kneepants in the 1890s, but are not sure yet just when they began to beworn with creases.

Knickers

Creases appeared on knickers after the turn of the century. They were especially common on the knickers that came with a suit. They were on both abve and below the knee knickers. Knickers boys wore every day, in the years before synthetic fibers, often lost their creases with wear and mom didn't have time to iron every day.

Short trousers




Figure 3.--This portrait is unfortunately undated. HBC believes, however, that it was taken in the late 1890s. Hpefully he trike will eventually help us date it. Note the very shap creases in the knnepants of the boy's sailor suit.

Suit Styles

HBC is not sure to what the use of creases was affected by the style of garments. We are currently assessing styles like Fauntleroy suits, sailor suits, tunic suits, Eton suits, Norfolk suits and others to see to what extent crease wete used and when they appeared. At this time, it does appear that creases were used in both conservative suits for older boys as well as sailor suits and other styles for younger boys.






Christopher Wagner






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Createdf: March 31, 2002
Last updated: March 31, 2002