Figure 1.--This French school boy was photographed in 1952 by famed French photographer Doisneau. He wears a light colored back-buttoning smock (tablier) with gigham detaling at the front above the pleating and around the collar. Ginham was presumably chosen nevause it was a popular material for smocks and somed smocks were done in gingam, usually red or blue. Thios boy looks to be 9-10 years old. Click on the image for a more detailed assessment. |
Most smocks, except for gingham smocks were solid colors. A few had detailing of various forms. Usually the detailing was some kind of printed checked or gingam material across the front or around the collar to contrast with the solid colored smock. The detailing at the collar might be part of an actual collar or just around a collarless neck opening. Ginham was presumably chosen because it was a popular material for smocks and some smocks were done in gingam. This was more common with the lighter colored than the darker colored smocks. Almost always these were the back buttoning tabliers that had detailing rather than the front buttoning lab coat style of smock. We have noted this detailing on smocks after Word War II, but are not sure when it first appeared. There were a wide variety of smocks which appeared during the inter-war years, especially in the 1930s, but these smocks with detailing may have appeared after the War. Girls were more likely to wear smocks with patterens. The more most detailing may havd been an effort to provide a little styling and color to boys' smocks which were more commonly solid colors.
A European reader has provided some comments on the photograph and smock pictured here. He writes, "What a marvellous photography by Doisneau, and what a pity that
the most famed french phothograper (should we not say poet?) did not take the photograph so as to display full smock. So we have to guess about the photograph and what the smock was like. Is the boy really in a classroom, captivated by the teacher - or is he not
elsewhere dreaming of a better world (out of school)? I also wonfer about the detailing. The boy's smock is not the regular French school smock type: plain colour either grey, dark blue or black. So I guess the boy's mother was a real loving mother (most are) who
wanted his son to be just a bit different, and may have sewed the smock hefself. Interesting that the gingham detailing was not used to trim the cuffs (wrist) which usually would be the case. I guess also that the pocket was not entirely made out of gingham, but had just a stripe on the upper part. This is how the collar was done. It is not made of, but adorned with gingham trim--an unusual method. Still guessing, the waist band was entirely of gingham, closed in the back with a knot."
Most smocks, except for gingham smocks were solid colors. A few had detailing of various forms. Mothers apparently wanted to add some detailing to make the plain colred smocks a little more attractive. HBC believes that this was primarily the mothers work. We doubt if the noys were all that interested in the detailing.
This was more common with the lighter colored than the darker colored smocks. Almost always these were the back buttoning tabliers that had detailing rather than the front buttoning lab coat style of smock. HBC assumes that this was primarily because thee were the ones most commonly worn by th unger boys. Apparently older boys with front buttoning smocks didnot want the detailing.
Contrasting fabrics or cloths can be used in the detailing. This can be fabric in a different pattern and or color.
Usually the detailing was some kind of printed checked or gingam material across the front or around the collar to contrast with the solid colored smock. Ginham was presumably chosen nevause it was a popular material for smocks and some smocks were done in gingam.
Sometimes contrasting colors rather than patterns Were used for detailing. I am not sure just what colors were used. In some cases stripes might be added. Solid colored detailing could also be used on patterned smocks. As with the patterened detailing, the same detailig might be repeated on different parts of the smock.
One common way of detailing school smocks was the use of "croquets". We are not sure just when croquets were first used. We notice "croquets" being widely used in the 1950s, so presumably Croquets are braid trim added to clothing to give a chic look. Croquets for example are added to edge the collars of blouses, smocks, rompers, and dresses according the mother's sewing skills. Most of the crquets used on smocks were white, but some colored ones were also used. They were used on boys' smocks to about 10 years of age, but on smocks for older girls.
The detailing was generally applied on the same places, however, this varied a great deal from smock to smock. The most common spots were the collar, across the front above he smocking, and the pockets.
The detailing at the collar might be part of an actual collar. There were also collarless neck opening which were accented with contrasting detailing.
Back buttoning smocks normally had smocking at the front. For younger children embroidery might be added. The trim would added at the yoke of the farment right above the smocking.
Trim would often be added at the top of the pockets which almost all smocks had. Smock smocks had the pockets done in contrasting material. The pockets with just the trim were much more common.
We have noted this detailing on smocks after Word War II, but are not sure when it first appeared. There were a wide variety of smocks which appeared during the inter-war years, especially in the 1930s, but these smocks with detailing may have appeared after the War.
Girls were more likely to wear smocks with patterens. The more most detailing may havd been an effort to provide a little styling and color to boys' smocks which were more commonly solid colors.
