Long Stocking Spporters: Late 19th Century (1870-1900)


Figure 1.--Here are two types of stocking supporters that appeared in the late 19th century. The double-grip hose supporter with two pendants (as shown here) seems to have been a pecularily American idea. European hose supporters (especially in Germany, Russia, and the Scandanavian countries) had the same kind of clasp but were usually single straps sewn to a bodice or Leibchen, commonly with two garters for each stocking in front and in back, rather than the single strap with two pendants in a Y-shape and worn over the hips as in Canada and the United States. German hose supporters often omitted the clasp altogether. These were sometimes merely elastic straps with button holes spaced at regular intervals for adjustment of length and attached to large buttons (Wascheknopfen) sewn by hand onto the top of the stockings.

Stocking supporters became widely worn in the late 19th Century as kneepants became increasing common in the 1870s. Boys were increasingly wearing them and gradually older boys began wearing them. The increasing use of kneepants and long stockings led to a problem. How to hold the stockings up. This was a special problem for active boys. Make-shift arrangements could work, but there was an increasing demand for a simple device to hold the stockings more securely. This was especially true in America where long stockings were particularly prevalent. To address this problem, stocking supporters were developed. As best we can tell the first stocking supporters appeared in America about 1875. European mothers seem more inclined to use make-shift arrangements. Knee pants were worn as part of various suit styles, including Fauntleroy, sailor, Norfolk, double breasted, single beasted, and other suits. Boys mostly wore long stockings with these kneepants suits. It was not considered proper for boys, except for the very youngest, not to cover their legs. This varied substantially from country to country. Boys wore long stockings, and thus needed supporters to keep their stockings up, with other styles of clothes. These styles included dresses, smocks, pinafores, kilt suits (but not proper Scottish kilts), tunics, Buster Brown suits, and others.

Popularity

Stocking supporters became widely worn in the late 19th Century as kneepants became increasing common in the 1870s. Boys were increasingly wearing them and gradually older boys began wearing them. The increasing use of kneepants and long stockings led to a problem. How to hold the stockings up. This was a special problem for active boys. Make-shift arrangements could work, but there was an increasing demand for a simple device to hold the stockings more securely.

Country Trends

This was especially true in America where long stockings were particularly prevalent. Not only were European mothers more inclined to use make-shift arrangements, but long stockings were not as common in some European countries as they were in America.

Development

To address this problem, stocking supporters were developed. As best we can tell the first stocking supporters appeared in America about 1875. We are not sure yet just who invented the different devices.

Fashion Trends

Knee pants were worn as part of various suit styles, including Fauntleroy, sailor, Norfolk, double breasted, single beasted, and other suits. Boys mostly wore long stockings with these kneepants suits. Boys wore long stockings, and thus needed supporters to keep their stockings up, with other styles of clothes. These styles included dresses, smocks, pinafores, kilt suits (but not proper Scottish kilts), tunics, Buster Brown suits, and others.

Propriety

It was not considered proper for boys, except for the very youngest, not to cover their legs. Of course this was also true for girls. This varied substantially from country to country. Climate was a factor. Long stockings were most common in northern lattitudes, but social propriety was also an important factor.

Dress Reform

The hose supporter was invented about 1875 in response to various dress-reform movements which tried to bring physical health and comfort into consideration for the design of clothing. Looser-fitting waists, for instance, took the place of very tight, restrictive corsets that forced the body into unnatural shapes. And round garters, which had been common until 1875, gave way to the elastic strap attached to a corset or waist as a means of supporting stockings without the unhealthy constriction of blood vessels involved in the wearing of round garters. Mothers were urged to buy supporters for their boys and girls as both more comfortable and healthier garters than the old-fashioned round garters that had been common earlier. [Lester and Oerke]

Types

Here are two types of stocking supporters that appeared in the late 19th century. The double-grip hose supporter with two pendants as shown here (Figure 1). It seems to have been a pecularily American idea. European hose supporters (especially in Germany, Russia, and the Scandanavian countries) had the same kind of clasp but were usually single straps sewn to a bodice or Leibchen, commonly with two garters for each stocking in front and in back, rather than the single strap with two pendants in a Y-shape and worn over the hips as in Canada and the United States. German hose supporters often omitted the clasp altogether. These were sometimes merely elastic straps with button holes spaced at regular intervals for adjustment of length and attached to large buttons (Wascheknopfen) sewn by hand onto the top of the stockings.

Colors

Originally hose supporters were made in various colors--yellow, red, pink, lavender, pale blue, for instance, as well as black and white. But, for boys and girls, black and white became the standard colors, and black seems to have been the favored color for boys' supporters.

Decades

We do not have much photohraphic evidence for stocking supporters. They were of course usually covered by the child's clothing. In sopme images they can partiaslly be seen, but not well enough to make out much detail. Unlike many other garments, for hose supporters we have to rely primarily on catalogs and periodical advertisements. The earliest information we have found dates from the 1870s.

The 1870s

I believe boys began wearing stocking supporters in the 1870s as kneepants were becoming increasingly popular for boys. I have no details on the suppoters at this time.

The 1880s

We note the Phonexix Daisey Hose Supporter we think from the early 1880s, although we can not be sure about the date. American boys in the 1880s begin to commonly wear kneepants, although older boys still mostly wear long pants. Boys commonly wore kneepants suits with long stockings. Only the very youngest boys wear short socks. Thus we begin to see garments to hold up the stockings. We notice an L. Stein ad for stocking supporters (1885). Sears Roebuck launched their mail order business in 1886 and became along with Wards the two principal American mail order companies. These catalohgs thus become an invaluable source of information. We notice the Double Ve Waist (1886).

The 1890s

We note ads for stocking supporters in mail order catalogs like Wards and Sears during the 1890s. Sears in its 1897 catalog, for example, adverized stocking supporters for boys and girls in sizes up to age 14.

Sources

Lester, Katherine Morris and Bess Viola Oerke. Accessories of Dresss: An Illustrated History of . . . Frills and Furbelows of Fashion (Peoria, Illinois: Manual Arts Press, 1940).







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Created: 7:13 AM 11/18/20050
Last updated: 5:45 AM 1/10/2007