English Sailor Suit Garments: Coats


Figure 1.--The CDV portrait of this unidentified boy was taken in Henry Wayland of Blackheath. The CDV is undated, but looks to have been taken in the 1880s. (CDVs were popular in Erope after they had been largely replaced by caninet cards in America.) He wears a pea coat, often called a reefer, over his sailor suit.

The two principal navy-styled coasts are pea coats and reefer jackets. A pea coat is a cold weather outer coat. It is done in heavy wool and almos always navy blue. We do not have a great dealm of information, but believe that it was popularized the Royal Navy. We are not entirekly sure why they are called Pea coats. Some sources suggest that it is a partial translation of Dutch "pijjekker". Pea coats appear to have been adopted by the Royal Navy (early-19th century). We are not sure when boys began wearing them, we suspect after mid-century when the sailor suit began to become popular for boys. We nore English boys wearing them in the late-19th century with their sailor suits. The length exteded below the waist. Pea coats were not always worn with sailor suits, but that seems to have been popular in the 19th century. The pea coat was adopted other European countries and the United States and like the sailor suit was also worn by boys in those countries. The pea coat today is a classic style and worn by boys who would not wear a sailor suit. The longer cut pea coat was originally an officers coat, but for boys the name reefer became very populasr, Since World War II, reefer jackets, another coat with naval origins, have become more popular for children. Several private schools adopted the reefer jacket as part of their school uniform. Many children in state schools wore duffle coats during the winter, but not as uniform item.

Pea Coat

A pea coat is a cold weather outer coat. It is done in heavy wool and almos always navy blue. We do not have a great dealm of information, but believe that it was popularized the Royal Navy. We are not entirekly sure why they are called Pea coats. Some sources suggest that it is a partial translation of Dutch "pijjekker". "Pij" is a coarse cloth, first appearing in Middle Dutch. We suspect that the first fabric used for these jackets was Dutch or the Dutch word hab deen used in England. The Dutch of course have a very strong naval tradition as well and fought naval wars with Britain (17th century). Pea coats appear to have been adopted by the Royal Navy (early-19th century). The pea coat was designed to be warm in cold weather while still short enough to allow sailors to go up into the rigging and work unencumbered in the shrouds and rigging of a sail ship. We are not sure when boys began wearing them, we suspect after mid-century when the sailor suit began to become popular for boys. We nore English boys wearing them in the late-19th century with their sailor suits. The design can vary, but they generally are double breasted with broad lapels. Wooden or metal buttons were common, but we see plastic buttons in the mid-20th cedntury. They often have vertical or slash side pockets, but we also see horizonal flap pockes. The length exteded below the waist. Pea coats were not always worn with sailor suits, but that seems to have been popular in the 19th century. The pea coat was adopted other European countries and the United States and like the sailor suit was also worn by boys in those countries. The pea coat today is a classic style and worn by boys who would not wear a sailor suit.

Reefer Jacket

"Reef" is a sailing term. Itmean reducing the area of the sail to catch the wind. Of course sailors needed to go up into the rigging to do this. And duringthe winter they needed warm jackets. The reefer is essentially the same as a pea coat. In the Royal Navy, the reefer was the officers version of the pea coat. It was basically the same as a pea coat, but was cut longer because officers did not have to go up in the rigging. It was sometimes referred to as a bridge coat because that was wear the oiffcers were. The offiers woukld have gold buttons and epaulettes on their coats. The term reefer was adopted for the pea coats boys wore. In fact it was more common than the term pea coat evn though it was a shorter cut pea coat and did not have the trim of an officer's reefer.

Duffle Coat

The Royal Navy reflaced the pea coat during World War II with the duffle coat. As sail ships were no longer in use, alonger-cut coat could be used. The duffle coat was named after the Belgian town of Duffle, which produced the heavy, coarse cloth. They were alternatively known as 'Convoy' Coats, as they were issued to sailors on the Artic Convoys, or 'Monty' Coats, as they were a favourite of General Montgomery. The features which the pea coat didn't have were, the hood, which was extra large so the a naval cap could be worn, and the toggle and rope fastening which allowed the wearer to fasten the jacket whilst wearing gloves. Large numbers of these were sold after the war as surplus. They were common wear for young men in the 50 -60's. A firm called Gloverall bought a huge quantity. They became associated with 'Lefties', as Michael Foot, the Labour Politician wore one on many occasions. Gradually they became popular with children, especially boys. Unlike the reefers, they were not worn with sailor suits which had gone out of style. Several private schools adopted the reefer jacket as part of their school uniform. Many children in state schools wore reefer jackets during the winter, but not as uniform item.






HBC





Sailor Suit Country Related Pages:
[Return to theMain English sailor suit garment page]
[Return to theMain reefer jacket page]
[American] [English] [French] [German] [Italian] [Polish]



Other RelatedHBC Pages:
[Sailor suits] [Kilts] [Smocks] [Pinafores] [Sailor Hats] [Blouses]
[Ring Bearers] [Long hair] [Ringlet curls] [Hair bows] [Bangs] [Collars] [Bows]



Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:
[Introduction] [Activities] [Biographies] [Chronology] [Clothing styles] [Countries] [Girls]
[Bibliographies] [Contributions] [FAQs] [Glossary] [Images] [Links] [Registration] [Tools]
[Boys' Clothing Home]




Created: 4:04 PM 12/13/2009
Last updated: 7:37 PM 12/13/2009