Figure 1.--Pastel colored shirts, including pink, were an important part of the Preppy look. This boy wears a polo shirt, but pastel buttob-downs were also worn.
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Figure 1.--Pastel colored shirts, including pink, were an important part of the Preppy look. This boy wears a polo shirt, but pastel buttob-downs were also worn. |
The prep or preppy style is a distinctly American fashion. It became popular in the 1950s and was based on the fashions popular in the elite northestern preparaory boarding schools. These schools wre based on England's famed public (elite private secondary) schools, although the term preparatory in Britain is used to describe schools for primary age children. We note some of the preppy garments such as polo shirts and button-down shirts in the 1930s. It was, however, not until the 1950s that preppy styles became a major fashion style in America. Preppy fashions peaked in the 1950s and 60s. Preppy fashions have never really gone out of style, although other fashions have supplanted them in popularity. They are classic styles that are still worn today. Preppy fashions in fact made a comne back in the 1980s. The inspiration for preppy fashions were to a large part sports played at country clubs and prep schools. The polo shirt and button-down shirt were polo fashions. We assume golf, sailing, and tennis were also important but do not know the specifics yet. Bermuda was a popular tourist destination for the Northestern money class in the 1920s-50s. We suspect this may have been an influence for the Preppy preference for pastel colors. There were several garments especially associate with Preppy fashions. There were both girl's and boy's garments. This is somewhat complicated by the fact that girls would commonly wear boy's garments, but boys would not wear girls garments. Many of these are classic garments which have persisted as popular fashion items. Preppy fashions are known for their pastel colors, especially pastel shirts. The most characteristic color for pants were khakis. The term "preppy" began to be used in the 1960s. People reacted quite differently to the term. Here both fashion and social attitudes were involved. Some call Preppy fashions "nauseating". Much of the debate over the Preppy look focuses more on cultural issues.
The prep or preppy style is a distinctly American fashion. It became popular in the 1950s and was based on the fashions popular in the elite northestern preparaory boarding schools. The elite New England prep schools (such as Andover, Exeter, Hotchkiss, and Phillips) were founded on the basis of the English "public" schools (such as Eton, Harrow, and Winchester). Many of the schools were founded in historical periods like the 16th century. With the acquisition of Empire, the British public school by the 19th century had a new mission. The schools were needed to produce the educated elite needed to both administer the Empire and to provide the leadership of an Anglox-Saxon, Protestant dominated world. Although America did not have an empire on the scale of Britain, the same ethos of a world led by superior Anglo-Saxon, Protestant values was promoted at the American prep schools. The English public schools were actually elite private secondary schools. Although the term preparatory in Britain is used to describe schools for primary age children. The British preparatory school or prep school was created specifically for younger boys to prepare them for the rigors of boarding at a public school which were a secondary-level school. American preparatory schools were secindary-level schools like the English public schools, yet they took the name of the British-primary level private schools. We are not sure why this was, perhaps because the term "public" school meant state school in America. The American preparatory did seem suitable as it was designed to prepare boys for university entrance.
We note some of the preppy garments such as polo shirts and button-down shirts in the 1930s. It was, however, not until the 1950s that preppy styles became a major fashion style in America. Preppy fashions were never the dominnt style in America, although they were very important in the 1950s and early 60s. Preppy fashions were, however, a very influential style and have continued to be worn into the early 2000s.
Preppy fashions peaked in the 1950s and 60s. Preppy fashions have never really gone out of style, although other fashions have supplanted them in popularity. They are classic styles that are still worn today. Preppy fashions in fact made a come back in the 1980s. A reader writes, "In California, the preppy style was popular for elemntary and Junior High boys in the early to mid 80's. Izod and Le Tigre were the polo shirts of choice (the logo on the left front was VERY important), along with OP cord shorts and striped tube socks. The stripes, the shorts and shirts had to match, or at least compliment each other. When they kids stared pushing their tube socks down, they still made sure the stripes matched the shirt and shorts. Some of my LL players wore a red polo shirt under their baseball jerseys. When the boys would wear longs, it was Levi or OP cords (but the socks stripes still had to match). The preppy look declined in the later 80s when blue jeans and longer madras shorts became popular once again."
We note preppy fashions continuing to be worn into the early 2000s.
The basic preppy look is understated but quietly fshionble. Some observers argue that "Preppy" fashion is famously low-key because the families and youth come from affluent families which see no need to flaunt their wealth. Of course there is a subtle message in some of the clothes which are influenced by sports like: golf, polo, sailing, and tennis. These are of course all country club type sports. Rugby shirts also became a popular preppy garment and these shirts were of course based on rugby--one of the principal public school sport. Rugby was played in the American prep schools and virtually no where else in America. Even in the 2000s when fashions became dominated by Hip-hop styles, brands like Tommy Hilfiger with preppy styles was an especially popular brand name.
The inspiration for preppy fashions were to a large part sports played at country clubs and prep schools. The polo shirt and button-down shirt were polo fashions. We assume golf, sailing, and tennis were also important but do not know the specifics yet. Bermuda was a popular tourist destination for the Northestern money class in the 1920s-50s. We suspect this may have been an influence for the Preppy preference for pastel colors.
The basic material in most preppy garments is cotton. All the Preppy fashion main stays (polo shirts, Oxford cloth button-down shirts, and khaki lacks) were cotton fabrics.
Preppy fashions are known for their pastel colors, especially pastel shirts. The most characteristic color for pants were khakis. While colors were normally muted, omve exception was loud plaid sports jackets. Here Madras was especially popular. There were also Madras shirts and Bermuda shorts. But they were always worn with solid colors. A Madras short would be worn with khaki pants. Madras shorts (never longs) would we worn with a solid colored (normally white or a pastel color) shirt.
There were several garments especially associate with Preppy fashions. There were both girl's and boy's garments. This is somewhat complicated by the fact that girls would commonly wear boy's garments, but boys would not wear girls garments. Many of these are classic garments which have persisted as popular fashion items.
The polo shirt and Oxford cloth button0-down shirts were Preppy mainstays.
Izod/LaCoste (alligator) polo shirts were favorites. The length and shape of the collar varied somewhat over time, but te buttown-downs persisted. There also might be a button closure at the back of the collar.
A less lasting fashion was Argyle sweaters/vests with matching socks. The ties have varied over time, but at the height of the Preppy fashion era (late 1950s and early 60s) the ties wer quite narrow. The Preppy look favored blazers over sports coats. A blue blazer was a standard. One sports coat that was popular were Madras plaids. A standard for these blazers and sports coats as well as with just polo shirts was khaki pants. Blue blazers were also worn with grey flannel pants. The Preppy look also introduced Bermuda shorts to boys. A dressy look was wearing Argyle kneesocks with Bermuda shorts, but this was not a popular fahion hit, Bermuda shorts with white athletic socks proved more popular.
Girls might wear frilly-collard shirts. Knee length pleaed skirts with cable knee socks were also popular with girls. One source notes" circle-skirts and bobby sox". We do not pretend to be experts on girls fashions, but these seem to be popular 1950s styles rather than Preppy styles. Girls might wear their sweaters with the sleeves tied around them. This might be considered a little afectatious. Boys some times did this also, but was seen as exceedingly afectatious.
the classic shoe associated with the Preppy-look fduring the 1950s-60s was the penny loafers, especially Bass Wejans. Loafers with barrel rows wee not quite right. Latter Sperry Topsiders became a major Preppy part of the Preppy look with their sailing associations.
The most popular hair style during the peak of the Preppy era (1950s and erarly 60s) was the crew cut. Girl might wear ponytails.
The preppy style was primarily an American style. Thus the preppy section here is largely about America. A French reader, however, tells us, "A similar fashion in France was called " bon chic bon genre " (BCBG). That means something like "smart well-behaved" look. The BCBG look gave to the child a touch that suggested he was well smartly and well brought-up. It was a bit like the children from the former time which were enfants modèles. The term BCBG appeard in 1970s and contrasted with the more sloppy clothes that came into fashion after the 1968 Paris student riots. After the 1968 riots, the changes in fashion were very significant. To day some children are not fond to adopt this BCBG look and prefer to keep a sport appearance. My three children liked BCBG garments, thus my son about 16-18 years chose BCBG items. They are now grown and my grandchildren constantly wear the BCBG styles.
The term "preppy" began to be used in the 1960s. People reacted quite differently to the term. Here both fashion and social attitudes were involved. Some call Preppy fashions "nauseating". Much of the debate over the Preppy look focuses more on cultural issues. Some liked the classic clean-cut look. An important part of the Preppy look indeed was neatness, tidiness
and careful grooming. Here many liked to emulate the look of the society crowd. Others did not like the conservative look of the Anglo-Saxon old money elite. Some saw the youth at the elite prep schools as spoiled, snobby, and narrow minded. The popularity of Preppy fashions among the country-club set made it a cultural target. Perhaps the best known literary attack was The Catcher in the Rye. The main character, Holden Caulfield, resented what he called the "fakes" at elite New England prep school. Then there was the competing "rebel" look popularuzed by James Dean in the movie "Rebel Without a Cause". Here styles focused on black leather jackets, white "T"-shirts (preferably with rolled-up sleeves, duck tails, plenty of greece in the hair, pegged jeans, and motercycle boots. In short of the virtual antithesis of the Oreppy look.
Birnbach, Lisa. The Official Preppy Handbook. Birnbach published her book in the conservative 1980s. It is alight-hearted treatment of the subject, but her book inspired some rather vitriolic responses, showing the range of feeling associated with the Preppy style. Often the criticism is more of a social criticism than than a fashion objection.
101 Uses for a Dead Preppie
I Hate Preppies Handbook.
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