Figure 1.--This English boy, probably in the early 20th century wears a mortar board cap. A HBC reader believes that a date in the late 19th century is more likely. Also notice the huge Eton collar--one of the largest we have ever seen. I'm not sure what school he was attending.

Mortar boards are usually associated with schoolmasters (gown and mortar board) and graduation ceremonies, but have also been worn by schoolboys in the past. Academic costumes date back to the Medieval era, around the 13th century. Europe men and women at the time commonly wore gowns or robes in a variety in colors and material. At first there was no great extinction for academics, but gradually distinctive gowns were adopted for different professions, trades and religious orders. Students and teachers at the early medieval universities (Paris, Bologna, Oxford, and Cambridge) organized into guilds. These academic costume futher evolved into distinctive gowns for Bachelors of Arts (the apprentices), Masters of Arts (the teachers), and Doctors (teachers who had completed postgraduate studies). The gowns were basically the same, much of the distinctive characteristics in the academic costumes were in the hood. The hood was originally a practical element of dress, but gradually evolved into a separate and entirely decorative garment, draped over the down the back. The academic cap was a more modern development. The cap was first conferred as a symbol of the M.A. degree. Some of these Master's caps were stiff, some soft, some square, some round with a tuft in the center. Today's tassel is an elaboration of the tuft. Oxford University's "mortar board" became a sandard at schools throughout England. (It also became the standard style used for formal occassions at American schools and universities.) In England the mortar board was actually worn by boys as part of the school uniform. The most cmmin style was the Oxford University mortar board. Not a very practical form of headgear perhaps. Some cathedral choristers still wear mortar boards. We have not noted them to any extent after World War II, with the exception of some cathedral choirs. We note the choristers at Rochester Cathedral choir (Kent) wearing mortar boards. we also notice the choristers at St. Paul's wearing mortar boards.