American Shirt-like Garments: Chronological Trends--The 1850s


Figure 1.--This Daguerreotype pictures an unidentified man and his son, we believe in the 1850s, although the 40s is possible. The design on covers is of Doves over an Urn with flowers. The double mat is of gold raised florals and scrolls with geometric border. The boy wears a coolar burroining shirt with aly laege collar. Note the long, blouced sleeves. Like most shirts for younger boys, it buttoned on to the pants. Put your cursor on the imsage for a closer view of the shirt.

We know much more about the mid-19th century than any other earlier period. Photographic images, especilly in America, become available in steadily increasing numbers. The greatly increased number of images at that time provide a great deal of information on all aspect of fashion, including shirt-like garments and collars. Shirts with small collars seem the dominant type at mid-century, but we do see some larger collars as well. The collars here seem on the larger side of the collars popular at the time. Notably boys commonly wore shirts without jackets. This changed in the 1860s. But it means that we have a lot of images showing boys wearing shirts in the 1850s without jackets covering them up. We think that many boys did not have proper suit jackets. This was much less common in the 60s which probably is a reflection of growing affluence in America. The collars were mostly part of the shirt and not detachable, an inovation that appeared at the end of the 1840s and was grew in popularity. It is not always possible, however, to detect detachable collars. We note collars in a range of styles. We see mostly pointed collars, inclusing Eton styles. We see some rounded collars. Most shirts buttined at the collar. The shits worn here were a less common style. Men commonly wore stocks, boys less commonly wore neckwear. All shirts had long sleeves. Most blouced at the wrist cuff, but less elaborately than in the 40s. Younger boys had shirts which buttoned on to their pants. Most boys wore their shirts buttoned at the collar, often without neckwear. Most shirts seem to have been plain, light colors. We also see shirts in patterns, often plaid or large checks. They were worn both tucked in and loose, rather like tunics. Some boys wore them with belts, also giving a tunic look.

Photography

We know much more about the mid-19th century than any other earlier period. Photographic images, especilly in America, become available in steadily increasing numbers. The greatly increased number of images at that time provide a great deal of information on all aspect of fashion, including shirt-like garments and collars.

Elements

Shirts have several elements. The collars and sleeves are the most prominant. Shirts with small collars seem the dominant type at mid-century, but we do see some larger collars as well. The collars here seem on the larger side of the collars popular at the time. Notably boys commonly wore shirts without jackets. This changed in the 1860s. But it means that we have a lot of images showing boys wearing shirts in the 1850s without jackets covering them up. We think that many boys did not have proper suit jackets. This was much less common in the 60s which probably is a reflection of growing affluence in America. The collars were mostly part of the shirt and not detachable, an inovation that appeared at the end of the 1840s and was grew in popularity. It is not always possible, however, to detect detachable collars. We note collars done in white even with colored and patterned shirts. These may be detachable collars even though some are relatively short. We are not yet sure about this. White collar of course would be easier to wash. We note collars in a range of styles. We see mostly pointed collars, inclusing Eton styles. We see some rounded collars. Most shirts buttoned at the collar. The shits worn here were a less common style. All shirts had long sleeves. Most blouced at the wrist cuff, but less elaborately than in the 40s. Younger boys had shirts which buttoned on to their pants.

Neckwear

Men commonly wore stocks, boys less commonly wore neckwear. Most boys wore their shirts buttoned at the collar, often without neckwear.

Colors and Patterns

Most shirts seem to have been plain, light colors. Black and white photography leaves us guessing about the colors. We also see shirts in patterns, often plaid or large checks.

Tucking

We see boys wearing shirts both tuvked in and wiorn out. They were worn both tucked in and loose, rather like tunics. We are not entirely sure if these are different garments or the same garments worn differently. Some boys wore them with belts, also giving a tunic look. These were almost always the patterened garments.








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Created: 9:46 PM 2/24/2010
Last updated: 9:13 PM 1/26/2014