Figure 1.--Older American boys by 1909 were mostly wearing knicker rather than kneepants suits. Kneepants were, however, still available. Notice the suit on the right comes with an extra pair of pants, kneepants which the catalog refers to as "straight" pants. |
Ucanttear in its 1909 catalog off several different styles of mostly knicker suits for boys 8-16 years of age. They referred to them as "knee pants suits" in the heading, perhaps bcause not all are knicker suits. All had double breasted styled jackets. One of these suits had an extra pair of "straight" pants, meaning kneepants. Kneepants in another instance are called "regular" pants. Each of the suits were shown as being worn with long stockings and not kneesocks. Strangely two of the illustrations are repeated, suggesting the style is the same, but the material different.
HBC knows little about Ucanttear. The name is clerly an aliteration of "You can't tear," emphasizing the toughness of the product. We have seen their catalog pages from 1909 to 1914, but they presumably operated oiver a larger time frame. They may have been a Sears brand, but I am not sure about that.
Under the heading "Ucantear Brand Boys' Knee Pants Suits", the ad copy read: "All the latest styles and patterns. Ucantear Brand Boys' Suits are manufactured and sold only by us. They are made with such features as double stitched and taped seams, pocket bar tacks, bottom facings, padded shoulders, interlined fronts, reinforced seat, and reinforced fronts. It is through these featutes that our Ucantear brand has gained the reputation of being the strongest and best wearing boys' clothing on the market. Sizes to fit boys from 8 to 16 years of age. When ordering give age of boy. If he is extra large or small for his age mention this and the size of suit which he is now wearing."
HBC as a normal course prefers to adopt the terminology used in contemporary sources to describe the various garments and fashions aseessed. This is not, however, always possible. In many cases advertisers and fashion commentators were not always consistent in the use of the various terms. Kneepants were not always called kneepants. Even more confusing, the term kneepants was sonmetimes applied to knickers and short pants. This to avoid confusion, we have had to adopt a single term and use that rather than the terms used in contemporary sources. The catalog page shown here shows what are clearly knicker suits, yet they are called kneepants. They may have used this term when both knickers and kneepants were offerred. Various terms other than kneepants were used, including "straight" and "regular" pants. Examples like this made it necessary to adopt generally accepted terms rather than just follow the terms used in each of the various contemprary catalogs and publications from which we have drawn images. Note that one of the suit included a pair of kneepants which they refer to as "straight" pants in addition to the knickers. And another suit had kneepants ("regular" pants) rather than knickers.
Figure 2.--Note the creases in the suit pants, an inovation for men and boys during the 1900s. |
Ucanttear offered six styles of knicker suits, all with double breasted jackets in sizes from 6-16 years of age. They were priced from $2.60-$3.65, but the higher priced suit include an extra pair of pants.
Stylish double breasted suit with knickerbocker pants, in soft finished material. Patern, dark stone gray with stripes in black and light gray. As illustrated with three outside pockets, cuff effect on sleeves. Derby back with false plaits and buttons at end of side seams. Perfevtly tailored, interlined, padded, and well stayed. Bar tacks on all pockets, bottom facings, and good button dstands on coats. Knickerbocker pants, doubler stiched and taped seams, suspender buttons, and strap and buckle at knee. Extra buttons and patch piece free. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Mention age of boy.
Special value in a knicker bocker suit with extra pair straight pants. Material, soft finish Union cassimere. Pattern, dark navy blue with a faint stripe effect in black, green, and dark maroon. Suits in this material and style always sell extremely well and we have endeavored to give the greatest possible value. Our Ucanttear brand has no equal for quality of material or workmanship. Buy it once and you won't buy any other brand. This is proven by the enormous increase in our sales of boys' clothing. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Give age of boy.
Dressy worsted finish suit in one of the season's newest effects. Material, worsted front with a cotton chain in the back. Pattern, black with neat stripes formed by alternating gray, red, and black threads. Notice the beautiful shape of the lapels, the stylish flap on thepockets, cuff effect on the sleeves, etc. Double breasred style with slit in the back. Seams, double stitched and taped. Bottom facings, good button stands, well padded, interlined, and lined with extra strong Italian. Pants, full cut knickerbocker style with side pockets, hip pocket, suspender buttons, strap and buckle at knee. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Give age of boy.
Extra durable school suit with knickerbocker pants. Material, strong cheviot cloth. Pattern medium gray and green mixture with a faint stripe effect. Exactly as illustrated with stylish long lapels, fancy flaps on all pockets, pretty cuff effect in sleeves, false plaits at side seams, known as a Berby back. Substantially tailored and well trimmed suit at a price which we know cannot be duplicated elsewhere. Extra buttons and patch piece free. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Mention age of boy.
Figure 3.--The suit on the left came with kneepants, which are referred to as "regular" pants in the ad copy. The poredominance of knicker suits shows that knickders by 1990 had begun to replace kneepants for older boys. |
One of the newest models of the season in a double breasted suit with regular pants. Material, medium weight wool filled cheviot. Pattern, latest olive brown stripe effect. Stylish long roll lapels. , fancy shaped flaps on all pockets, neat cuff effecton sleeves, derby back. French seams, canvas fronts, well-padded shoulders, bottom facings. Pants regular style with three buttons at knee, suspender buttons, side pockets, and hip pockets. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Give age of boy. Sizes 8 to 16 years. Mention age of boy.
An all wool knickerbocker suit in a fancy model. Pattern, handsome dark gray stripe effect with colorings in light gray, green, and orange. Materail, all wool medium weight cheviot. New style with fancy shaped lapels, neat flaps and buttons on all pockets, stylish cuffs, shaped with a slit in back. Knickerbocker pants with side pockets, hip pocket, belt loops, suspender buttons, and strap and buckle at the knee. Well lined and perfectly tailored garments.
The most important observation here is how knicker suits were replacing kneepants suits, atleast in outfits for older boys. Also note the popularity of double breasted jackets. All of these suits are shown to be worn with long stockings and not kneesocks. Note that all of the pants with these suits are shown as worn with creases. Trouser creases were not common in the 1890s, but clearly by 1909, a well dressed boy had to have creases in his suit pants. Notice that there are no extra pair of long pants offered.
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