Figure 1.--Boys costumes are fairly standard, either black long pants or blazers and kilts worn with white shirts and ties. |
Modern costumes are quite different from those worn historically at feises. The dance costume has changed greatly from traditional garb. Boys doing Irish dance wear either long black pants or kilts. The girls
wear dresses, never kilts for performances. Some schools do allow the girls to wear kilts for practice. Reserving the kilts for boys is done in
part because the kilt was the ancient Celtic male garment and in part so the
boys aren't dressed like the girls. This would discourage many younger
boys fro participating in Irish dancing.
The dance costume has changed greatly from traditional garb. In the 1800s, dance masters wore
hats, swallowtail coats, knee breeches, white stockings, and black shoes with silver buckles
probably similar to today's hard shoes. (The expression "cover the buckle" seemed to mean crossing
your feet so rapidly while dancing that the shine of the buckle covered
the entire area.) In the 1800s, it is likely that female dancers wore
ordinary peasant dresses or perhaps their "Sundaybest" and ribbons formed
into flowers or crosses.
After 1893 with the revival of Irish culture, the quest for a traditional Irish costume began. Pipers adopted the kilt which older male dancers later adopted in the 1910s and 1920s. Ironically, little evidence
supports the argument that the kilt originated in Ireland; however, it is clearly Celtic. Today, male dancers wear either kilts or long pants.
After 1893, the typical dance costume consisted
of a hooded cloak over a white dress with a sash. An alternative to the cloak was a shawl. By the
1930s the cloak was dropped and the shawl evolved into the current "shawl" worn on the back of
costumes; this shawl linked to the traditional Irish "brath" which was rectangular and attached to the
outfit by brooches or pins. Until the 1980s, a cord was often worn around the waist, dangling to the
knees, ending with a tassel. Dancers also might wear a small coat or vest
Colors were predominately green, white and saffron on early costumes; they avoided red because of
the association with the English. However, due to the availability of local dyes in ancient Ireland, red
likely was a traditional color. In recent time, all colors have come into use. Males' costumes are
more subdued.
Embroidery was relatively minimal on costumes in the early 1900s. However, it has steadily
increased in use and complexity. Designs were originally of traditional Irish origin, obtained from the
Book of Kells, Irish stone crosses, and chalices. The interlocking and continuous lines in the pattern
on the costume symbolize the continuity of life and mankind's eternity. Designers are now introducing
modern interpretations and patterns. Another relatively recent innovation is the use of silver and gold
thread in the embroidery. Interestingly, there is a justification for this because women's clothing in
pre-Norman Ireland contained silver and gold thread embroidery.
Early descriptions of dancers sometimes note they were barefoot. Soft
shoes were introduced
around 1924 for girls dancing reels, jigs, and slip jigs. For a while,
boys adopted their use also, but
had dropped them by the 1970s. Hard shoes have also evolved in style and
technology. Dancers
have adopted fiberglass toe tips and hollow heels. This change in
materials allows dancers' "clicks" of
their heels to become much louder, thus changing the emphasis and content
of many dances.
(Previously, nail heads were used and dancers inserted coins between sole
and toe tip to increase
loudness.) Bubble heels were invented around 1985 to augment clicking, but
they are now prohibited at feisianna. (Feis rules also require "authentic
Gaelic dress" but it is likely that neither
current boys' nor girls' costumes would have been seen in Celtic Ireland.)
Boys and girls competing at Irish dance competitions called feises wear
quite different dancing comptitions. The girls wear elaborately embroidered
dresses. The boys wear jackets, ties, knee socks and usually kilts of
contrasting colors. The costume also includes a sash called a ????? worn
down the back of the jacket. The boys wear short jackets looking like blazers
or sports
jackets. Some of the fancier ones have Celtic-styled embroidery on the
sleeves. Boys wear solid colored kilts for competitions, unlike the
plaid kilts worn by the
boys doing Scottish or Highland dancing. Green
and safron are common colors, but the boys dance in a wide variety of
brightly colored kilts as well as white and black ones. At the more advanced levels of competition, almost all of the boys will dance in kilts. Many boys performing at the beginning levels in American wear long black pants instead of the more traditional kilts. Boys and girls doing the Irish jig wear special blue or white pants sailor suits with caps. The competitors always wear long bell-bottomed pants, never short pants for jig competitions. All costumes are worn with either
hard shoes or soft shoes depending on the dance being performed. Boys always wear
kneesocks with the kilt, never ankle socks. The knee socks usually match either the jacket or kilt,
butbsometimes a third color is worn. Boys doing
Irish dancing also do not wear caps, another variance from Highland
Dancing. Irish dancers in Ireland and America also wear
suspender straps to keep their kilts in place for dancing. Kilts of course
do not come with belts. American boys in the 1970s often wore short pants
under their kilts,
especially made in the same material as the kilt. American boys in the 1980s often wore short pants under their kilts. The shorts popular in the 1980s were cut so short that they were unobtrusive. Modern short pants in the 1990s are to long long to be worn with kilts. Some schools in America allow the younger boys just beginning to peform in short pants and kneesocks during the summer.
Schools vary as to practice costumes. Some school set guidelines, but let the children
select their own practice clothes. Other schools have specific practice
uniforms. One boy describes his practice costume as a white T shirt,
navy cotton sweatshirt both with school logos, navy kilt made out of
machine washable material rather than wool, and navy knee socks.
Boys doing Irish dncing are enrolled in schools run by former
championship dancers. Most are very traditionally orinted and believe
in maintaing the tradition of the types of costumes they wore when
performing.
There are different kinds of performance costumes. Younger, novice dancers
often wear the school costume, although not all schools insist on one.
Some schools have a
standard performance costume, different ones for the boys and girls. This
is particularly common for the younger children involved. At feises
large numbers of competitors can thus be seen in the same costumes,
and their school is thus easily identifiable. Older children,
as they gain experience, are often allowed to wear their own individual
costumes for solo performances. Some schools require even experienced
dancers to wear the school costume for some competitions or public
performances. Many boys, as explained below, might have several
diiferent costumes. The younger
children at these schools are easily recognizable in their distinctive
school costume.
Others schools allow the students to choose their own distinctive costumes, even the younger participants.
Figure 3.--The kilt is almost always worn by the boys in pair dancing, in part because the girls tend to be more serious about the costuming. |
There are also pair costumes where 2-4 dancers dancing in pairs competitions wear coordinated costumes. The boys and girls of course have different costumes, but
often the colors match or are coordinated.
More experienced dancers have solo costumes, although the girls pay much more attention to this than the boys. Girls of course discuss their solo dresses endlessly with each other, their teachers and their mothers. The boys are less
concerned with such matters, but like the girls, for championship competitions
no longer wear the school costume. Their costumes are not nearly as elaborate
]as the girls, but their blazers might have a little embroidery and the sash
they wear over the shoulder can be quite elaborate. The girls when they tire
of discussing their own solo dresses also discuss the boys' costumes.
One Irish boy provided some details on costuming at his school. Often the older more experienced dancers use several different costumes.
One enthusiastic Irish dancer from Dublin describes his different costumes.
This appears to be common for boys who have danced for several years and
are serious about it. He has four different cos tumes and two types of
shoes. He kindly provided this description of his costumes:
New soloI have a new solo costume Grey Jacket, white shirt, maroon tie, maroon
kilt, maroon knee length socks, and maroon shawl with a lot of
embroidery of Celtic designs on it.
Old solo My old solo costume was a little worse maroon Jacket, white shirt, black
tie, white kilt, black socks, and shawl. This costume was a real pain as
the kilt got dirty if I sat down on a dirty seat or the floor.
School Costume: My Schools name is the Ryan School of Irish
Dancing. We wear black jacket, white shirt, green tie, green kilt,
white knee socks, maroon shawl with Celtic designs on it.
Group or couple costume: Black jacket, white shirt, dark
green tie, shafron kilt, dark green knee socks, and shafron shawl with
Celtic designs on it.
Dance shoes: I have 2 pairs
of hard dancing shoes, and 3 pairs of soft shoes, very much like ballet
slippers but with a reinforces toe, and a heel shock absorber, I prefer
dancing in the hard shoes as there is less leg strain.
There are no manjor differences between the costumes worn by boys in
in Ulster, the Republic, America, and other countries. American boys
seem to dance more in long black pants, but not for serious major
competitions. Boys in Ulster all wear solid colored kilts just as in
Ireland. Scotland boys, of course, wear plaid kilts rather than solid
colors. A few American Irish dancers wear plaid kilts, but it is not
common. Dancers in Ireland and Britain often have blazers with piped edges. I have also seen this in New Zealand. This is very rare in America.
Almost every boy beginning Irish dancing dislikes having to wear a kilt.
This is presumably they are, for all practical purposes, skirts plain and
simple. Having to wear a kilt probably discourages some boys from
participating in Irish dancing. This is particularly true in America.
Unless American boys have older sisters in Irish dancing, they probably
have not seen men or other boys wearing kilts. But then again, according
to an Irish source, its not usually the boy
that decides on his own that he wants to dance. Its normally parents who
decide to send them at 7 or 8 years of age to dancing school.
American boys doing Irish dance often do not tell their schoolmates
that they are Irish dancers. Few boys outside of the Irish community
have heard of Irish dance and many would tease a boy for dancing in a kilt.
I'm not sure if the same is true in Ireland itself where Irish dance and
dance costumes are much more familiar.
Figure 5.--Some feises provide fiddlers to provide live musical accompaniment.. The boys can request the fiddlers or sometimes accordianists to play faster or slower. |
American boys doing Irish dancing are shy about wearing kilts. There is a notable
difference between Irish feises and Scottish Highland gatherings. It is common
to see boys and men, both dancers and non-dancers, wearing kilts. At the
Irish feises, however, few boys wear their kilts to the feis. They
arrive in regular clothes, change before their competitions and then
chnge back to their regular clothes immediately after their final
competition. This is in part because the kilts and jackets are
expensive and boys being boys, they would get soiled or damaged. But
it is also because the boys are much more shy about wearing them than
their Scottish cousins. This may not be quite as true in Ireland, but
Irish boys participating in Irish dancing also report tha t they do not
like to wear the kilt, although some do not mind it for actual dancing
competitions.
Different schools have different approaches to get boys, especially
the younger beginners who are shy, used to wearing kilts. One Irish
dancer reports that when he began Irish dancving the school practice
costume was shorts and "t" shirts. About 1994, his teacher
introduced a practice costume with washable kilts, different from the
wool school competition costume. This has helped to get new dancers used
to the kilt which they will be wearing in actual competitions. She also
felt it was a ggod idea to have similar clothing for the practices.
Boys peform in either long black pants or kilts. The dancers have varying preferences. One Dublin dancer expains his preference for the kilt:
I am not a lover of the kilt, but after trying to dance in pants a number of times I found kilts give better movement. The number of pants I have split at wedding when called to dance is enough. The younger guys joining the dance school have a problem with the kilt. After a few weeks they get over it. I guess that’s why we have a dance class uniform the other reason for it that when you dance in a kilt, it falls a certain way, but with pratice one can make it fall rather than venting it up in the air. The girls have the same practice costume, although their kilts fasten the oppos ite way. For competition they wear very expensive colourful dresses.
Figure 6.--This dancer is displaying very complicated footwork in connection with his routine. |
One Irish dancer believes that most boys would all prefer long pants,
they had a real choice, although they would have to be really loose, or
very stretchy. In actual practice, for major competitions the boys have
little choice, especially in Ireland. (There seems to be more flexibility
on this matter in America). Feis officials allow boys to wear long pants
in competitions, but, according to an Irish dancer, almost all serious
competitors dance in kilts. It is traditional, and all the teachers and
judges are from the old school so the kilt is the order of the day. It would
be like girls wearing pants for dancing. It would be frowned upon. They
also say that it is easier to see the leg movements for judging. One
Irish dancer writes, "As far as I am concerned it is easier to dance in a
kilt." He then explains, "It’s the hanging around in one I do not like,"
apparently a widely held point of view among boys doing Irish dance.
Feis organizers insist that there is no difference in the judging as
to weather the dancer wears a kilt or black trousers. Dancers are,
however, not convinced of that. One dancer reports, "I have never seen
a guy to
dance at competitions here in Ireland perform in anything other
than a kilt." He stresses that the judges are always former dancers, who
are die-hard traditionalists and look critically on any changes to the
way they performed as children.
One might think that the popularity River Dance may have
made black trousers more popular and cause Irish dancers to adopt black
trousers, replacing the kilt as a costume. One Irish dancer reports
that this has not proven to be the case. He writes, "No way, Riverdance
is considered a showbiz version of Irish dance. Irish dance is
traditional. So the costumes will stay that way. If you see
what the girls wear in River Dance (black dresses) and compare
them to competition dresses you will see why."
Parents and dancers have describe the boys' dancing costumes at different
schools and discuss various ideas and concerns. Some like traditional styles. Others like
more color. Black trousers arepopular at some schools. Some mothers prefer the
more Irish look of kilts. Some boys are a bit shy about dancing in a kilt and
kneesocks. Cost is another major concern.
Boys need a great deal of help getting their dancing costumes just right. The contestants at feoses are greaded on their costume--noy only the costume itself, but how well they wear it. Usually mothers, sometimes dads, check to see the boys' hair is combed, the tie is right, the shirt tucked in, the knee socks pulled up, the shoes shined, and other small details. During the feis it is possible that the shoes get scuffed--so a lot of little details need to be checked. Often the boy is thinking more of his dance routien.
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