Figure 1.--.

A key concern in an assessment of Indian clothing, both ancient and modern, is climate. The majority of India - at least the populated areas - is tropical or subtropical. In moist hot climates, it is difficult to keep the skin dry all the day, especially during working or playing. A HBC reader reports, "My experiences stem from South India. I experienced such climate in Kerala about 10° North of the equator - in moist climate in Kerala and more dry climate in Tamil Nadu. I have heard that when in the 18th century British soldiers lived in this area, many died as a consequence of the too tight uniforms in fashion in those days. More died from overheating, permantly too much moisture on the body including growth of fungi and other parasites than of combat. The skin could not breathe and be kept dry. So the body was left in a totally unnatural and unhealthy condition." The dress of ancient Indians, still commonly worn in many areas, was much more adapted to the climate. Although much has changed in India, the climate has not changed and because the heat is such a major factor, this has been an importnt factor in the perpetuation of ancient styles.

Hot Humid Climate

A key concern in an assessment of Indian clothing, both ancient and modern, is climate. The majority of India - at least the populated areas - is tropical or subtropical. In moist hot climates, it is difficult to keep the skin dry all the day, especially during working or playing. A HBC reader reports, "My experiences stem from South India. I experienced such climate in Kerala about 10° North of the equator - in moist climate in Kerala and more dry climate in Tamil Nadu."

The British

A HBC reader tells us, "I have heard that when in the 18th century British soldiers lived in this area, many died as a consequence of the too tight uniforms in fashion in those days. More died from overheating, permantly too much moisture on the body including growth of fungi and other parasites than of combat. The skin could not breathe and be kept dry. So the body was left in a totally unnatural and unhealthy condition."

Climatic Adaptations

The dress of ancient Indians, still commonly worn in many areas, was much more adapted to the climate. The primary approach was to wear very loose clothings, especially the lungi and dhoti is and was always swung around the thighs and lower portion of the body in order to get at least a little cooling and drying wind to the legs and the body. Wearing such loose clothings even enhances the effect of the oil bath and renders life comfortable. Although the Keralites (like all humans everywhere) have to work hard on the fields, in fisheries, trade, craft, traffic and housekeeping, and assidiuously create much cultural deads in music, theater, writing, architecture, sculpturing, religion they live comfortably - mostly due to their modest life style and the habits of adaptation to the prevalent situation - through learning and acceptance. Only recent introduction of western style has changed this: narrow jeans pants, nylon shirts, socks and shoes etc, and working under difficult modern situations such as car repair with much dirty mineral oil etc.

Bathing

Another adaptation to the climate is bathing. Most (who can afford it) take a shower twice or thrice a day, This means: there is a bucket of water which is kept at a cool place and from which smaller amounts are poured over the naked body - without drying with a towel. The tool used is a kind of big mugg which you find in all bathrooms and toilets. A little higher luxury is the oil bath: coconut oil or better gingely oil is applied to the whole body (naked of course and including the hair) and let soak for half an hour or so. Then the surplus is taken off with a kind of perfumed clay powder and then showered with water which is warm or even hot anyway. This - under those very hard climatic conditions - is supposed to be a very good maintenance to the skin which feels like silk afterwards (also my experience). A HBC reader tells us, "Of course there are many more devices which I do not remember or might never have heard about."

Perpetuation of Ancient Styles

Although much has changed in India, the climate has not changed and because the heat is such a major factor, this has been an importnt factor in the perpetuation of ancient styles.

Children's Clothing

Since the environmental situation has always been the main factor to define the type of clothing, grown ups and children wore - and in many cases still wear - similar clothes. Only school uniform has created a new style like in many countries influenced by the British and Iberian culture: boys wear kakhi or blue shorts and white shirt, girls a similar short skirt and white blouse. This is true only for higher schools, not for everybody. New is that boys do not wear some kind of skirt to school but short pants, and girls´skirt is much shorter than in traditional - and still home- - clothing. In small village schools they wear ther common clothes: the girls a long skirt, a sari or the Punjabi dress plus blouse, the boys the lungi as usual.

Created: February 11, 2003
Last updated: February 24, 2003