Figure 1.--This English boy wears a flannel short pants suit in 1948. Flannel was still standard for suits and schoolwear at the time.

A variety of material or fabric are used for suits, both the jackets and trousers, in England. The most important material is wool and since World War II, wool blends with sythetic fibers. Silk might be used in expensive blends, but this was less important for boys' suiting fabrics. Flannel is an important wool fabric. Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was especially important for boys (19th and early-20th century). The origin of flannel appeas to be British, apparently Welsh. The word itself is believed to be Welsh. A flannel like fabric has been noted in Wales (16th century). The British origin is supported by French and German derivatives (flanelle and Flanell). Flannel production has been documnted in Britin (17th century). They appeared to have replaced the related older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as 'cottons' or friezes--the textile being produced in Wales. Flannel was made of fine, short staple wool. Flannel was being widely manufactured in Newtown, Montgomeryshire, Hay on Wye, and Llanidloes (19th century). Increasing production occurred with the spread of carding mills. These mills prepared the wool for spinning. This was the first step in the mechanized production of woollen cloth. The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury played a major role in marketing Welsh flannel. Fllannel was also produced in other parts of the United Kingsom (Yorkshire, Lancashire and Ireland). There were differences between the flannels, basically due to the grades of raw wool available locally. Initially the fabric produced was done in various shades white, blue, brown, and black, achieved by mixing the various natural wool colors. Chemical dyes were developed (late-19th century). Here Germany played a major role. Sulphur dioxide was used to lighten the shades. Flannel became a staple for bous clothing including schoolwear (19th century. We see mitures with silk and more commonly cotton being used (late-19th century. It is at this time that white flannel trousers became standard in sports, particularly cricket, until the late-19th century. Flannel was made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but in recent years is being made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. It was until after the mid-20th century the most widely used fabric for boys's suits and schoolwear. It was widely used suits an trousers throughout the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century. It was the most common fabric for blazers and still is. After World War II we see synthetic fibers being used in blends. Other fabric include mohair, tweed (including Harris tweed), worsted (at first pure wool), and a wide range of other fabrics.

Created: 8:30 AM 11/15/2017
Last updated: 8:30 AM 11/15/2017