Figure 1.--This CDV depicts an unidentified English boy wearing a short jacket with large lapels. We think this was a school style. Notice the ornate furniture. The photographer was Mrs Williams, a rare lady photographer, in Wolverhampton. We suspect he attemded a public school in or near Wolverhampton. We are not sure what schools are located there. The boy looks to be about 13 years old which means he was probably just beginning school. The CDV is undated, but looks to us like the late-1860s or perhaps early-70s. At the time we mostly see the boys wearing long trousers. Notice that the jacket and trousers do not match. We note suits that generally matched in the 60s. but schools may have lagged this basic fashion shift.

We see some boys with short lapel jackets. We see different styles. Some might have been called Eton jackets, actual Eton jackets might have loels--unlike the juveiile Eton jackets that became so popular in America. And we note them being worn without Eton collars. We notice some done as mock double-breasted jackets. Based on the photographic record, these short jackets were not one of the more common suit jacket styles. The short cut-away jacket was a much more common style. The length of these jackets and the size of the lapels were among the variations in these jackets. Cut-away jackets were also short, but generally did not have lapels. We think these short jackets were primarily a school style, perhaps English readers can confirm this. This jacket may be better described as a school unifirm style, but we can not yet conform that this was the excludive usage. Eton jackets may have been the precursor for these short jackets, but it is hard to describe them as Eton jackets when worn without the destinctive Eton collars. There were a number of public (private boarding) schools in Britain and many seem to have wanted a somewhat varied uniform. The examples we have found seem to date to the 1860s-70s, but our archive is limited and this is just a preliminary assessment. Notice that the jacket and trousers do not match in the example here (figure 1). We note suits that generally matched in the 60s, but schools may have lagged this basic fashion shift.

Prevalence

We see some boys with short lapel jackets. Based on the photographic record, these short jackets were not one of the more common suit jacket styles. The short cut-away jacket was a much more common style.

Styles

We see different stylesof short jackets with lapels. we have noticed designed to be worn open as well as jckets that buttonen-ip. Some might have been called Eton jackets based on the short jackets worn at Eton College, actual Eton jackets might have lapels--unlike the juveiile Eton jackets that became so popular in America. The jacket here has a kind of Eton look (figure 1). This might also be described as aingle-breasted jacket, but notice how it is made to be worn open. And we note them being worn without Eton collars. We notice some done as mock double-breasted jackets. We suspect thew may have been more, but we have only found two a this time. Our English archive is still growing. So far we have just found these two diiferent styles. Eton jackets may have been the precursor for these short jackets, but it is hard to describe them as Eton jackets when worn without the destinctive Eton collars.

Components

Many of the images we have found show the boys wearing vests waistcoats. We notice different kinds of pants. We see both long pants and shortend-length pants. Long pants were the most common. This rflects the fact that in the 1860s and 70s when we see most of thesejackets, long pants were common for school-age boys who were primarily wearing these suits. Notice that the jacket and trousers do not match in the example here (figure 1). We note suits that generally matched in the 60s. but schools may have lagged this basic fashion shift.

Characteristics

The length of these jackets and the size of the lapels were among the variations in these jackets. Cut-away jackets were also short, but generally did not have lapels.

School Style

We think these short jackets were primarily a school style, esoecially thise with an Etin look. Perhaps English readers can confirm this. This jacket may be better described as a school unifirm style, but we can not yet conform that this was the excludive usage.There were a number of public (private boarding) schools in Britain and many seem to have wanted a somewhat varied uniform. The Eton School style, however, was very influential.

Chronology

We are not yet sure about the 1850s as we have very few Dags and Ambros. . The examples we have found seem to date to the 1860s-70s, but our archive is limited and this is just a preliminary assessment. We have only archived a small number of images showing this style. We needed many more images before makeing any definiative assessments.

Created: 5:52 AM 9/28/2009
Last updated: 12:20 AM 5/7/2017