Figure 1.--These American children photographed about 1942 show the different styles of rainwear, hats and coats, that was worn by children. The boys wear short pants or knickers with ankle socks whch one boy appears to have tuned over into a cuff. The other boy wears dark sneakers the other boy leather lace-up Oxford shoes.

American boys have worn a wide variety of coats and jackets. Many like sailor styled reefer jackets appear to have been quite similar to European styles. Others such as the plaid lumber jacket appear to have been more American in origin. A popular style by thr 1920s were leather aviator jackets. Many short jackets, some with fur (or imination fur by the 1940s) collars based primarily on the basic styling of the popular aviator jackets. Duffle coats cut longer than jackets have also been popular, but I believe that thery were primarily an English style. In recent years a variety of heavily insulated, often brightly colored jackets and coats have appeared influed by ski styling. There have also been specialized coats, particularly the waterproof rain coat which appeared after the turn of the century.

Definition

Americans commonly use the terms 'coat' and 'jacket' interchangably. One defitition of coat is, "an outer garment worn outdoors, having sleeves and typically extending below the hips: a winter coat." A definition of jacket is, "A jacket is a garment for the upper body, usually extending below the hips. A jacket typically has sleeves, and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and less insulating than a coat, which is outerwear." while the terms are commonly used interchangable especially when used for a suit coat/jacket. Here both fashions nd perceotions have chnged over time. For example, a jacket hss been seen as aighter garment, but in recent years were see ski jackers which are not light garments. Formality is another matter. Clothing has become much more informal. Children no longer wear overcoats, meaning long, formal coats. we are going to use the destintion that coatswere liber nd more forml and tht jsckets re shorter and more informal.

Chronology

Cold wear outerwear changed over time. Ocercoats seem especially popular in he 19th century. In the 20th century we see a definite shift toward jackets. This means vaious styles of shorter garments. Some of the jackets wee very heavy iyems for cold weather. This is a little difficult to follow as mom's usually took off a child's cold weather outerwear for a studio portrait. And the school portraits which by the end of the centurty were becoming popular generally do not show heawear and winter obercoats. Coat styles shifted in the 20th century. We still see girls wearing overcoats, but not many boys. A good example is an Iowa school in 1909. Jackets became increasingly popilar in the 20th century gradually replaced overcots, even wuth suits, A good example is ??? Green in 1919. Agter mi-century especially during the 1960s, long overcoats basically went out of style for children. A factir here was the trend toward casualmclothes abd fewer boys wearing suits.

Styles

American boys have worn a wide variety of outerwear, both coats and jackets. Some of which had destinctive styling, the popularity of which varied over time. In addition to the types of outerwear there was also destinctive styles. Some of these garments were gender specific. Others could be worn by both boys and girls. One very popular style was sailor styling. Sailor coats could be worn by both boys and girls. Many like sailor styled reefer jackets appear to have been quite similar to European styles. Others such as the plaid lumber jacket appear to have been more American in origin. A popular style by the 1920s were leather aviator jackets. Many short jackets, some with fur (or imitation fur by the 1940s) collars based primarily on the basic styling of the popular aviator jackets. Duffle coats cut longer than jackets have also been popular, but I believe that thery were primarily an English style. In recent years a variety of heavily insulated, often brightly colored jackets and coats have appeared influed by ski styling. Younger children might cweaer plain, short cut overcoats, usually wih double-breasted styling.

Gender

The gender aspect of children's coats is somewhat complicated and like other fashion trends have varied over time. We have noticed coats and other outer wear that are both gender neutral abd gender specific. American boys at time have worn specialized coat and jacket styles. Here age is a factor. Yonger children have been more likely to wear geneal neutral coats. At other timese they wore garments that were not significantly differet in style, but perghaps with different color preferences. Sailor styling was a popular style for both boys and girls. We also see younger boys and girls wearing short overcoats, usually in light colors and double breasted styling. Coats are of course practical garments designed to keep the child warm. Thus they are among the gaments least influenced by fashion. No one wants a coat that it will not keep him warm. Fashion is important, but first anbd foremost the garmnent has to keep one warm. This is one reason why many coats are gender neutral. Styling is one matter, but some coats are essentially gender neutral, except for color.

Garments

We note many different types and styles of coats. This is a little complicated because some coats are also called jackets. Generally the heavier longer items are jackets. Overcoats are generally longer falling to about knee-lengh. Jackets are lighter and shorter. A heavy short garment can often be called both jackets and coats. A heavy sporty garment is often called a jacket rather than a coat. For example ski garments orusually called jackets and not coats. There have also been specialized coats, particularly the water proofed rain coat which appeared after the turn of the century. Most American boys by the 1920s had a rain coat. It was a necesity in the age when most boys walked to school. English boys might be safely given an umbrella, but American mothers realized that this was a mistaker as boys would use them for swordf fights and other wonderfully boyish devilment. At first the raincoat was a black rubberized garment, but by the 1940s colored versions appeared--at first yellow ones. A popular early style included matching headwear that completely envelopd the head. I believe that it originated with New England fishermen. This style, howrver, went out of fashion in the 1960s. The English ans Scottish approach of amoracks nevrer caught on in the States.

Conventions

Unless a child came from a wealthy family, he or she might have only one cold weather coat or rain coat. Thus they would have to be worn with both casual play clothes, school, or for formal occasions. One reader, for example, comments on figure 1, "The outfits have a thrown together look. The raincoat appears to be a dress-up garment but the shoes and socks seem casual. Could this be an effect of the war and shortages?"

Created: January 26, 2001
Last updated: 3:53 AM 9/18/2022