*** United States boys clothes: footwear chronology








United States Boys' Clothes: Footwear Chronology


Figure 1.-- This photo postcard shows a boy holding a toy gun with a little paper mache dog next to him. The message on the back dates the photograph to 1914. The portrait was taken at Parker's Rocco Studio, Ohio. Rather a rudimentary portrait for a studio. The boys wears black log stockings and strap shoes with his knickers suit. Strap shoes were still common for younger boys in the 1910s, but we don't commonly see them fpr boys old enough to wear knicker suits.

We note American boys wearing a range of different footwear. Footwear in the 19th century seems similar in both Anerica and Europe. We have only limited information on the early 19th century. We note mostly high-top shoes in the late 19th century. Some younger children wore low-cut strap shoes. Going barefoot was probably more common in America. We notice various styles of strap shoes and sandals in the early 20th century. They were at first worn by both boys and girls. Here there were social class factors involved. Sandals became less common for boys after World War I and the early 20s and do not reappear as a major style for boys until sports sandals in the 1990s. American and European footwear styles begin to significantly differ after World War I. The Briish school sandal never became popular in America. American sneakers did bot become popular in Europe until the 1970s. We do see American boys wearing sneakers in the 1910s and they begin to become more common in the 1920s. They were discouraged at scgool until well after World war II, but eventually become the primary style for children., especially boys. Most boys wore low-cut leather shoes by the 1920s, although high-top shoes were still worn in the 1920s.

The 19th Century

Shoes in the first half of the 19th century were made on absolutely straight lasts, meaning that there was no difference between right and left shoes. Thus shoes were not very confortable, especially a new pair of shoes that had not been broken in yet. Shoes were made in two widths to a size. There was a basic last which was was used to produce a 'slim' shoe. Shoe makers also produced 'fat' or 'stout' by placing a pad over the cone of the last creating more room for the foot. This was essentially the same way sandals were made in ancient times with only minor refinements over the centuries. Huge advances were made at mid-century. After much effort, an American cobbler Lyman R.Blake, invented the first successful machine to mechanize footwear production (1858). The machine sewed the soles of shoes to the uppers. Gordon McKay purchased thepatents and improved on them. This allowed the Federal Government to issue needed footwear to its soldiers during the Civil War even though many cobblers had joined the ranks (1861-65). Many Confederate solldiers had to fight barefoot. It is one reason that many boys preferred to go bvarefoot rather than wear uncompfortble shoes. We note American boys wearing a range of different footwear. Footwear in the 19th century seems similar in both Anerica and Europe. We have only lim1ited information on the early-19th century, but note mostly low-cut shoes. Something happened in the 1860s and a shift to high-top shoes began. We are not sure what was behind this change. We note mostly high-top shoes in the late-19th century. Some younger children wore low-cut strap shoes. The United States in the late-19th century was able to produce shoes more cheaply than in Europe and became a world leader in the production of footwear as it did with many other products. Going barefoot was, however, was still very common in America.

The 20th Century

American children continued to wear high-top shoes in the early-20th century. Laceups replace button shoes. We also notice various styles of strap shoes and sandals in the early 20th century. There were both ankle and instep strap shoes. The ankle straps disappeared after World War I. They were at first worn by both boys and girls, but soon became seen as a girl's shoes. Strap shoes even began to be called Mary Janes. Here there were social class factors involved. Sandals became less common for boys after World War I and the early-20s and do not reappear as a major style for boys until sports sandals in the 1990s. American and European footwear styles begin to significantly differ after World War I. The British school sandal never became popular in America. American sneakers did bot become popular in Europe until the 1970s. Saddle sholes also appeared, a destinctively American style. We see more low-cut oxfords after World War I in the 1920s, but they did not becomne the dominant style until the 1930s. There were a variety of different styles. The girls oxfords were similar to the boy's styles. Sturdy oxfords were standard schoolwear for both boys and girls. Girls had more options than boys including strap shoes and flats. Loafers were a popular preppy style in the 1950s and 60s. Noth boys and girls wore them. Penny loafers werea popular style. High top shoes peristed as a toddler style, usually done in white. We do see American boys wearing sneakers in the 1910s and they begin to become more common in the 1920s. They were discouraged at school and were seen as a casual style. This contginued to be the case until well after World War II, but eventually become the primary style for children, especially boys. The once basic sneaker becane available in a wide variety of styles abd became popular with girls as well.

The 21st Century








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Created: 5:52 PM 10/29/2007
Last updated: 7:51 PM 6/4/2013