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One of the two important Norfolk design elements were what box pleats, often paired. There were different approached to the vertical elements or pleats. They also varied in prominance. Some are barely noticable while others stand out. The well-made Norfolk suit had these vertical pleats on the front and continued on the back. We are not sure all boys' suits had the vertical pleats continued on the back. This is impossible to tell from the photographic record. Some jackets only had the vertical elements. We believe that these were reffered to as Norfolk jackets even without the belts.
Some had belts as well, but in the 19th century the vertical elements without the belts was the most common style were the most commom. In many suits the vertical elements were only hinted at, in others they were very pronounced. We note that by the 1880s in the United States that many jackets had vertical pleats or detailing which we believe in the influence of the Norfolk style which was becoming a major style for boys. The pleats were not only a design element, but added a degree of flexibility to the jacket. This was useful for a jacket designed for active outdoor pursuits. We are not sure why the vertical pleating was more common than the self-belting in the 19th century. We think that the pleats appeared fiest and the horizintal waist belt sudequently. We notice Norfolk suits with just the vertical pleats into the 1890s.
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