Figure 1.--This American boy from Elizabeth, New Jersey wears a classic blue serge suit for his First Communion, we believe in 1917. The suit was probably bought special for First Communion, but could then be used for his best suit. At the tome boys commonly wore suits to school.

Serge includes a variety of twill weave fabrics with a characteristic diagonal wale. This left characteristic diagonal lines or even ridges on both sides of the finisjed masterial. It was produced with a two-up, two-down weave. While today probably more associated with English woolen prtoducts, the terme "serge" has ancient origins and entered English through the French language after the Norman conquest. The Greek word s?????? (serikos) meant "silken" and was the base for the Latin serica which evolved into the Old French serge. Charlemagne's tomb contained a piece of silk serge dyed with Byzantine motifs. Presumably this was a gift from the Byzantine emperor to Charlemagne (about 800 AD). The term appears in English (14th century). The English serge was more associated with wool fabrics as silk was very expensive. Presunably the English serge was made with the same weaving technique. The emedieval econmy of England was based on exporting raw wool to the Low Lands where an advanced weaving industry developed. As a result of the the Norman Conquest and later the Hundred Years War, England had possessions in France. The principal English stringold was Calais in northern France. Much of the English wool exports went to a Royal monopoly at Calais (16th century). From there it was sold to weavers in northern France and the Low Lands. The French finally captured Calais (1558). This impeded the export of English wool and was a strong enducement to the development of a domestic English weaving industry. And here it should be noted that the weaving industry was a much more important economic activity than is the case today. And in the case of Britain would lead directly to the indudstrial revolution. The development of the English weaving industry was greatly prompted by the terrible European Wars of Religion, especially the Dutch War of Independence which devestated many of the great weaving towns in the Low Lands and towns to which the weavers sold their product. Calvinist refugees from the Low Countries included many skilled weavers who specialized in serge. The French Wars of Religion were also a factor in the growth of the weaving indudtry in England. Huguenot refugees from France included many silk and linen weavers. Modern denim is a cotton fabric with a similar weave to serge. The term is believed to have evolved from "serge de Nīmes" referingto the French weaving town of Nīmes. The modern term serge is specifically a smoothly finished worsted fabric used for suits. It was commonly used for boys suits in the late 19th and early 20th Century for boys suits, especially sailor suits. We have noticed many American and English garments made out of serge. The worsted serge fabrics were commonly used for military uniforms, suits, great and trench coats. Silk serge produced with rtge same weaveing procedure was commonly used for linings. Some serges are offered as French serge. This is a softer, finer weave. A French reader notes that it was also commonly used in France for winter clothing, incuding long and short trousers. A blue serge suit was a classic choice for an American boy in the early 20th century. A goof example is a Golden rule Store (priobably Penny's Norfolk knickers suit in 1922. It was made for boys 6-18 years old.

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Created: 12:29 AM 6/18/2009
Last updated: 12:29 AM 6/18/2009